clutch safety switch - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

clutch safety switch

  #1  
Old 01-10-2019, 04:45 PM
patrickg450
patrickg450 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 46
patrickg450 is starting off with a positive reputation.
clutch safety switch

95 ford F150 w/ 302 and a 5 speed

I have the pivot point on my clutch rod break off, I am in the process of doing the hyro clutch/heim joint mod but have a question.

The clutch safety switch is not very well fixed to the fire wall, it just kind of sit there, because of this the clutch rod does not stay horizontal. When pushing on the clutch the rod moves up slightly and causes the rod to flex or bend. I am assuming this is why the original eye loop failed and broke off. Any suggestions on how to get the safety switch to mount better to the fire wall?
 
  #2  
Old 01-10-2019, 06:51 PM
Ddaybc's Avatar
Ddaybc
Ddaybc is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Grand Forks, B.C.
Posts: 649
Ddaybc is starting off with a positive reputation.
The clutch safety switch simply rides on the clutch rod. It is not attached to the firewall, at least on my truck it's not. The rod will appear to flex or bend when the clutch is depressed because of the pivot action of the pedal. If your clutch rod eye broke off I suspect it's because the bushing inside the clutch rod eye wore out and the pivot going through the eye wore the eye out. They can wear out fast. My clutch master cylinder was only a few months old and the bushing was already wore out and the clutch rod eye was already beginning to elongate when I bought my truck.
 
  #3  
Old 01-11-2019, 05:44 AM
patrickg450
patrickg450 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 46
patrickg450 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Hmmmmmm, interesting. I did see that there was a small amount of play at the pedal pivot point. Was going to look into some new bushings but decided that this (rod) was a priority. I see your point, the rod itself seems pretty flimsy, I wonder if by adding the metal heim joint I am only asking for a failure later on. Do you still have a plastic rod or is changing it out to metal the way to go?


thanks
 
  #4  
Old 01-11-2019, 05:47 PM
Ddaybc's Avatar
Ddaybc
Ddaybc is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Grand Forks, B.C.
Posts: 649
Ddaybc is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by patrickg450 View Post
Do you still have a plastic rod or is changing it out to metal the way to go?


thanks
I don't know what you mean by plastic rod. Everything on my pedal box and clutch rod is metal including the clutch actuator rod . The only thing non metal are the bushings. FWIW, I also changed my bushings on the pedal box. My clutch is now nice and smooth.

I have the Heim joint on mine now and it's working very well. From what I've read on here the heim joint fix is considered a permanent fix and I haven't read a single thread about the heim joint failing.
 
  #5  
Old 01-12-2019, 09:58 AM
DPDISXR4Ti
DPDISXR4Ti is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 1,326
DPDISXR4Ti is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Originally Posted by Ddaybc View Post
I also changed my bushings on the pedal box. My clutch is now nice and smooth.
Are the bushings an off-the-shelf replacement part or more of a DIY fabrication thing? I have a whole clutch replacement/overhaul project slated for Spring. Just trying to get everything lined up now.

To the OP... This era of trucks seems to be more prone to starting problems than typical of vehicles this old. I've been chasing starting problems for awhile now and still haven't got things 100% reliable. Given that, my plan is to just eliminate the neutral start switch (short the circuit), and reduce by one the potential points of failure. I have enough confidence in myself NOT to start the vehicle without my foot on the clutch.
 
  #6  
Old 01-12-2019, 02:58 PM
Ddaybc's Avatar
Ddaybc
Ddaybc is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Grand Forks, B.C.
Posts: 649
Ddaybc is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by DPDISXR4Ti View Post
Are the bushings an off-the-shelf replacement part or more of a DIY fabrication thing? I have a whole clutch replacement/overhaul project slated for Spring. Just trying to get everything lined up now.
The bushings come as a kit and include new bushings for the brake pedal too. Part number for mine - F3TZ-2C342-A I also ordered the Clutch rod bushing - E69Z-7526-A and the Clutch rod swing arm - E7TZ-7A554-A

The clutch rod swing arm is a press on system. The groves are cut into the arm during installation. When installing the heim joint it is easy to mount the clutch arm so it is "short" for the rod stroke. That's what happened to me and rather than trying again I replaced it with new. It's been working fine ever since.

I don't know what year your truck is however the pedal box is different on pre 92 trucks. You may need a different kit. The pre 92 trucks sometimes also needed a firewall reinforcement due to cracking of the firewall. It flexed too much when the clutch was pressed and fatigued over time. Ford redesigned the firewall and pedal box starting in 92.
 
  #7  
Old 01-12-2019, 03:14 PM
joey2fords's Avatar
joey2fords
joey2fords is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,231
joey2fords is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.joey2fords is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
having read through this i have to wonder whether a previous owner did some fancy engineering. i have never heard of a plastic clutch rod and the clutch safety switch shouldnt be attached to the firewall in any way.
pics ?
 
  #8  
Old 01-12-2019, 06:04 PM
patrickg450
patrickg450 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 46
patrickg450 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I iwll get some picts.......having a bad day. I have seen a few plastic ones on the tutorials on installing a Heim joint so I dont think it is a backyard engineer mistake, I could be wrong. I have given up for the day, cant seem to get the bitch to bleed I have a soft all the way to the floor pedal after replacing the master cylinder.
 
  #9  
Old 01-12-2019, 06:08 PM
Skip1970's Avatar
Skip1970
Skip1970 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Alaska Land of the Free
Posts: 14,558
Skip1970 has a superb reputationSkip1970 has a superb reputationSkip1970 has a superb reputationSkip1970 has a superb reputationSkip1970 has a superb reputationSkip1970 has a superb reputationSkip1970 has a superb reputationSkip1970 has a superb reputationSkip1970 has a superb reputationSkip1970 has a superb reputationSkip1970 has a superb reputation
man that sounds crazy.
 
  #10  
Old 01-12-2019, 09:13 PM
DPDISXR4Ti
DPDISXR4Ti is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 1,326
DPDISXR4Ti is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Originally Posted by Ddaybc View Post
The bushings come as a kit and include new bushings for the brake pedal too. Part number for mine - F3TZ-2C342-A I also ordered the Clutch rod bushing - E69Z-7526-A and the Clutch rod swing arm - E7TZ-7A554-A

The clutch rod swing arm is a press on system. The groves are cut into the arm during installation. When installing the heim joint it is easy to mount the clutch arm so it is "short" for the rod stroke. That's what happened to me and rather than trying again I replaced it with new. It's been working fine ever since.

I don't know what year your truck is however the pedal box is different on pre 92 trucks. You may need a different kit. The pre 92 trucks sometimes also needed a firewall reinforcement due to cracking of the firewall. It flexed too much when the clutch was pressed and fatigued over time. Ford redesigned the firewall and pedal box starting in 92.
I have a '91, so last year of the brick nose. I found this site with some good info, although it suggests there's a different setup for the ZF, so not sure if some/all doesn't apply to a M5-equipped truck.
1987 - 1991 F-Series Clutch Pedal Bushing Replacement

Also found this video which is more focused on adding heim joint mod.
 
  #11  
Old 01-13-2019, 12:05 PM
marksman76
marksman76 is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 91
marksman76 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I just replaced my clutch safety switch yesterday.
It goes on the clutch rod. The new Ford Motorcraft one is about $60. Part no. Motorcraft SW5993
Ford no. 1C3Z-11A152-AA
PM me OP if you have questions.
 
  #12  
Old 01-13-2019, 12:13 PM
patrickg450
patrickg450 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 46
patrickg450 is starting off with a positive reputation.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-Mast...ty!63901!US!-1



look a this link for the plastic tip of the push rod. I have it fixed/installed, I am now in the process of bleeding the clutch.........
 
  #13  
Old 01-13-2019, 12:18 PM
marksman76
marksman76 is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 91
marksman76 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I believ the black part is just a plastic coating on the rod.
It seems my previous owner had that replaced also., So my Heim fix is on hold for now
 
  #14  
Old 01-13-2019, 12:23 PM
patrickg450
patrickg450 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 46
patrickg450 is starting off with a positive reputation.
ok thanks for the help......I am wondering if perhaps the new rod is not long enough since I am having bleeding issues.
 
  #15  
Old 01-14-2019, 11:22 PM
Ddaybc's Avatar
Ddaybc
Ddaybc is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Grand Forks, B.C.
Posts: 649
Ddaybc is starting off with a positive reputation.
I wish I could help you with bleeding your clutch master cylinder. However I don't know how to bleed one. Maybe YouTube or hopefully someone here will chime in with instructions.

I noted on one of the video's on the heim joint that the pre 92 clutch rod is adjustable. My 92 clutch rod is not adjustable. If you think yours is too short maybe double check that you have the right one for your application and year of truck.
 


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us About Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.