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2001 F350 the auto/locking hub on the passenger side looks to be roughed up, it won't turn, the text is wore off. Also the vacuum to that hub is missing. The drivers side is like new.
I'm not sure I understand how these function but I think if they are in the auto position and you flip the switch on the dash the 4x4 will engage at the wheels with the aid of vacuum, if in Lock position they don't need the aid of vacuum.
So my question is... if I find a used auto/lock hub can I manually put them in the lock position and have 4x4 when I flip the dash switch? And not need to worry about the vacuum line?
2001 F350 the auto/locking hub on the passenger side looks to be roughed up, it won't turn, the text is wore off. Also the vacuum to that hub is missing. The drivers side is like new.
I'm not sure I understand how these function but I think if they are in the auto position and you flip the switch on the dash the 4x4 will engage at the wheels with the aid of vacuum, if in Lock position they don't need the aid of vacuum.
So my question is... if I find a used auto/lock hub can I manually put them in the lock position and have 4x4 when I flip the dash switch? And not need to worry about the vacuum line?
Yes but everything is turning inside which is OK except it takes about 1 mpg to turn it all. I lock them for the winter around here but we get 103" of snow per year.
Not sure or you don't know?
And if you don't mind a couple hours work, you can swap to manual hubs from Warn or Mile Marker and get rid of all the vacuum hassle. Mine has Warns on it. Then you can also take care of all the HVAC problems that will probably show up in the future because of vacuum leaks.
And if you don't mind a couple hours work, you can swap to manual hubs from Warn or Mile Marker and get rid of all the vacuum hassle. Mine has Warns on it. Then you can also take care of all the HVAC problems that will probably show up in the future because of vacuum leaks.
How much work to switch to manual hubs?
Also is there a set number of shims/washers behind the snap ring on the axles?
How much work to switch to manual hubs?
Also is there a set number of shims/washers behind the snap ring on the axles?
Not very difficult at all. You'll need some snap ring pliers and a "hub nut socket" if you plan to service you wheel bearings, but you don't need to take anything off but the hub workings. Just put whatever shims come out back in it.
For me, manual hubs is what I'm used to. Just prefer not to leave them locked all the time.
Looking at the Mile Marker 449 do you know if I need any additional parts? Read some where a conversion kit was needed then also read where it was not needed???