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MII sway bar installation questions...

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Old 06-09-2012, 02:01 PM
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MII sway bar installation questions...

I am in the final stages of installing my TCI MII front end. The rack and pinion kit came with a sway bar, but no instructions or diagrams as to how to install it. I gave it my best guess. Please have a look at the pics below to see if I did it right.

One concern I have is the bolts and nyloc nuts that go thru that aluminum block. It seems the bolts are a hair too short so the threads don't seem to fully engage into the nyloc part of the nuts. There are split lock washers under the heads of the bolts taking up about 1/8" or so. Are the lock washers necessary with the nyloc nuts on the other end? I installed them because they were in the kit. I am thinking I should get bolts that are 1/2" longer.

There are rubber/plastic bushings that go inside the aluminum blocks. One end of the bushing has a collar that sits on the outside of the block, the other end sits flush with the block. I guessed that those aluminum locking rings go on the non-collared side of the block. Am I right?

What else do you see? Any other problems?

Tyler

Driver's side...


Passenger's side...


Passenger's side...


Passenger's side...


Passenger's side...


Driver's side...


Driver's side...
 

Last edited by Tyler S; 06-09-2012 at 02:35 PM. Reason: clarity
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Old 06-09-2012, 05:31 PM
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I suppose that might work as long as it doesn't interfere with the suspension travel....
Normally the bar mounts under the frame rails in front of the cross member and the end links attach from above the lower control arms.....so it's not hanging down below.
But that sway bar almost looks like it should be mounted that way......I dunno....

Maybe contact the mfg to find out what they recommend ? Every suspension setup is probably slightly different....
 
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Old 06-09-2012, 05:42 PM
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Yeah all must ii installations I have seen have sway bar located in the front. A good explanation would be a browse through junkyards like the ford rangers are all in the front too.
 
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:43 PM
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You have the sway bar installed correctly but you are right TCI instruction sheets really suck, I have called them over and over on that very subject.

Make sure that the sway bar does not bind on the lower A arm from full down to full up, I have found that some kits do. If it bind's up, call TCI and they can send you a longer A arm link that allows for full motion.
 
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Project-55
You have the sway bar installed correctly but you are right TCI instruction sheets really suck, I have called them over and over on that very subject.

Make sure that the sway bar does not bind on the lower A arm from full down to full up, I have found that some kits do. If it bind's up, call TCI and they can send you a longer A arm link that allows for full motion.
Thanks Project 55 and everyone else. I based the entire installation on this pic I found on the internet:



Project, does my description of the locking rings or retaining rings sound right? I installed them on the opposite side of the mounting block from the collar of the bushing.

Tyler
 
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Tyler S
Thanks Project 55 and everyone else. I based the entire installation on this pic I found on the internet:



Project, does my description of the locking rings or retaining rings sound right? I installed them on the opposite side of the mounting block from the collar of the bushing.

Tyler
Oops. I posted the wrong pic. Will fix later....

OK, now it is "later" and it looks like I posted the right picture afterall. My iPhone shows a different picture for some reason. Anyway, the above pic with the yellow cross member and chrome control arms is the correct one...

Now I've completely deleted the picture. I'm not too good a this. Will fix in a bit...

Here it is again...

 

Last edited by Tyler S; 06-11-2012 at 09:14 AM. Reason: correcting the corrected correction...
  #7  
Old 06-10-2012, 10:27 AM
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I was taught that a flat washer should be used on aluminum where possible and to avoid lock washers that can, will "eat" into the softer material. With a locking type nut, I would forgo a locking type washer.
 
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by raytasch
I was taught that a flat washer should be used on aluminum where possible and to avoid lock washers that can, will "eat" into the softer material. With a locking type nut, I would forgo a locking type washer.
I've been told that too. Im gonna have to take the whole thing off anyway because I've got the aluminum retaining rings on the wrong side of the bushing. In the process I will flip the bolts around so the lock washers are against the steel crossmember rather than the aluminum mounting block. I don't know why they included nyloc nuts AND lock washers. But I'm pretty paranoid about doing something wrong/unsafe because I am such a newbie at this. Thanks for the input!
Tyler
 
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Old 06-10-2012, 04:01 PM
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sorry tyler s.
I am obvious wrong in stating you had the sway bar installed wrong.I did some research and I thought that they all go facing foreward. sorry
sean m conroy
 
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:56 PM
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Sorry, I totally spaced your question about the nylon bushing before.
The lip of the bushing faces outboard and is sandwiched between the mount block and the centering collar, this way the bushing cannot work out of the mount block and it keeps the centering collars from wearing against the mount blocks as the bar cycles up and down.
I would also remove the lock washers under the bolt heads, the nylocks are more than enough to prevent to retain the mount blocks.

Sorry again for not answering all of your question the first time.

Gary
 
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by seanmconroy
sorry tyler s.
I am obvious wrong in stating you had the sway bar installed wrong.I did some research and I thought that they all go facing foreward. sorry
sean m conroy
No problem Sean. I looked around too and you were right that pretty much every other brand of sway bar installs in front of the cross member. Anyway, got it right now.

T
 
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Project-55
Sorry, I totally spaced your question about the nylon bushing before.
The lip of the bushing faces outboard and is sandwiched between the mount block and the centering collar, this way the bushing cannot work out of the mount block and it keeps the centering collars from wearing against the mount blocks as the bar cycles up and down.
I would also remove the lock washers under the bolt heads, the nylocks are more than enough to prevent to retain the mount blocks.

Sorry again for not answering all of your question the first time.

Gary
I figured out that the lip of the bushing goes between the centering collar and the mount block. But, alas, I have them INboard rather than outboard. Does that matter?

I abandoned the lock washers. In fact I abandoned the entire nut and bolt combo from the kit. Went with a grade 8 bolt 1/2" longer, nylock nuts and put flat washers on both sides.

T
 
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:31 PM
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for the life of me I can't think of a reason that the collar can't be on the inside of the mount block as long as there is no interferance problems.
 
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Project-55
for the life of me I can't think of a reason that the collar can't be on the inside of the mount block as long as there is no interferance problems.
OK, thanks. I can't see why it would matter either. t
 
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