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Power window ground

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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 05:32 PM
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Power window ground

Passenger side power window would not go up, consistently anyway.

So I found that's it's a ground issue (the red and black wire) now... Where is it grounded at?

Also my left rear blinker/brake light is not working and seems to be a ground issue.

Related?

If not related can I just patch into the red/black wire w a jumper ground?

Thanks for any help
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 05:35 PM
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P.S.
When I ground the wire, the window does operate correctly from the passenger side but the driverside switch does not work for the passenger side. Only the driverside.

Also It does not fix the tail light issue so I assume they are unrelated but thought I'd ask.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 07:48 PM
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Sounds as if you have a bad drivers side switch for the passenger window. The switches reverse the current polarity for the window motors. The rear brake and turn signal are not related to the window problem. If the tail light works, and not the turn signal, I would look at the bulb. If niether work the ground may be curroded.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 10:17 PM
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Ok I'll start with the driver side switch tomorrow...

The tail light does work but I've put two new bulbs in, with the same result.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 11:49 PM
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Check the power wires for the brake light, especially the square 4 wire connector near the rear bumper on the drivers side frame rail. Pull the connector apart to see if there is any corrosion on the pins.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 12:25 AM
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I just swaped the fuel tanks so that very well may be the problem... Thank you for the help
 
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 08:10 PM
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Ok so still no luck on window...
Driver side has a red/black that is hot when in up position, yellow/blk that is hot in down position... How do they need to be on the passenger side?
Is there a color diagram as to where each wire needs to go in the passenger side block?
The window was broken when I got it so it's safe to say its been tampered with.

Thanks again for any help
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by halaferd
Ok so still no luck on window...
Driver side has a red/black that is hot when in up position, yellow/blk that is hot in down position... How do they need to be on the passenger side?
Is there a color diagram as to where each wire needs to go in the passenger side block?
The window was broken when I got it so it's safe to say its been tampered with.

Thanks again for any help
What year is your truck, and is it a club cab?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 06:56 AM
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Haha wow I just realized I didn't give that info, sorry.
It's a 91 f250 ext cab, so just the two doors.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 05:23 PM
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Ok, I got the windows working... Red/blk wire was broke in the bundle between the door jam on the driver side.
Now the left rear marker light... The green/orange wire is not hot, all the way bk to the steering column. The other 3 marker light wires are tho.
Wire separated from turn signal switch in steering column? It does not work for the hazard, left turn signal, or brake.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by halaferd
Ok, I got the windows working... Red/blk wire was broke in the bundle between the door jam on the driver side.
Now the left rear marker light... The green/orange wire is not hot, all the way bk to the steering column. The other 3 marker light wires are tho.
Wire separated from turn signal switch in steering column? It does not work for the hazard, left turn signal, or brake.
I have seen that plastic disc that the blinker lever attachest to, that is under the steering wheel, cause a no brake- blinker light problem. But in the one I saw it was both sides not working. The metal contact "buttons" were corroded.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 06:38 AM
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Well I'm pulling the steering wheel today so we shall see haha... The truck is still in "project" status so time isnt an issue haha.
I post results.... Or more questions tonight
 
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 09:49 PM
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Ok so it was the signal switch... One of the "buttons" that makes contact w the wires on the switch had somehow gotten resesed and wouldn't make a connection. Tried to fix it with a dab of sauder but it failed. Ordering new one next week.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 04:15 PM
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The old plastic connectors and switches can create some aggravating issues for sure. Plus add some corrosion on the contacts and you get the electrical issues.

Not quite the same as your window problem, but it is very common for the window motor to work fine, but the window does not go up, or is very jerky. The problem is the drive pins in the gearbox. The nylon round pins are supposed to transfer the torque, but they disintegrate. I have replaced mine with 1/4 inch nuts and it works great. Just the hassle to remove the P/W motor. Rest is easy to disassemble the cover plate and immediately obvious how and where the drive pins were. Keep this in mind if your wondows start going down not so smooth. It indicates the pins are failing.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 06:47 PM
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Ok! The driver side is getting a little slow, so thats an option for down the road. Thanks
 
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