ARP Head Stud Installation Procedure

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Aug 13, 2012 | 12:01 PM

BeerCan500

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From: Ft. Worth

ARP Head Stud Installation Procedure

Hello Everyone, After much searching and reading hundreds of posts I think I have come up with a plan to turbo my 86 6.9. I think I am going to do it by performing the minimum required and by using a used turbo. My problem is...Just what are the minimums required to turbo this thing? I am confident the engine is in good enough shape to do it without going "whole hog".

So, in my mind the minimums are...

1. Used wastegated turbo...and pyro...and exhaust system...
2. Much as I hate to...New IP pump and injectors...
3. Head job with new inconel 7.3 valves, seals, etc...
4. ARP Head Studs and 7.3 rocker assembly...
5. And of course...new gaskets where needed...

But, I do not quite understand what it takes to use ARP Head Studs....Does that mean drilling the block and heads to accomodate the studs? What else has to be done to use head studs?

Finally, sorry for long post and so many questions...but I would be thankful for all comments, suggestions, and answers to my questions. I am just trying to be smart, economical, and efficient.

Thanks

Aug 13, 2012 | 12:10 PM

RacinNdrummin

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From: Maple Valley, WA

Head studs are a "bolt in" affair... Literally, you just screw them into place...Start from the middle bolts and work in a counter-clockwise pattern in steps (Not sure off top of my head what the steps for 6.9 studs are)... Id give them an extra 10-15lbs as extra insurance in one final step, as long as you dont break any studs, your set to go. Some prefer to go linearly through the studs after all is said and done.

Aug 13, 2012 | 12:11 PM

'94IDITurbo7.3

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why do you want to use the 7.3 heads on a 6.9? if you wan't to use the 7.3 studs on a 6.9 then you would have to drill and re-tap the holes to allow for the bigger studs. you do know that 7.3 studs are like 2x's the $$$ of 6.9 studs righ?

Aug 13, 2012 | 12:14 PM

RacinNdrummin

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From: Maple Valley, WA

Quote:

Originally Posted by '94IDITurbo7.3

You cant drill the 6.9 block for 1/2" studs, the threads interfere... The jury is still out on whether 9/16 studs will work, but I plan on finding out here VERY shortly... That would equate to the ultimate IDI block...

Aug 13, 2012 | 12:25 PM

'94IDITurbo7.3

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RacinNdrummin

That would equate to the ultimate IDI block...

a 6.9 block with 7.3 sized studs?

Aug 13, 2012 | 12:54 PM

BeerCan500

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From: Ft. Worth

Sorry for confusion on the heads

Hey guys...see how confused I am about the heads and studs....I am going to use the original 6.9 heads. I thought I could use the 7.3 valves and rocker assembly on the 6.9 heads and I am still unsure about the head studs for the 6.9 heads so I can use a turbo.

Thanks

Aug 13, 2012 | 01:04 PM

BeerCan500

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From: Ft. Worth

Lets try again

Hey guys, maybe I should have asked my questions this way...

What is exactly required to prep a good running 6.9 engine so it can be turbo'd?

Thanks again

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Aug 13, 2012 | 01:27 PM

RacinNdrummin

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From: Maple Valley, WA

Quote:

Originally Posted by '94IDITurbo7.3

a 6.9 block with 7.3 sized studs?

No, you can't install 7.3 sized studs in a 6.9 block, the threads will interfere when you re-tap to 1/2". You have to make the jump to 9/16" studs and we really don't know if the meat in the block is sufficient for studs that big... It measures out ok, and looks like it may work, all that's left to do is try it...That's what I'm going to do here shortly...

Aug 13, 2012 | 01:30 PM

#10

RacinNdrummin

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From: Maple Valley, WA

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeerCan500

Hey guys, maybe I should have asked my questions this way...

What is exactly required to prep a good running 6.9 engine so it can be turbo'd?

Thanks again

You already have the right idea in your first post, just keep on that path... 7.3T valves/rockers on the 6.9 heads will work just fine. No mods to run studs...Just use the 7/16" studs and you'll be fine...

Aug 13, 2012 | 02:02 PM

#11

BeerCan500

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From: Ft. Worth

Turbo my 6.9

Ok thanks guys...I guess I just worry to much about blowing out head gaskets or worse! I read another post from Dave S. that talks about his works ect...ect...and others about doing this. Maybe if I just turbo it and keep the boost below 10 and keep an eye on the pyro I will be ok. Reason being...I don't think I will ever pull my 10,000lb 5th wheel over the west coast or east coast mountains again, just here in the mostly flatlands so I think the 10 boost or less will be enough horses for me. At least it will keep my truck from crying when it sees a hill...LOL...

Thanks

P.S. Let us know how your drilling comes out RacinNdrummin

Last edited by BeerCan500; Aug 13, 2012 at 02:05 PM. Reason: none

Aug 13, 2012 | 03:04 PM

#12

hairyboxnoogle

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BeerCan500

Mine rarely sees over 7-8 and i never have smoke, not even a haze with a maxed stock pump. IMO anything over 10-12 with a stock pump is way overkill. Granted, i havent dyno tested this but just real world experience, wastegate it where the egts stay the coolest at WOT and you have the sweet spot between enough air and too much air. The more boost, the hotter the air, thus hot exhaust, not enough air, too much fuel, hot exhaust. The stock and aftermarket turbos for these engines were typically wastegated (if wastegated) to 7.5-9lbs.