If you pour it in sections you can, if you like, pay for it in sections and get usable floor more quickly.
Glass fiber added to the concrete is good reinforcement.

 

Thank you everyone for your gratitude! Awesome people here!

So, I was talking to my brother about a week ago. He is pouring the slab for his 60'x48' shop now, He say's right now the price is 75$ a yard lol.

As for in-floor heating, I really dont need that. I plan to just build a wood stove out of 55 gallon drum's.

My wife just took some picture's of the inside today, I'll try to post them in a few. Not to sure if the net out here will let me but ill try lol.

Thanks again everyone!

 

Sorry about the quality lol, Wife took them with her ipod. But this is it, I'm guessing the support's are from the wall's...

 

Those are clear span roof trusses as I suspected, you'll be good to go. The exterior wall framing consists of the structural posts (vertical, looks to be 8 or 10 foot centers) with horizontal ledgers to support the steel siding. Very typical, looks to be well constructed. The posts may appear to be stuck in the dirt but they are very likely sitting on concrete pads below grade.
Again, that's a nice size shop and doesn't appear to be all that old, probably built within the last 10 years or so.

75 bucks a yard on the concrete is a steal by our standards. Double check on the mix and whether or not its fibered.

Good luck, make sure to post up some pix when you're done. We like pictures.

 

lol, To be completly honest, I have no idea what all that mean's

I tried to get my wife to take some picks of how the post's are in contact with the ground but she say's she forgot lol.

As for the concrete mix, I have no idea what the mix it, Thats just what my brother in-law told me his cost is... knowing him though it is probobly a cheap mix lol.

Now i'm pretty sure the side post's are on some sort of a concrete pad, I'm guessing the concreter block's that have a metal bracket on top, I have no idea what they are called though.

So with the wall's i do know that the front wall is going to need replaced because they for some reason use plywood instead of the metal siding, No big deal though.

 

The concreate can have fiberglass added ot it to make it stronger . In the sub lay rebar should be wired together also .This in turn will make a strong and lasting floor. Thing to think about , do you need a floor drain ? If this is needed a taper towards the drain is required. A power trowel is the best way to finish the floor , it will take four hours of constant floating to get a nice finish on a floor that size.. PS dont forget the beer ( lots ) and steaks for after..Be forewarned that this is NOT a job for wimps as it is hard back breaking work. I have built hundreds of shops , with a well trained crew. As for friends and helpers they should know going in that this is not a fun job and theres no quiting half way through.

 

lol, Thank you for your thought's

As for it not being a whimpy job, That's covered lol. I am very fit Soldier so that part is not an issue Beer is alway's a great idea though!

For the drain, I do not need one.

I do plan on doing what it takes to make a lasting slab, like the fiberglass and rebar. I will be using rebar that is for sure.

I'm just hopping that how ever the person put the shop up did it so that pouring a slab will not be to hard... Other than the hard work of pouring the slab.

 

One thing with the fiberglass, if you are going to be spending a lot of time rolling around on the floor, don't get it. You wind up with some exposed, and you'll pick it up in your clothes and skin.
You really ought to consider the in-floor heat as well. It ads a few hundred up front, is not something you can just do later, and you can always power it with a wood or waste oil burner. I don't know if you get the same damp cool weather there that is seen up on the sound, if you do you'll really want it.
Also, it would be best to do that in at least three pours. That will control cracking and time, you really only get about 45minutes to work the stuff.
If there isn't access to the other end of the shop, then they may want you to hire a pump, which will bring the price way up.

 

Thank you, I didn't know what the fiber's being exposed. I will do some sort of sealer on top too though.

I really do not need an in floor heat, It would be a very nice thing to have. But I don't need it. Plus I really like the feel of wood heat.

 

When you pour, hire an experienced pumper to spread the material for you. Many of those guys have vast experience and are willing to share it. Have him come out an look at the job to give you the advantage of local knowledge. It will save you some grief. You will really be under the gun when the pour starts so be sure you have the right people to help. Time flies when you are not having fun.

 

lol, yes you do have to act fast once the pouring start's I've only helped pour concrete twice so i still have alot to learn.

So you think i need a pump truck to do this job?

Thank's for all the help!

 

The trucks are pretty huge and probably won't fit inside the bldg. They have a limited reach as far as where the pour lands. Pushing a wheelbarrow loaded with wet cement is no fun and you could end up doing a lot of that without a pumper. Also, with little experience, the pumper GUY is key. I only do this very rarely so I depend on those guys.

 

I was thinking maybe taking some of the metal off one wall so the truck could get about center and from there just pushing the concrete with a shovel or whatever...

 

the fiberglas will NOT come through if the floor is machine trowled to a proper finish. the pump truck is a good idea

 

Nice shed... nice big walls for a very big flat screen or projection... perfect place to go when you end up the doghouse.

1) If you can - at all - afford it, then go with a minimum of a 6" slab [8" would be great] thickness, and plenty of rebar throughout the floor.

2) Make sure the ground has been compacted - and it will require - at least - a 6" sub-base...

3) Pay for others to pour it... it will be cheaper and faster, than you could ever imagine. As well, one small error on your part can create havoc on the finished product (there is nothing worse than having the wrong ratio mixed, then finding a section needs to be hammered out).

4) Have the concrete contractor specify in a - written - contract exactly what the PSI of the concrete will be (anything under 2500psi is not adequate).

5) Have you considered putting in a [vehicle] lift later on? If you desire such, be sure to increase the load (floor thickness) in the section you plan to put such.

6) At a minimum the thickness of the floor should be thickest at the entrance and where your vehicles will be moving (center of the garage?).

7) Take into account if you want plumbing in the garage... even if you can't afford it now, at least add the piping for the future [sinks/ toilet/ urinal/ shower]... a urinal is 10x more useful than a toilet in the garage... a shower is real handy - especially after someone chastises you for making a mess of the household bathroom.

*** That's a lot of building... I would even consider running plumbing alongside the exterior - for placement of a summer kitchen setup in the future... an added carport/ roof, and you have a great place to have a party... just saying.


Hey, good luck...

Check out this site for plenty of concrete information;

Concrete Calculator, Prices and Pouring Information - The Concrete Network