Is the runout radial or lateral? Can indexing be acheived by "clocking" the rotor aroud the hub?

Back to topic, I felt the oem brakes are pretty stout, up to the task of towing. I also use a decel tune for the big hills, so I avoid the worst situations. Currently I'm running Brembo pads and they are strong but like a little heat.

 

Lateral. Yes.

 

I believe I'm going with the Hawk Super-Duty pads when the time comes. It's not often I take the truck and camper in the mountains but when I do I want to be able to stop without gritting my teeth,lol..

 

I had mine installed on rear yesterday and it still pulsates. It may be my front rotors. Good thing I did not pay for my last

 

I have done hundreds of brake jobs on our trucks. I will say this, the harder the pad the better the vehicle will stop but at the same time the harder the pads the less longevity you will get out of the rotors.

I used to get the hard good performing pads for our trucks but then new rotors were needed with just about every brake job. Now we get the cheap soft pads and the rotors last for up to 4 brake jobs on the trucks.

I can't speak for the cryo treated rotors with the hard pads though. Not sure how well the cryo holds up to the hard pads.

 

I recently put on EBC sport rotors and EBC yellow stuff pads on the front. Strange, butt they actually make a little air noise thats hard to hear unless the windows are open. The instructions said to expect the noise, it's the air that moves across the dimpled and slotted rotors. They do work great and I am happy with the much improved braking. Braking would be even better if I had them in the rears also.

 

I have done a search but couldn't find anything, could someone explain the process of lateral indexing the rotor? I am purchasing new rotors and hoping my local napa has the shims if needed - but not sure how to test/validate if shims are needed. I always assumed the pads/caliper made up for any differences. Thank you in advance.

 

Uuuhh??? The calipers float to center on slide pins... I just took the old rotors off and put the new ones on without "calibrating" anything. Is anybody else familiar with this? I've done my own brakes for years and this is a new one on me.

 

I haven't changed a ton of brakes over my lifetime, mostly do what you said tugley - just uninstall and install. Above they talked about offsets, etc... and I am trying to get rid of a strong "shimmy" and strong pulsation while braking - so I will try anything .

 

I would try the ebc rotors from clay.

I bought my yellow stuff pads and power slot Cyrus from him earlier this year

Im not overly pleased with the powers lots. Already getting a shimmy after only about 6k miles. I do tow a trailer everyday though.......

 

I installed the powerslot rotors and EBC yellow pads 2 weeks ago and I can tell a big difference in braking. They seem to grab harder and no brake fade. I can stop on a dime now. Ill be doing the same on my excursion in 3 weeks.

 

i use autozone life time pads and rotors, and i have towed a 18000 lbs trailer and they will stop even when the trailer brakes quit.
there not the cheapest but there good.

 

For move then a decade there have been articles in pro magazines about checking rotors for runout. I done training seminars over this time period for pro mechnaics on doing this procedure. Automotive service manuals from the auto manufacturers have had within their pages about checking for runout of the rotors and indexing them to make sure they are within spec's. The information, including video's on YouTube are out there.

Here is one video although I do not endorse using any shims to correct a rotor.

Chapter 4: Using the Dial Indicator - YouTube

As I've said before, the Superduty spec is 0.0015" for both the front and rear discs.

 

ran those for a couple months and hated em. Was like braking with wooden blocks. Went to the HPS and they were alot better. Strong progressive braking.

 

Do you tow, haul heavy? Do they fade at all ? Reason I'm asking is I haven't ordered them yet.