Cam Phaser / Timing Component Replacement Help Needed
#1
Cam Phaser / Timing Component Replacement Help Needed
I am installing Cam Phaser lockouts and replacing all timing chain components due to noise and a bad timing tensioner (I think). I'm trying to clarify some things in the instructions that I am using to do this:
1. Does the power steering fluid need to be drained when the PS pump is unbolted and moved out the way?
2. Do the cam roller followers need to be removed if I am just removing and reinstalling the phaser? Also do you need the special tool to aid in removing the cam phasers or can you just use vice grips on the camshaft behind the phasers to remove the bolt?
3. Is the crankshaft bolt re-usable or one-time use?
4. If you line up the 3 timing chain links with the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and cam phasers, is any additional timing required (the cam phasers only go on to the camshafts one way)
5. Can the front 4 oil pan bolts be removed without removing the front driveshaft or crossmember?
I am in the middle of this and would appreciate any information relating to these questions. FYI I was able to remove the passenger side valve cover without disconnecting the AC. Also there is slack in the passenger side chain so my troubleshooting was correct - just don't know what's broke yet until I get the timing cover off.
Thanks!
1. Does the power steering fluid need to be drained when the PS pump is unbolted and moved out the way?
2. Do the cam roller followers need to be removed if I am just removing and reinstalling the phaser? Also do you need the special tool to aid in removing the cam phasers or can you just use vice grips on the camshaft behind the phasers to remove the bolt?
3. Is the crankshaft bolt re-usable or one-time use?
4. If you line up the 3 timing chain links with the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and cam phasers, is any additional timing required (the cam phasers only go on to the camshafts one way)
5. Can the front 4 oil pan bolts be removed without removing the front driveshaft or crossmember?
I am in the middle of this and would appreciate any information relating to these questions. FYI I was able to remove the passenger side valve cover without disconnecting the AC. Also there is slack in the passenger side chain so my troubleshooting was correct - just don't know what's broke yet until I get the timing cover off.
Thanks!
#2
Well I can answer #1 and #5:
1. Does the power steering fluid need to be drained when the PS pump is unbolted and moved out the way? No - just remove the three bolts and move it to the side.
5. Can the front 4 oil pan bolts be removed without removing the front driveshaft or crossmember? Yes - but not from underneath due to the power steering gear (my mistake). They are accessible however from the front. There is enough room to get a wrench in horizontally above the crossmember.
Anybody else want to tackle the others
1. Does the power steering fluid need to be drained when the PS pump is unbolted and moved out the way? No - just remove the three bolts and move it to the side.
5. Can the front 4 oil pan bolts be removed without removing the front driveshaft or crossmember? Yes - but not from underneath due to the power steering gear (my mistake). They are accessible however from the front. There is enough room to get a wrench in horizontally above the crossmember.
Anybody else want to tackle the others
#3
#1- no, I remove the oil filter and use a 10mm gearwrench to get the bolt behind the ps line
#2- no, you dont need any special tools and vice grips will be fine
#3- you can re-use the crank bolt
#4- refer to my posts in theis thread to time the cams https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...g-a-5-4-a.html
#5- yes, a 13mm gearwrench will make removing the bolts a snap
#2- no, you dont need any special tools and vice grips will be fine
#3- you can re-use the crank bolt
#4- refer to my posts in theis thread to time the cams https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...g-a-5-4-a.html
#5- yes, a 13mm gearwrench will make removing the bolts a snap
#4
#1 No, the power steering fluid does not need to be drained at all during any part of this job. I was able to do the entire phaser lockout and chain/tenisoner/guide replacement without draining any fluids (oil, coolant, PS, or even the AC) The PS pump is a real pain in the neck to get out of the way, I recommend taking the pulley off first to help you out.
#2 No, the followers do no need to be removed. Just clamp a vice grip right behind the phaser and use a piece of bailing wire to keep the clamp from moving (my passenger side was under load and wanted to move, so I tied it securely to the battery box). I would mention that I have heared of a lot of people who have had their roller rocker arm bearing fail, causing damage to the cam lobe. I would inspect the cams well at this point.
#3 I reused my crankshaft bolt. The balancer is a press fit onto the crank snout, so the bolt does not do a whole lot anyways.
#4 This was the hard part. The stock ford chain used a gold-ish colored link for timing purposes. My chain was entirely gold due to the old oil and sludge that built up on the chain. Take a close look at your new chain and figure out exactly how the system works before you remove the oil timing components (I counted links several times).
Here is the picture that I used to help me line up the timing marks.
#5 Yes. Those bolts were easy compared to the passenger valve cover.
Good luck, You can do it.
Andy
#2 No, the followers do no need to be removed. Just clamp a vice grip right behind the phaser and use a piece of bailing wire to keep the clamp from moving (my passenger side was under load and wanted to move, so I tied it securely to the battery box). I would mention that I have heared of a lot of people who have had their roller rocker arm bearing fail, causing damage to the cam lobe. I would inspect the cams well at this point.
#3 I reused my crankshaft bolt. The balancer is a press fit onto the crank snout, so the bolt does not do a whole lot anyways.
#4 This was the hard part. The stock ford chain used a gold-ish colored link for timing purposes. My chain was entirely gold due to the old oil and sludge that built up on the chain. Take a close look at your new chain and figure out exactly how the system works before you remove the oil timing components (I counted links several times).
Here is the picture that I used to help me line up the timing marks.
#5 Yes. Those bolts were easy compared to the passenger valve cover.
Good luck, You can do it.
Andy
#7
The cam phaser lockout is a device that I found from Livernois Motorsports. It is my understanding that it is a spacer that locks the phaser in one position. I am hoping it will take the cam phasers completely out of play and the cam timing will be fixed in one position. Livernois has a kit that has a programmer to make the motor run without variable valve timing. jrroth has supposedly done the mod and I was curious if it was worth it.
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