clutch safety switch
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 169
Likes: 6
clutch safety switch
95 ford F150 w/ 302 and a 5 speed
I have the pivot point on my clutch rod break off, I am in the process of doing the hyro clutch/heim joint mod but have a question.
The clutch safety switch is not very well fixed to the fire wall, it just kind of sit there, because of this the clutch rod does not stay horizontal. When pushing on the clutch the rod moves up slightly and causes the rod to flex or bend. I am assuming this is why the original eye loop failed and broke off. Any suggestions on how to get the safety switch to mount better to the fire wall?
I have the pivot point on my clutch rod break off, I am in the process of doing the hyro clutch/heim joint mod but have a question.
The clutch safety switch is not very well fixed to the fire wall, it just kind of sit there, because of this the clutch rod does not stay horizontal. When pushing on the clutch the rod moves up slightly and causes the rod to flex or bend. I am assuming this is why the original eye loop failed and broke off. Any suggestions on how to get the safety switch to mount better to the fire wall?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 793
Likes: 2
From: Vernon, BC
The clutch safety switch simply rides on the clutch rod. It is not attached to the firewall, at least on my truck it's not. The rod will appear to flex or bend when the clutch is depressed because of the pivot action of the pedal. If your clutch rod eye broke off I suspect it's because the bushing inside the clutch rod eye wore out and the pivot going through the eye wore the eye out. They can wear out fast. My clutch master cylinder was only a few months old and the bushing was already wore out and the clutch rod eye was already beginning to elongate when I bought my truck.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 169
Likes: 6
Hmmmmmm, interesting. I did see that there was a small amount of play at the pedal pivot point. Was going to look into some new bushings but decided that this (rod) was a priority. I see your point, the rod itself seems pretty flimsy, I wonder if by adding the metal heim joint I am only asking for a failure later on. Do you still have a plastic rod or is changing it out to metal the way to go?
thanks
thanks
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 793
Likes: 2
From: Vernon, BC
I have the Heim joint on mine now and it's working very well. From what I've read on here the heim joint fix is considered a permanent fix and I haven't read a single thread about the heim joint failing.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: New York
To the OP... This era of trucks seems to be more prone to starting problems than typical of vehicles this old. I've been chasing starting problems for awhile now and still haven't got things 100% reliable. Given that, my plan is to just eliminate the neutral start switch (short the circuit), and reduce by one the potential points of failure. I have enough confidence in myself NOT to start the vehicle without my foot on the clutch.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 793
Likes: 2
From: Vernon, BC
The clutch rod swing arm is a press on system. The groves are cut into the arm during installation. When installing the heim joint it is easy to mount the clutch arm so it is "short" for the rod stroke. That's what happened to me and rather than trying again I replaced it with new. It's been working fine ever since.
I don't know what year your truck is however the pedal box is different on pre 92 trucks. You may need a different kit. The pre 92 trucks sometimes also needed a firewall reinforcement due to cracking of the firewall. It flexed too much when the clutch was pressed and fatigued over time. Ford redesigned the firewall and pedal box starting in 92.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 8
having read through this i have to wonder whether a previous owner did some fancy engineering. i have never heard of a plastic clutch rod and the clutch safety switch shouldnt be attached to the firewall in any way.
pics ?
pics ?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 169
Likes: 6
I iwll get some picts.......having a bad day. I have seen a few plastic ones on the tutorials on installing a Heim joint so I dont think it is a backyard engineer mistake, I could be wrong. I have given up for the day, cant seem to get the bitch to bleed I have a soft all the way to the floor pedal after replacing the master cylinder.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: New York
The bushings come as a kit and include new bushings for the brake pedal too. Part number for mine - F3TZ-2C342-A I also ordered the Clutch rod bushing - E69Z-7526-A and the Clutch rod swing arm - E7TZ-7A554-A
The clutch rod swing arm is a press on system. The groves are cut into the arm during installation. When installing the heim joint it is easy to mount the clutch arm so it is "short" for the rod stroke. That's what happened to me and rather than trying again I replaced it with new. It's been working fine ever since.
I don't know what year your truck is however the pedal box is different on pre 92 trucks. You may need a different kit. The pre 92 trucks sometimes also needed a firewall reinforcement due to cracking of the firewall. It flexed too much when the clutch was pressed and fatigued over time. Ford redesigned the firewall and pedal box starting in 92.
The clutch rod swing arm is a press on system. The groves are cut into the arm during installation. When installing the heim joint it is easy to mount the clutch arm so it is "short" for the rod stroke. That's what happened to me and rather than trying again I replaced it with new. It's been working fine ever since.
I don't know what year your truck is however the pedal box is different on pre 92 trucks. You may need a different kit. The pre 92 trucks sometimes also needed a firewall reinforcement due to cracking of the firewall. It flexed too much when the clutch was pressed and fatigued over time. Ford redesigned the firewall and pedal box starting in 92.
1987 - 1991 F-Series Clutch Pedal Bushing Replacement
Also found this video which is more focused on adding heim joint mod.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 85
From: San Diego
I just replaced my clutch safety switch yesterday.
It goes on the clutch rod. The new Ford Motorcraft one is about $60. Part no. Motorcraft SW5993
Ford no. 1C3Z-11A152-AA
PM me OP if you have questions.
It goes on the clutch rod. The new Ford Motorcraft one is about $60. Part no. Motorcraft SW5993
Ford no. 1C3Z-11A152-AA
PM me OP if you have questions.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 169
Likes: 6
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-Mast...ty!63901!US!-1
look a this link for the plastic tip of the push rod. I have it fixed/installed, I am now in the process of bleeding the clutch.........
look a this link for the plastic tip of the push rod. I have it fixed/installed, I am now in the process of bleeding the clutch.........
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 793
Likes: 2
From: Vernon, BC
I wish I could help you with bleeding your clutch master cylinder. However I don't know how to bleed one. Maybe YouTube or hopefully someone here will chime in with instructions.
I noted on one of the video's on the heim joint that the pre 92 clutch rod is adjustable. My 92 clutch rod is not adjustable. If you think yours is too short maybe double check that you have the right one for your application and year of truck.
I noted on one of the video's on the heim joint that the pre 92 clutch rod is adjustable. My 92 clutch rod is not adjustable. If you think yours is too short maybe double check that you have the right one for your application and year of truck.