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Dog, wheres the clear line routing to? Also, what you just mentioned..."or you can and will blow oil out the seals", because, shortly after my ccv mod to atmosphere, thats when my dipstick flange sprung the dreaded oil pan leak.
those are some good links timmy....im going to draw a picture of what im planning when i get home to see what you guys think but after all that reading it seems that its not really that much of a problem as long as you get the angles correct and tie it in to the exhaust back by the rear axle and maybe use some copper pipe to dissipate the heat so as not to melt the routing hose.....i was also reading about the 6.4 guys doing this without check valves and it working very nice but it was more of a 65* angle instead of 45*.....any how im going to start gathering the goodies together to make this happen......more to follow....
I was thinking 30* instead of 45* would work better. It would give it a closer parallel plane to the exhaust and might create a scavenge affect, kinda like what the turbo does for it. Similar to plumbing fittings aka street T's or Y's...
I just bought some check valves for work from Mcmaster-carr and found they had a pretty large selection. Take a look, depending on pricing you might find something you prefer over the moroso kit- they aren't nicknamed Mcmaster-Card for nothing.
shortly after my ccv mod to atmosphere, thats when my dipstick flange sprung the dreaded oil pan leak.
Yikes! I just routed mine to atmosphere last week! The word "dreaded", can you elaborate please? Is this one of those problems that requires pulling the engine to fix (like the rusty oil pan)?
Yikes! I just routed mine to atmosphere last week! The word "dreaded", can you elaborate please? Is this one of those problems that requires pulling the engine to fix (like the rusty oil pan)?
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No, not at all Kel, unless you drop the nut insidethe oil pan, where its originally located
I believe riffraff sells the kit, to fix the leak, but mines not bad at all to worry yet. I'm not say'n that the ccv mod created the leak, but sure seemed coincidental, that right afterward, that oring started leaking?
Thanks Tim. I subscribed to that thread, just in case I need to find it again. I "think" I have all of my leaks fixed for now, going to go out and Simple Green the top side and bottom side, to do a good check.
Dog, wheres the clear line routing to? Also, what you just mentioned..."or you can and will blow oil out the seals", because, shortly after my ccv mod to atmosphere, thats when my dipstick flange sprung the dreaded oil pan leak.
Tim the clear line is plumbed back into the stock location on the intake. And honestly the oil pan at the dip stick could just be a matter of timing. In other words it might have started to leak even if you didn't do the ccv mod to atmosphere. But then again you can't say that the mod didn't cause it either.
Now one thing I forgot to touch on when you do the ccv mod to atmosphere it is very important that you make sure you keep your doghouse clean because a semi clogged doghouse will cause positive crank case pressure that can cause your problem. If your doghouse is clean you run less a risk of creating positive crank case pressure.
subscribing i hate my CCV going to atmosphere on the account that there are too many hippies where i live and one of them is bound to complain eventually.
LOL, Santa Cruz, I feel your pain Similar here, just south of you. Got biatched at for parking my truck in a compact spot at Trader Joe's, next to all of the Priuses (Prii?). I should have parked diagonal across two spots, and left it running. I won't apologize for my truck, I do plenty of other things that are green.
I spent a lot of time cleaning up my IC pipes, NO WAY CCV's going back in there. Mine's vented to atmosphere, pointing backwards. On the road, that should give me a pretty good vacuum. Idling, I guess not.
The turbo should be creating a (-) suction. If it was post turbo then yes (+).
huh, you'd think the way the tube is in the middle of the airpath, with the "deflect" facing the filter, that the incoming air, is ramming down the ccv house
Thanks for those links, timmyboy76. After reading all the material I've found so far, the consensus is as I invisioned: In order to get around the exhaust back pressure, the suggestions are to get waaay down pipe - this will work. The angle will work with a high-velocity flow crossing the added tube, but I stress high-velocity. There was a mention of blowing across a straw to draw water from a glass - try the same experiment while blowing gently. The stock exhaust will have more velocity than the 4", and either will have more velocity than the 5".
I really like how BadDogKuzz managed his, I'll see if I can make something similar to that.
alright so waaaay back on the exhaust itll be.....i was originally thinking of style "A" that way the exhaust couldnt possibly go up the tube.....but is "B" the proper way so to speak?
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