1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Alternator upgrade

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Old 03-22-2016, 08:34 PM
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Alternator upgrade

I am seriously thinking about upgrading my 1G alternator to a 3G alternator in the next few weeks, question I have is, is there anywhere I can locate the proper double sheave alternator pulley?

I ask because if I obtain the alternator I will want to pull the pulley and swap it over at work so its a simple bolt in drop when I do it.
 
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:43 AM
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There was a discussion about alternator sheaves, and the needed crank pulley (with souces and part #'s) in Garys upgrade thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-dilemma.html
 
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:44 AM
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Guessing you want to stick with V-belts?

If so, a lot of the 80-86 trucks had the dual belt pulleys (my '86 does). Think I even have some extras laying around....not sure though.

If you want to eliminate belt squeal, get an alternator for a Taurus, as they have the "soft start" feature. The Mustangs did not have that and sometimes have a bit of a squeal at start-up if they need to put out a bunch of power right away.
 
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 81ChopTop
Guessing you want to stick with V-belts?

If so, a lot of the 80-86 trucks had the dual belt pulleys (my '86 does). Think I even have some extras laying around....not sure though.

If you want to eliminate belt squeal, get an alternator for a Taurus, as they have the "soft start" feature. The Mustangs did not have that and sometimes have a bit of a squeal at start-up if they need to put out a bunch of power right away.
Thanks for the reply. I was think on the soft start as i like to keep things stock for the most part. Will be running a v belt but ive been looking for the alternator ive lost the paperwork i had written out pointing which taurus alternators would be a bolt in without bracket modifications. I think it was a 93 to 95 taurus with a 3.8l v6 that is a drop in replacement.

Another thing i cant remeber if i thought about was the choke hook up i think splicing into the s wire would provide the same function as on the 1g.
 
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Old 03-23-2016, 01:48 PM
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3.8 Taurus of about that vintage is the 8.25" c-c mounting.
You still have to tap the adjuster bolt ear to 3/8-16 instead of M8x1.25.

Yes, you can pull choke power from the white and black wire going to the stator plug.
 
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:50 PM
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To go further on what ArdWrknTrk said, the hole that needs to be threaded is the perfect size for installing a Heli-Coil (no need to drill larger or anything). I used an alternator from a '95 Taurus on my 460 and it bolted right up. There were no threads in the adjuster ear as that car used a tensioner and the alternator bolts in.

Also, put an inline fuse on the main charge wire. I ended up using a marine circuit breaker.
 
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:55 PM
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'81ChopTop,

I'm pretty sure (depending on year) holes were either tapped 8-1.25 or unthreaded for the bolt to go clear through.

I will try to look up the different Lester #'s and applications.
 
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Old 03-23-2016, 06:10 PM
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You're probably right that some are tapped metric. Just happened the one I got wasn't, felt I got lucky on that one.

Just looked up what I got - 1995 Taurus with the 3.0 engine, 130 Amp. Oreilly part# 01-0204, $119.99, lifetime warrenty. The reason for using that one was the clocking position. Other peoples needs may vary on that.
 
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Old 03-23-2016, 07:25 PM
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That's what I planned on doing was just buying a new lifetime warranty alternator from either oreilly or advance or even napa.

I already planned on a 130/140 amp version using either a 100A or 150A mega fuse with a 8ga charge wire from alternator to the starter solenoid battery side.

I just could not remember what vintage Taurus I should have been looking for. Now that I know roughly what vintage I need that will work for me. It also is nice because I recently found out about the soft start alternators that wont spin the belt as it ups the output and its good to know the Taurus version is the one with this regulator. I shouldn't need more than 130/140 amps as this truck is bare bones with dealer A/C and LED interior lights and aftermarket Hella ECE headlights with headlight relay kit using silver star ultra 55/60w H4 bulbs.

I just figure I will do the upgrade sooner than later cause I upgraded recently to a pair of Apollo Pro 6" 100W halogen driving lights using h3 bulbs and even with the engine running there is a slight dim in my headlights flipping the switch on high beam.

Only thing that's holding me back is I like to prep everything at work so all I have to do at home is just simple bolt in. That's how I did my relay harness for my driving lights from KC as I didn't want to use their harness they supplied. With this in mind I would need to find a pulley for my alternator same as what my 1G has so I can do the swap on the 3G alternator I get then all I have to do at work is bolt it on and then make my wiring harness up for everything.



The article I found said that all 1G alternators are the same and that the 3G you need size wise would be found on the following.

Some '90
Any '91- '92
some '93-'99 non DOHC Ford Taurus.

I think the one I was looking at was 91 or 92 to eliminate the risk of obtaining the wrong one.
 
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Old 04-01-2016, 03:42 AM
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this might help maybe start at page 1
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...l#post13941298

I have a 86' F150 with the 4.9L , So I'm dealing with a 2G.
Do yourself a favor and run 4 awg instead of 8 awg also upgrade your battery terminals and pick yourself up a ANL style fuse I ordered the mega fuse block with a 175A fuse and it was not as cheap as ANL stuff

I pulled my alt off a 90 Taurus wagon
If your after the 130A you want the one with two holes the four holes is the lower amp one.

I went with 1awg welding wire and ran a new starter wire as well

 
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Old 04-01-2016, 03:47 AM
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one last thing, make sure your choke can handle 12V or you're going to have a bad time
my truck came with dual V-belt I just put a washer behind the pulley and it worked out fine
 
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