Ignition Intermittent Problem
#1
09-06-2012, 08:19 AM
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Ignition Intermittent Problem
I've got a 1996 F250, 7.3L, 4x4, manual transmission. My problem is that my truck will have times where it will start right up and times where I have to release the clutch, turn back the ignition and try again for many times. What does this mean? I am at a loss of words and not well versed in these trucks. It seems like some intermittent problem, I just changed the starter earlier this year. Please help, thanks!
#2
09-06-2012, 10:01 AM
Logistics Pro
Have you checked the nuteral safty switch located on the clutch master cylinder push rod, located under the dash? When it fails to crank over, does it make any sound, or is it just dead? Is the bushing on the cluch rod, where it attaches to the clutch peddle cross over rod good? Intermittent problems can be a beach to hunt down sometimes.
#3
09-06-2012, 10:27 PM
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Have you checked the nuteral safty switch located on the clutch master cylinder push rod, located under the dash? No, I have not checked that. Should it be obvious what is wrong? or what exactly am I looking for on the push rod? When it fails to crank over, does it make any sound, or is it just dead? It's just dead, I noticed today that if I pump the clutch up and down rapidly it eventually starts up. Is the bushing on the cluch rod, where it attaches to the clutch peddle cross over rod good? I have not checked this yet. I did have a problem starting a few weeks ago that I could not get it into reverse and someone on this forum told me it had to do with a bushing on the clutch somewhere. I never checked out that bushing as I was told I could get it into gear if I placed it in 1st or 4th gear first, then into reverse. I took the easy way out. I suppose it's time to change that bushing :-) Intermittent problems can be a beach to hunt down sometimes. Agreed!
I'll respond back when I get it fixed, hopefully the things you mentioned will solve the problem.
#4
09-06-2012, 10:39 PM
#5
09-06-2012, 11:21 PM
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I don't know exactly what this means as I am ignorant of most of the terminology and not sure exactly where the neutral safety switch is on my truck. Any pictures or youtube videos? :-)
#6
09-07-2012, 01:23 AM
What's being described is actually not the neutral safety switch; your truck doesn't have one. That's only on automatic-equipped trucks. You have a clutch start switch. It's what keeps you from starting the truck without pushing the clutch pedal.
But that's actually a "secondary" problem. If you're also having trouble with getting into gear at times, it's because the clutch isn't fully disengaging. The disengagement issue and the starting issue are both outcomes of the worn bushing you've read about. That bushing connects the clutch pedal arm to the pushrod on the master cylinder. When it wears and gets sloppy, the pedal arm doesn't push the pushrod all the way. This does two things - it keeps the switch from working properly, and it doesn't open the clutch all the way, making it difficult to put the tranny into gear.
This is all up under the dash, near the firewall, to the right of the brake pedal. (Yeah, even though the clutch pedal is left of the brake pedal, the mechanism is _right_ of the brake pedal; kludgy design on Ford's part...) If you slither down under the dash and work the pedal with your hand, you'll quickly see what the moving parts are, and will probably see the worn bushing and the sloppy action.
Here's what I did for a fix on both our trucks:
I trimmed off the "clips" of the bushing, put the lever arm and bushing in place, and put a drill stop collar, 7/16" size, on the end of the part of the arm that engages the pushrod. (Well, actually, I replaced the bushing with a short piece of brass tubing, but trimming the bushing works too.) Sorry, no pic of the original setup, but as said, if you just get up under there and look, you'll find the parts and will get a good look at the original bushing.
But that's actually a "secondary" problem. If you're also having trouble with getting into gear at times, it's because the clutch isn't fully disengaging. The disengagement issue and the starting issue are both outcomes of the worn bushing you've read about. That bushing connects the clutch pedal arm to the pushrod on the master cylinder. When it wears and gets sloppy, the pedal arm doesn't push the pushrod all the way. This does two things - it keeps the switch from working properly, and it doesn't open the clutch all the way, making it difficult to put the tranny into gear.
This is all up under the dash, near the firewall, to the right of the brake pedal. (Yeah, even though the clutch pedal is left of the brake pedal, the mechanism is _right_ of the brake pedal; kludgy design on Ford's part...) If you slither down under the dash and work the pedal with your hand, you'll quickly see what the moving parts are, and will probably see the worn bushing and the sloppy action.
Here's what I did for a fix on both our trucks:
I trimmed off the "clips" of the bushing, put the lever arm and bushing in place, and put a drill stop collar, 7/16" size, on the end of the part of the arm that engages the pushrod. (Well, actually, I replaced the bushing with a short piece of brass tubing, but trimming the bushing works too.) Sorry, no pic of the original setup, but as said, if you just get up under there and look, you'll find the parts and will get a good look at the original bushing.
#7
09-07-2012, 07:58 AM
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What's being described is actually not the neutral safety switch; your truck doesn't have one. That's only on automatic-equipped trucks. You have a clutch start switch. Thanks for the clarification. It's what keeps you from starting the truck without pushing the clutch pedal.
But that's actually a "secondary" problem. If you're also having trouble with getting into gear at times, it's because the clutch isn't fully disengaging. The disengagement issue and the starting issue are both outcomes of the worn bushing you've read about. That bushing connects the clutch pedal arm to the pushrod on the master cylinder. When it wears and gets sloppy, the pedal arm doesn't push the pushrod all the way. This does two things - it keeps the switch from working properly, and it doesn't open the clutch all the way, making it difficult to put the tranny into gear.
This is all up under the dash, near the firewall, to the right of the brake pedal. (Yeah, even though the clutch pedal is left of the brake pedal, the mechanism is _right_ of the brake pedal; kludgy design on Ford's part...) Thanks for this clarification. If you slither down under the dash and work the pedal with your hand, you'll quickly see what the moving parts are, and will probably see the worn bushing and the sloppy action.
Here's what I did for a fix on both our trucks:
I trimmed off the "clips" of the bushing, put the lever arm and bushing in place, and put a drill stop collar, 7/16" size, on the end of the part of the arm that engages the pushrod. (Well, actually, I replaced the bushing with a short piece of brass tubing, I'm assuming you placed brass tubing in there for it to last longer? Is this correct? but trimming the bushing works too.) Sorry, no pic of the original setup, but as said, if you just get up under there and look, you'll find the parts and will get a good look at the original bushing.
But that's actually a "secondary" problem. If you're also having trouble with getting into gear at times, it's because the clutch isn't fully disengaging. The disengagement issue and the starting issue are both outcomes of the worn bushing you've read about. That bushing connects the clutch pedal arm to the pushrod on the master cylinder. When it wears and gets sloppy, the pedal arm doesn't push the pushrod all the way. This does two things - it keeps the switch from working properly, and it doesn't open the clutch all the way, making it difficult to put the tranny into gear.
This is all up under the dash, near the firewall, to the right of the brake pedal. (Yeah, even though the clutch pedal is left of the brake pedal, the mechanism is _right_ of the brake pedal; kludgy design on Ford's part...) Thanks for this clarification. If you slither down under the dash and work the pedal with your hand, you'll quickly see what the moving parts are, and will probably see the worn bushing and the sloppy action.
Here's what I did for a fix on both our trucks:
I trimmed off the "clips" of the bushing, put the lever arm and bushing in place, and put a drill stop collar, 7/16" size, on the end of the part of the arm that engages the pushrod. (Well, actually, I replaced the bushing with a short piece of brass tubing, I'm assuming you placed brass tubing in there for it to last longer? Is this correct? but trimming the bushing works too.) Sorry, no pic of the original setup, but as said, if you just get up under there and look, you'll find the parts and will get a good look at the original bushing.
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#8
09-07-2012, 09:49 AM
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don't forget the relay (solenoid) on the passenger side fender. I have had 3 of these go intermittent in the last 2 months. acted lust like a bad neutral safety switch. the last one was on my '99 service truck last week while I was in [phoenix so i just swung by a ford dealer and changed it in their parking lot.
#9
09-07-2012, 01:06 PM
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Man, do I feel like a douche for starting a new thread on this very same thing. Perhaps I should keep more up to date on the board. Anyhow, not to hijack this thread, but I did a write up on this fix (madpogue's idea) in mine if anybody wants to take a look.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-fix-pics.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-fix-pics.html
#10
09-08-2012, 10:43 AM
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Man, do I feel like a douche for starting a new thread on this very same thing. Perhaps I should keep more up to date on the board. Anyhow, not to hijack this thread, but I did a write up on this fix (madpogue's idea) in mine if anybody wants to take a look.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-fix-pics.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-fix-pics.html
Here is the installation youtube link: CLUTCH PEDAL FIX FOR FORD TRUCKS - YouTube
#12
09-22-2012, 09:35 PM
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I bought a permanent repair joint from ebay...
FORD Clutch Rod End PERMANENT Repair powerstroke too. | eBay
I have not installed it yet, it's got good reviews.
FORD Clutch Rod End PERMANENT Repair powerstroke too. | eBay
I have not installed it yet, it's got good reviews.
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Cody Chapman
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07-03-2012 08:08 AM