CCV Mod Re-Visited
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 52
From: Sacramento Delta, CA
Current moves upstream behind obstacles (i.e., an "eddy"). So diagram "A" will actually push current into the tube opening (think hair flying forward on those in the front seat of a convertible with top down). (Or for more fun, watch a whitewater kayaker catching an eddy and immediately turning upstream to the safety of the backside of a rock in an otherwise ripping rapid.)
So, diagram "B" will not create the eddy at the opening of the tube. But it will create it below the opening of the tube where it wouldn't push current into the tube opening.
I don't know if this mod is a good idea or not, and I have to decide what to do soon before I re-install the dog house on my valve cover, but between the two "B" seems better.
I think the dog has it right.
(But I really am new to all this.)
So, diagram "B" will not create the eddy at the opening of the tube. But it will create it below the opening of the tube where it wouldn't push current into the tube opening.
I don't know if this mod is a good idea or not, and I have to decide what to do soon before I re-install the dog house on my valve cover, but between the two "B" seems better.
I think the dog has it right.
(But I really am new to all this.)
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
Hodgson, in comparison to your "eddy" theory. The "bilge" design thats incorporated into seadoos mainly..(i repair them), is a picture of type "A". The bilge works by vacuum. There 2-white post, atop the jetstream in the pump assy. With water passing over them, it creates the vacuum, resulting in, if any, water to be expelled out of the hull, and into the "stream".
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
Hey Tim, no need to apologize, man. We agree to disagree. I too, am learning as well, most of this, is "chinese' to me anyway, but how you interpreted/responded, made me think of how that "system" works, and somewhat in a similar fashion. I still cant grasp the fact that the air coming in thru the filter from the turbo, is not pressurizing the crankcase, considering, the ccv spigot is shoveled and directed toward the filter?
Hook it, I'll pull it.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,037
Likes: 4
From: Grand Lake, La.
Hey Tim, no need to apologize, man. We agree to disagree. I too, am learning as well, most of this, is "chinese' to me anyway, but how you interpreted/responded, made me think of how that "system" works, and somewhat in a similar fashion. I still cant grasp the fact that the air coming in thru the filter from the turbo, is not pressurizing the crankcase, considering, the ccv spigot is shoveled and directed toward the filter?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Hodgson, in comparison to your "eddy" theory. The "bilge" design thats incorporated into seadoos mainly..(i repair them), is a picture of type "A". The bilge works by vacuum. There 2-white post, atop the jetstream in the pump assy. With water passing over them, it creates the vacuum, resulting in, if any, water to be expelled out of the hull, and into the "stream".
- Water vs. air
- Very high pressure differential vs. almost no differential
- Moderate-to-High velocity vs. screaming velocity
As for "A" vs. "B", I would theorize that "B" should be flush with the exhaust pipe wall to reduce the chance of eddies from the tube stickin' in there. I would also think that you would want to smooth the edges inside the tube so a sharp edge won't "catch" some of the flow.
I wouldn't even try this unless I had a test configuration that could prove if it works or not. It's a whol' lotta misery if it ain't right.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 9
From: Wellington, Co
I will agree with BDK, because it works. I put a larger catch can, like on "Guzzles" mounted behind the drivers wheel well. Routed the hoses through it. Creates enough distance and a place for oil vapors to condense, back into the intake. Very very little liquid gets through.
Drain maybe once a month, no big deal. No more residue around the intercooler.
Pretty darn simple. About 30 bucks. Bought everything at hardware store.
Drain maybe once a month, no big deal. No more residue around the intercooler.
Pretty darn simple. About 30 bucks. Bought everything at hardware store.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,884
Likes: 180
From: Morgan Hill, CA
The OEM CCV goes to the inlet of the turbo which is usually at a slight vacuum. If you removed all your cac pipes and intercooler then you would know that all of that stuff was completely coated in oil that came from the CCV. Route the CCV to atmosphere. DO NOT HOOK UP TO YOUR EXHAUST IN ANY WAY to the CCV. The CCV needs to be able to breathe. Your exhaust is at a pressure. You will melt the line that goes to your CCV and blow your rear main seal or front seal if you attempt this. Not a good idea in any way.
Dwayne
Dwayne
Most people who bad mouth this mod have not actually done it. They just parrot it like it is true.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 4
From: Gary,Indiana
Well Bill you seem to have your mind made up to do your ccv mod to exhaust. And for the life of me I couldn't remember exactly how I did it the last time I had installed a ccv to exhaust but I did remember that I had used a Vibrant kit. Vibrant makes some nice stuff.
Vibrant Performance E-VAC Scavenger kits are dyno proven to pull up to 3" of vacuum from race motors, improving horsepower and reducing crankcase pressure.
Vibrant Performance ::.
Here is a photo of the correct way to install.
Stainless Steel E-VAC Scavenger kit
Vibrant Performance E-VAC Scavenger kits are dyno proven to pull up to 3" of vacuum from race motors, improving horsepower and reducing crankcase pressure.
Vibrant Performance ::.
Here is a photo of the correct way to install.
Stainless Steel E-VAC Scavenger kit
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 4
From: Gary,Indiana
Now they say you can get 3" of vacuum from race motors which turns high rpms and higher velocity more than a turbo diesel will ever turn. Now if you are running a 4" exhaust I am sure you will still be able to get a fair amount of vacuum to do the job. But honestly if you are running a 5" exhaust it might not have enough on the velocity to not be much help. But would still better than just venting it to atmosphere.
The last ccv to exhaust I did the I installed them 3" past the collector on v8 gasser with headers. I have also installed them into the collector on headers with no ill effects. Now I might be new to turbo diesels so please take that into consideration when I say I think you would be fine putting it about 36" back from the turbo. I wouldn't think you really need to go to the rear with it. Besides with lower velocities you might be better off staying towards the front. Actually it is hard to say when running a low rpm engine with a huge 4" or 5" exhaust.
