Clutch Linkage
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 234
Likes: 9
From: Tuttle, OK
Clutch Linkage
I have a 1950 f1 with a 255 Mercury flathead from a car, and a 4 speed from a truck w/ a floor shifter.
I was wondering if someone could post a picture of the clutch linkage for me. The brake return spring is wired to the clutch equalizer shaft (cobbled by PO) there is no clutch return spring. I see the lug for the spring on the clutch pedal, but I don't know where the other end attaches. I looked in the shop manual, but I am still stumped.
Thanks in advance
I was wondering if someone could post a picture of the clutch linkage for me. The brake return spring is wired to the clutch equalizer shaft (cobbled by PO) there is no clutch return spring. I see the lug for the spring on the clutch pedal, but I don't know where the other end attaches. I looked in the shop manual, but I am still stumped.
Thanks in advance
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,290
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
Plenty of pics in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html
I'm curious, since you are using a car engine (as I am), how the water pumps/belts were worked out? Did you change the crank pulley to the wide belt and use truck pumps?
I'm curious, since you are using a car engine (as I am), how the water pumps/belts were worked out? Did you change the crank pulley to the wide belt and use truck pumps?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 234
Likes: 9
From: Tuttle, OK
Ross,
I bought the truck as a driver, and have run into many little annoyances that need to be addressed. The PO put truck water pumps w/ wide belt pulleys and the fan pulley is a wide belt pulley, but the crank pulley has not been changed and the GM alternator has a narrow pulley. The alternator was snugged into the generator bracket and was misaligned, so the bearings are now shot. Everything works, but I don't have much hope for longevity.
Thanks for the link. My clutch linkage is all there in one form or another, but I don't have a return spring on the clutch pedal. The brake spring is rigged with wire but works, so I am going to replace both.
I'll try to post up some pics of the clutch linkage and the front end of the motor for you.
Kreg
I bought the truck as a driver, and have run into many little annoyances that need to be addressed. The PO put truck water pumps w/ wide belt pulleys and the fan pulley is a wide belt pulley, but the crank pulley has not been changed and the GM alternator has a narrow pulley. The alternator was snugged into the generator bracket and was misaligned, so the bearings are now shot. Everything works, but I don't have much hope for longevity.
Thanks for the link. My clutch linkage is all there in one form or another, but I don't have a return spring on the clutch pedal. The brake spring is rigged with wire but works, so I am going to replace both.
I'll try to post up some pics of the clutch linkage and the front end of the motor for you.
Kreg
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,290
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
Kreg, your truck is much the way mine was when I got it. The PO swore it was "good to go", that he drove it regularly (around his trailer park, LOL!). When I got it home, I found it still had car water pumps, NO front motor mounts! The oil pan was rresting on the drag link. It had a car 3-blade fan with sealed bearings.
So I put on truck pumps, and switched out the WP pulleys to Car pulleys. I broke two pulleys in the process, but they are still readily available. The only advantage of running the narrow belts is that more alternator kits are made for them, although now there are truck setups available. But if I ever need new WP's, I'll have to switch pulleys again. I hope to be in the ground by then!
So I put on truck pumps, and switched out the WP pulleys to Car pulleys. I broke two pulleys in the process, but they are still readily available. The only advantage of running the narrow belts is that more alternator kits are made for them, although now there are truck setups available. But if I ever need new WP's, I'll have to switch pulleys again. I hope to be in the ground by then!
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 234
Likes: 9
From: Tuttle, OK
Yes sir,
I've been chasing gremlins trying to smooth it up, I've changed out the mess of fuel lines (steel,copper,rubber in no particular order). I've changed to electronic ignition and cleaned up some wiring. I still have to rebuild the carb (leaks and hesitation) and possibly the fuel pump. Gonna switch from road draft to PCV (thank you for the info), and hopefully cut down on some of the oil leaks. The tranny is shot, so I may go with a t5 swap, but that's another story!
Right now I just want to drive it!
Being mechanically sound, but not really experienced in these trucks, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the info you have shared. It's saved me boatloads of headaches.
Headed out to get some pics regarding the clutch issue now.
Thanks,
Kreg
I've been chasing gremlins trying to smooth it up, I've changed out the mess of fuel lines (steel,copper,rubber in no particular order). I've changed to electronic ignition and cleaned up some wiring. I still have to rebuild the carb (leaks and hesitation) and possibly the fuel pump. Gonna switch from road draft to PCV (thank you for the info), and hopefully cut down on some of the oil leaks. The tranny is shot, so I may go with a t5 swap, but that's another story!
Right now I just want to drive it!
Being mechanically sound, but not really experienced in these trucks, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the info you have shared. It's saved me boatloads of headaches.
Headed out to get some pics regarding the clutch issue now.
Thanks,
Kreg
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 234
Likes: 9
From: Tuttle, OK
Found the answer
Changed tactics, did a google search and found the answer to my question in another thread here on FTE. The other end of the clutch return spring goes into a hole in the crossmember.
Thanks all, what a great resource.
Thanks all, what a great resource.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 7
From: Erie, pa
Actually a large cotter pin goes into that hole (Cloesed end towards front) and the spring goes attaches to it
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,290
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
I took this spring off an F-2 crossmember. Certainly rusty enough to be OEM. The bent end was thru the hole in the crossmember, easy to put in, a PITA to get it out. I'm thinking the cotter pin type was a replacement option.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 234
Likes: 9
From: Tuttle, OK
Headed to classic auto parts in the morning to get a new clutch return spring and a brake pedal return spring. I also need a few parts for the clutch equalizer shaft.
Thanks guys, Kreg
Thanks guys, Kreg
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 561
Likes: 67
From: Sandpoint, in north Idaho
The spring on my F3 is gone and the one on the F1 is like the one shown. I have a new one and "tried" to install it the other night....not a lot of room and no matter how I approached it I could not get the "weird" end to seat in the cross member! Maybe I need to use different cuss words!
ALBUQ F1, I like your idea of it being easy....suggestions? Brian
ALBUQ F1, I like your idea of it being easy....suggestions? Brian
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