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I have a 95 F150 4x4 with autolocking hubs. I am thinking about carrying a replacement set of manual hubs incase something goes wrong at the wrong time.
What usually goes wrong with the autolockers?
What is a good replacement? The local parts store had Warn Manual Hubs for around 50$. (I went to their site and it says that a spindle nut kit is also required.
Sometimes you do need the conversion kit. Steve83 will probably be around shortly to confirm.
I would recommend just replacing the autos, don't worry about trying to fix them when you are up to your hubs in mud. No pun intended.
Auto hubs work on a clutch type system. The axle has to turn and create force in the hub for the clutch to engage. Atleast, that is the way I understand it. You have to get the vehicle to roll for the 4 wheel drive to work.
Now, if you get stuck, when you try to go backwards, the hubs, from what I understand, unlock, and then lock again. You cannot "rock" a truck with auto hubs out of a hole.
Get the Warn Premium hubs, they are all metal. Go ahead and change them. With manual hubs, you can engage the hubs, run down the road, and if you need 4by, engage the transfer case. Do not run on dry pavement for very long with the hubs engaged, as in like 60 miles. A few miles won't hurt.
Thanks for the reply. I have an 84 with manual hubs and it is a pain walking around the vehicle every time you want to engage and disengage the hubs. I guess the reliability is worth it. How much were the premium locks? When they say a new spindle nut is required I assume that they are talking about the nut that holds the bearing in the hub.
I assume that the running with the hubs engaged will eventually give you that terrible growling and vibration that I have when my 84 is locked and the 4WD is not engaged. Probably time for two sets of manual locking hubs and a behavior change.
For a half ton, I think we paid about $65/pc at DesertRat. Unfortunately, I have the 1 ton front end and they were like $115/pc. Monsters.
We run our blazer quite a bit with the hubs engaged, it doesn't make any noise. Check you front driveshaft u-joints. Even though the t-case isn't engaged, your driveshaft will be under a reverse load. It can make it make noise.
I know it is a pain, but from what I understand the autos aren't as strong as the manuals. I went from a vehicle with "auto" hubs, to one with manuals. NO doubt when the manuals are engaged. Always wondering if the autos were.
I don't really know about the spindle nut. Wait a few hours, I am sure that steve will be around. He's a guru on alot of these.
I like Warn or the Mile Marker lockouts. Warn is my first choice.
Depending on where you are at in PA, I could probably give you a few places to look for hubs. You can check online, any Warn distributor should honor the warranty if you have a problem. Save ya self 8% (or whatever PA's tax is)
I called the Warn customer service number. $79.70 for the regular and $102.14 for the premium. I also have to get the spindle nut kit for $51.56.
I think I saw the Warn manual hub locks at Advance Auto for $50. It was probably the regular set on sale.
My fear is that I will be 8 hours down a logging trail in Quebec on a fishing trip and have the auto hubs fail against a muddy hillside road and have to survive on fish and blueberries until someone finds me.
I stopped by the Advance Auto and they have the Premium for $89 and the standard for $59. The only mystery here is that the parts guy says that you do not need the spindle nut kit. His thoughts were that the spindle nuts were only changed to satisfy the mechanics that make assumptions based on your locking devise as to what spindle nut you have. He stated that ford dealerships had installed Warn premium manual locks replacing autolocks without the spindle nut change.
Anyone have a experienced based answer with the 95 autolocks with the 2 1/2 inch round socket spindle nut being replaced with Warn premium manual locking hubs?
All that info is in the pictures in the Brakes & Hubs photo album in my sig link. You can also see how to pack the hub for minimal contamination in extreme wheeling. This is the "conversion kit", and you need 2 sets.
What would be the install order? Nut/Washer/Nut to replace the rare 95 bearing nut in your picture?
If so, what do I tell the parts guy about his 95 bronco autolock replacement without installing the conversion kit? He mentioned that you would need another person to pull the axle/spindle out to install the C washer. What is his exposure with this setup?
I was interested in his personal exposure to problems with his vechicle if he did the install without the kit. If this will lead to long term damage or malfunction. If it is possilble to install them but it leads to long term damage he should not tell people they do not need the kit.
Do you know why the kit is needed? Is it that the manuals have less back pressure on the adjusting nut? Does the kit act as a spacer to line up the manual locks?
Originally posted by TwoF150 ...if he did the install...
I'm not following you. Is the '95 YOUR truck or his? Is he a parts guy or a mechanic? If you're replacing auto hub locks with autos, you don't need a conversion kit because you're not converting anything. The kit is just the normal parts Ford installed behind manual hub locks - you have to have them if you're swapping in manuals since your autos didn't come with them.
I thought you might be able to share some insight into what would happen if you installed the manual locking hubs without the kit.
The statement that you do not need the kit to replace the autolocking hubs with manual locking hubs is coming from the parts guy who said that he had replaced his autolocking hubs with manuals without the kit.
My 90 with autos has the lock rings and washer already.I think only the model years with the 3 screw caps and the funky lock ring need the replacement kit.
cajunbronco is right - only the autos with 3 screws in the cap need the kit. Manuals won't fit over the mechanism that hold the hex nut behind 3-screw autos.