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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 09:57 AM
  #31  
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From: Stevens Point, WI
The shimming for rotors is to get them to ride centered in the caliper bracket. Not a huge deal and no one here should have to worry about it using stock parts. It is more of a aftermarket thing.

If there is a wobble in the rotor it is shot or needs to be cut. There should be no shimming done to "straiten" a rotor runout. If after cutting or new rotors there is still excessive runout the hub face needs to be cut.

I wouldn't recommend the rings/shims. It is a bandaid.



If you have rotor runout the hub should be checked and cut true (if not to much is needed to be taken off).

 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 07:42 PM
  #32  
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From: Puget Sound
Originally Posted by jwhopson
I haven't changed a ton of brakes over my lifetime, mostly do what you said tugley - just uninstall and install. Above they talked about offsets, etc... and I am trying to get rid of a strong "shimmy" and strong pulsation while braking - so I will try anything .

Ah... back to the slide pin thing. My slide pins siezed and wouldn't allow the caliper to stay centered on the rotor. Shimmy, shudder, hot brakes, pull, weak braking... I had it all. The tattle on this one is more wear on the inside face of the rotor.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 01:51 AM
  #33  
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From: Man Cave
Originally Posted by DISLFVR
Do you tow, haul heavy? Do they fade at all ? Reason I'm asking is I haven't ordered them yet.
No I did not tow anything when I had em. Installed the pads with new slotted rotors and thought they just needed more time to bed in. They didnt, the compound is just to hard. The initial bite was frightening and you had to get alot of heat into them before they came on and even then I was totally un impressed.
 
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