Removing my motor
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Removing my motor
There's a time soon where I might need to remove my motor from the truck. With my setup, this really is a big job and I am wondering if it can be made easier. The main issue is I need to remove the accessories from the front and then bolts from the transmission on the rear. That takes so much time and some of these are VERY difficult to get to. And lining up the flexplate is difficult as well. Since it's just me, the process of removing/installing the motor can take several hours.
That being said I am wondering if it would be easier (and possible) to remove the motor and trans together. I have a friend who made me a bracket that fits the the intake - https://i.imgur.com/BNBbemE.jpg
That steel is 0.106" thick and I gave him an intake gasket to get the holes in the right places.
What I was thinking is I could remove the front clip (front rad support and both fenders) and that would then allow me to remove the trans and engine together.
With that said, I am not sure...is this an OK or good idea? I am not sure if the bracket (which attaches to an aluminum intake) I have will be able to hold all the weight of the engine and trans.
Looking for thoughts/opinions/comments on doing this.
That being said I am wondering if it would be easier (and possible) to remove the motor and trans together. I have a friend who made me a bracket that fits the the intake - https://i.imgur.com/BNBbemE.jpg
That steel is 0.106" thick and I gave him an intake gasket to get the holes in the right places.
What I was thinking is I could remove the front clip (front rad support and both fenders) and that would then allow me to remove the trans and engine together.
With that said, I am not sure...is this an OK or good idea? I am not sure if the bracket (which attaches to an aluminum intake) I have will be able to hold all the weight of the engine and trans.
Looking for thoughts/opinions/comments on doing this.
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Lynnwood Wa.
Most of the time when I pull an engine the transmission comes out with it. It's easier to separate when out. But with pulling both comes other challenges of angles and clearances it's not impossible just watch everything as its coming up. If your going to take the core support and everything else off it will be cake but that's a lot of work in its own right. Pop the hood then disconnect all your vacuum lines and other misc. Hoses upper intake probably and get a balancer so you can adjust the angles as it is coming out and you shouldn't have to remove the front clip. To much work.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: SW Florida
I've seen on here before where people just pull the entire front clip. I think it's a great idea personally.
Something that I've used before when pulling the engine and trans together, is a load leveler like this one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1021
It helps balance the engine/trans combo and get it angled where you want it.
Something that I've used before when pulling the engine and trans together, is a load leveler like this one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1021
It helps balance the engine/trans combo and get it angled where you want it.
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Lynnwood Wa.
Load leveler not a balancer thanks Dixie. Removing the front clip would make it easy to pull out buy that's a lot of work when you can just with a little patience pull it out of the top and be done. On the other hand putting it back in is the tricky part by yourself.
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I've seen on here before where people just pull the entire front clip. I think it's a great idea personally.
Something that I've used before when pulling the engine and trans together, is a load leveler like this one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1021
It helps balance the engine/trans combo and get it angled where you want it.
Something that I've used before when pulling the engine and trans together, is a load leveler like this one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1021
It helps balance the engine/trans combo and get it angled where you want it.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 811
Likes: 1
From: West Central Southern MN
It is easier to take them apart when out, but IMHO you will spend the same amount of time and get just as frustrated taking out the front clip and fenders as you will unbolting the tranny. Since you have done it this way before, it should be a cakewalk even by yourself. I rope my cousin into helping me for the crucial alignment parts by bribing him with beer(in moderation during the work, and several following.)
If you do pull both, remember all of that weight is being held by the bolts in your expensive performer intake. Food for thought.
If you do pull both, remember all of that weight is being held by the bolts in your expensive performer intake. Food for thought.
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Yeah, this is something I am concerned about as well...which is why I gave the details of my bracket. What I don't know is if the bolts going through the bracket into the aluminum intake would be able to hold the weight of the motor and trans.
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Tuned
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Lynnwood Wa.
I've always pulled an intake bolt from the front of the motor and one from the back and put the equalizer leveler balance whatever you use on those two bolts. The intake bolts that go thru the intake into the heads.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: SW Florida
Oh sorry, I didn't even see where you mentioned that already! But yes you're welcome for the clarification. 
I would also do as Crewcabber said and let the heads take the weight of the pull. That is how I've always done it, and it's where factory lifting brackets are attached on engines that have them.
I would also do as Crewcabber said and let the heads take the weight of the pull. That is how I've always done it, and it's where factory lifting brackets are attached on engines that have them.
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Oh sorry, I didn't even see where you mentioned that already! But yes you're welcome for the clarification.
I would also do as Crewcabber said and let the heads take the weight of the pull. That is how I've always done it, and it's where factory lifting brackets are attached on engines that have them.
I would also do as Crewcabber said and let the heads take the weight of the pull. That is how I've always done it, and it's where factory lifting brackets are attached on engines that have them.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 368
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From: Virginia Beach/Wisconsin
Ok, got it figured out. Go to the dollar store and get a big bag of Bazooka Bubble Gum. Then two aisles over are the METAL (this part is VERY IMPORTANT) Coat Hangers. Lastly pick up some of that GREAT $1.00 DUCT TAPE. Then go home and watch THE RED GREEN SHOW on PBS. You'll have it figured out in NO TIME.