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Installed my new 190AMP OEM alternator this AM. Hooked up my scan gage and took it for a test drive. Noted 11.3-12.1 VLT. Remembered the NAPA was around 13 VLT. Drove about 50 miles, no change.
Four hours later went out to play with scan Gage, VLT 11.3. After 15 min idle wrench light popped on, shut her off and tried to restart, dead battery.
Any ideas?
Installed my new 190AMP OEM alternator this AM. Hooked up my scan gage and took it for a test drive. Noted 11.3-12.1 VLT. Remembered the NAPA was around 13 VLT. Drove about 50 miles, no change.
Four hours later went out to play with scan Gage, VLT 11.3. After 15 min idle wrench light popped on, shut her off and tried to restart, dead battery.
Any ideas?
They may have sold you a bad alternator, I've gotten a bad one from NAPA before. I'd take it back and have it tested.
Yes, you are right. After three from NAPA I decided to up the ante and go for a big boy alternator, DC Power Engineering. Got the 190AMP. I'm thinking it's not the alternator. I did read somewhere that the alt pulley was smaller but I haven't measured it. That could affect belt tension. Belt looks good, has 150k it, man I hate to chage that thing
Was hoping it would be a simple swap. Wishful thinking.
Anymore when I buy an alternator I have it tested before I take it home just for that reason. You should be showing about 14 v if it's working right. I find it hard to believe it's the pulley, the tensioning pulley should compensate for that if thats the case.
I did measure the pulley dia, the original is 3" & the new is 2 1/2" which means appr 1.6" slack added. Thinking about adding 1/2" spacers.
I hate to take that thing back off.
DC Power Engineering,
Has spacers for it. I know it Sunday
but I would give them a call tomorrow
Did you get the upgraded cables ?
There was something about using the
originals along with the new ones.
You really should call them.
my thoughts were to use about 1/2" of washers to jack it up and add a little more belt tension. If that is not sat, I'll definitely call DC Eng'g.
Also, I thought OEM was original equipment manufacture "ORIGINAL". If there is something different about a cable that the mfg knows and does not relate to the buyer and the buyer is left on the side of the road.
Before I get excited, I need to at least give them a call.
I'll keep y'all posted.
while DC Eng'g is deciding what to do about the returnee, I'm still running my ole NAPA (#4). While taking my wife to a Dr appointment and in the rain, the ABS light popped on, never happens. I asked my wife to check the scan Gage and the report was 7.9 vlts. WOW!! Before I could get turned around things turn black then dead.
Call AAA, haul home expecting dead alternator. Charged both batteries fired it up. Alternator reads 14 vlts. Surprise. Road test never dropped below 13.7 vlts.
Don't think I fixed crap.
Is it possible for the alternator to self heal? I usually drive with the scan gage on my lap to keep an eye for such but since it was raining and on a back road I had my eye on the road.
Installed my new 190AMP OEM alternator this AM. Hooked up my scan gage and took it for a test drive. Noted 11.3-12.1 VLT. Remembered the NAPA was around 13 VLT. Drove about 50 miles, no change.
Four hours later went out to play with scan Gage, VLT 11.3. After 15 min idle wrench light popped on, shut her off and tried to restart, dead battery.
Any ideas?
Make sure your battery is taking a charge if not the alternator is working its self to death and blowing the rectifier or regulator. Good luck. Also the scan gauge is probably not that accurate. Mine is off by 1.5v.
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