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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

351W Replacement Advice

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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 06:19 PM
  #1  
Chevy_Monza's Avatar
Chevy_Monza
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351W Replacement Advice

Good Day,

I've decided to drop a new rebuilt 351W in place of the tired smoking, overheating 351W currently occupping the engine bay of my 82 F150. This is my first time replacing any engine and I would like some advice.

It looks like there is alot room in the engine bay, so I could just unbolt the exhaust manifold and leave them hanging to the side and pull the motor out or should they be removed from the exhaust pipe altogether ? I assume it's easier to remove the motor with fan/Shroud, pump and pullies pulled ? But I can leave the Raditator in ?

Whats the easiest and/or safest way to pull the motor ? Chain to the intake manifold or remove the intake and chain to somewhere else ?

I believe the motor to be original, so I have also ordered new motor and transmission mounts ? I was also thinking of replacing the torque convertor ? (its a C6). Is this a waste of good money ? Is there anything else I should replace while I have the motor out ?

Any snags I should be looking for when replacing a 351W in an F150 ?

Many Thanks

Monza
 
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 07:20 PM
  #2  
Jimbare's Avatar
Jimbare
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From: oklahoma
you can pull the radiator and leave the accessories on the engine, that way you can pull it off and put it right back on. i would pull the exhaust off the manifolds and leave them on the motor. i use holes in the ends of the head to hook the chain on. 7/16 bolts instead of 5/16. unless the trans is acting up, i wouldnt replace the torque. the new mounts are a good idea.


jim
 
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 11:47 PM
  #3  
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From: Coutts Canada
What i do is that the alternater, power steering (ac compressor to if you have air) of and the battery as well, and i leave the power steering pump with bracket in the engine compartment. Then i unbolt the exhaust at the headers (only 2 bolts per side compared to 8), then take the shoud and fan off, disconnect the rad hoses and drain the block and remove the rad, disconnect all wires and remaining hoses at the motor, then unbolt the motor mounts, bellhousing bolts, if an auto take off the cover on the bottom/front of the tranny and unbolt the convertor, then take the carb off, duct tape the intake holes and put a carb plate (3/8 piece of flat steel with holes the same pattern as the carb and a place in the centre to hook a hoist to) to the intake, now hoist up to take weight of the tranny to seperate the convertor/clutch from the motor/tranny (make sure to suport the bellhousing with a jack of something), after seperated jack the motor out, you have to remove the hood to get it out, then reverse the process to install.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 09:40 AM
  #4  
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fellro86
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From: Marengo, Iowa
When installing, be certain the convertor is seated all the way into the pump, if not, you'll end up breaking the trans case at a minimum. The way to tell this is that your fingers should not fit between the converter and the trans body. Also, the converter only goe into the flexplate one way, so expect to trun it a few times to get aligned. You have to get them aligned before you can totally mate the trans and motor. This is one of my camplaints on the design, as the GM setup is much easier and nicer to deal with at this point. I recommend taking the manifolds with the motor. It isn't like a Chevy here, as I have rarely broken a bolt taking the exhaust loose.
 
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