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Need help pulling 351w from 1987 e350

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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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Need help pulling 351w from 1987 e350

Pullin the motor out and it's tight... Any tips? Should I use a floor jack to push it up and over the crossmember? Everythings loose, any tips?

 
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 08:57 PM
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I've seen them pulled by removing the carburetor and using a plate of the opening with a hook. That gave just enough extra room to raise the engine over the crossmember.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 11:06 PM
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Ditto. I've only done a couple of engine swaps on vans and had to remove the carbs on both of them to get the engines out. If memory serves me right, I also had to remove the transmission cross member to give the engine/trans assembly enough up and down play.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:11 AM
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Carb is already out, I'm trying to pull the motor only and leaving the transmission. They are currently separated by about 2". I helped a guy pull another motor I just can't remember the angle of attack. I'm going out right now to give it another whirl.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 02:02 PM
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It's been a while since I pulled one an engine out of a van with the body still in place.

What I do remember doing, is once I had the engine hooked up to the hoist. I unbolted the engine mounts from the engine.

I think I might have also used a chain on the engine that was long enough to have the engine hoist hooked up in front of the engine. It wasn't fun but I didn't have to deal with the hoist not being able to lift high enough.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 03:31 PM
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Got it out! And almost got the new one in but ran into some difficulty... The torque converter studs do not reach through the flexplate... Is it possible the torque converter is in too far? I probably need a different flexplate
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 06:36 PM
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Swap the flexplate

Double check they are balances the same before you do so.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 06:39 PM
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Yeah I read somewhere that the aod flexplates swap to the C6... Let it be know that this is not the case!
 
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 08:18 PM
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Just make sure that your 'new engine' flexplate is the same weight as the 'old engine' flexplate.

They come in a few different weights. Its not matched to the transmission, its matched to the balance on the engine. I think older engines had 28.5, newer ones had 50. You can tel by looking, should be stamped on the flexplate. if you get it wrong the engine will let you know the first time you hit 2000RPM (When it tears its mounts apart with insane vibration).
There were also 3 different pitches for starter ring teeth.

Basically, there were 9 different types of flywheel for the 302. If the weight matches between your new and old engine, you are good to go.

Edit: oops; 351W. Carry on, never changed wieghts.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 06:48 PM
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Whew, what a pain... Chevys are much easier!

I swapped in the 302, let me say it takes a lot of effort to line up the flexplate and torque converter by yourself! Everythings bolted up, modified the 351 accessory brackets to accomodate the 302, turn it over and it won't start. It backfired through the carb a few times even though my timing was in a good area... I tried switching the wires to the 351W order and it fired right up! Turns out the 302 must have had a cam swap because it has the 302HO firing order. About a minute later I noticed the radiator was pissing coolant. Darn need a new radiator! Also the idle is not good, I checked for airleaks and the carb base gasket was leaking. I pulled it off and it was all burnt up from the backfires! I'll be picking up a new gasket tomorrow. I sure hope my intake manifold gaskets and valve seals are ok!
 
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