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Clutch Not Rebounding

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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 12:51 PM
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Question Clutch Not Rebounding

85 Bronco (mostly, but with a cab swap of an 85 F150), 4.9L, 4spd. However, it appears like the clutch mechanism is mechanical, not
hydraulic. Supposedly after 83 they were hydraulic, but not this one. (See pics below.)


After the cab swap, we hooked up the clutch. Only problem is, if you push the clutch down, it stays down. You can pull it back up, and it stays up. But you have to pull it up, it won't rebound on its own. There is a retracting spring and it is attached and seems to be working, I guess. Is it possible that it is just too weak? What am I missing?

It seems to move the clutch fork lever sticking out of side of the tranny/clutch properly through its full range.

Clutch in:


Cluch out:


Thanks for any help you can give...
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 01:37 PM
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Probably need to adjust your clutch so that it is releasing the clutch correctly.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 02:22 PM
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The clutch appears to be adjusted properly. At the two extremes of the clutch throw, it moves the clutch fork into the two opposite extremes of its position. If you look at the pictures closely, you can see the difference in the angle, and you can see more of the clutch fork end face when the clutch is out.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 02:46 PM
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It looks to have been converted back pre 83 - 80 as you stated and from what I can guess when the linkage was installed under the dash the over ballance spring was installed also. If you look up by the clutch pedal where it connects to the dash bracket and run it back and forth you'll notice a fairly heavy spring that helps push the pedal down when you breakover the center point but when pulled back up will help to hold the pedal in the up position.
Remove this spring but use care as does have quite a bit of pressure.
Have done this with stock setups from the era when factory coil spring pressure plates were replace by the now standard diaphram pressure plate.
This pressure plate is built to reduce pressure as you open the clutch unlike the earlier one that increased in pressure.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 06:18 PM
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Wow. That's interesting. I did notice that heavy spring under the dash, I thought it must've been there to make the overall clutch movement more smooth. I didn't think to take it out, as it was in there before. I'll give that a spin and see if it works. Can't be any worse.

We did get the thing to fire up today. Major milestone. We had pulled the Bronco body off (major, major rust way up on the body) and put on an 85 F150 cab. Only the F150 was a 5.0 auto EFI, and the Bronco was a 4.9 4spd carb'd setup. So we had to swap wiring harnesses as well. I took lots of pictures, but still ended up with some vacuum hose questions. Anyway, the puppy fired up. So if we can get this clutch to work and wire up some taillights, he'll be back on the road.

Originally Posted by Orin Martin
It looks to have been converted back pre 83 - 80 as you stated and from what I can guess when the linkage was installed under the dash the over ballance spring was installed also. If you look up by the clutch pedal where it connects to the dash bracket and run it back and forth you'll notice a fairly heavy spring that helps push the pedal down when you breakover the center point but when pulled back up will help to hold the pedal in the up position.
Remove this spring but use care as does have quite a bit of pressure.
Have done this with stock setups from the era when factory coil spring pressure plates were replace by the now standard diaphram pressure plate.
This pressure plate is built to reduce pressure as you open the clutch unlike the earlier one that increased in pressure.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 08:40 PM
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I have done swap outs like that before like my F-350 4x4, they did not make those back then in 1959 so I see where you are comming from.
Good luck and hope a pleasant test drive
 
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 01:49 PM
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Removing that spring helped some, but the rebound is still weak. An auto parts guy said that maybe the clutch fork had come off the pressure plate. Does that sound plausible? If so, can that be fixed without dropping the tranny?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 03:54 PM
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does that tranny have an inspection cover on the bottom? if so open that up and have a look while someone else is pushing the clutch in. you should see whats happening. otherwise you will need to pull either motor or tranny. which ever is easier.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 07:40 PM
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I think those have a full bell housing, if so pull the rubber boot back and look in behind the fork even going as far as dropping the linkage off of the fork then push the fork carefully forward to see if springs hooked behind ball and ball socket on fork is seated over the ball and greased.
Is the pedal or linkage binding?
Is there a different clutch listed for 80 - 83 4.9 than for the later with hydrolic clutch?
There was two different size clutchs used on the 4.9 but unsure of the years, a 10 inch and a 11 inch. The 10 inch used 5/16 bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel, the 11 inch used 3/8.
Last thought as I cannot remember, was the earlier 4.9 flywheel step ground?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 12:20 PM
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Actually, we got it fixed. What we thought was the right adjustment was just the take-up in the clutch fork prior to moving against the spring. Apparently with the lift, what was a perfectly adjusted clutch became way out of whack. It seems OK now, just a few wiring issues remain. But we don't have a lot of adjustment left on the clutch. May need a longer rod if we need more adjustment. Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 12:14 AM
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That is happy new's, every time I get one of my projects going it gives me a real good feeling you just dont get much any where else, and you dont wake up the next morning hung over and hurt. LOL
 
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