3.0 Timing Sprockets Removal Help
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3.0 Timing Sprockets Removal Help
2002 Escape V6 3.0-- I have a knocking sound coming from the #4 cylinder under the valve cover so I removed the valve cover doesn't look like there's a bent valve and nothing seems to be broken by a visual inspection
So I am going to remove the cam shafts so I can replace the lifters on the head next to the radiator and get a better look at valve stem coming up through the valve spring.
Does anyone know if the timing sprockets are just pressed onto the end of cam shaft I don't see a bolt. there's a pulling on the back side of one of the cam shafts (water pump)and I can find a diagram on how to pull that one off but not the timing sprockets.
I am going to attempt on pulling the sprockets off without removing the timing cover and the chain still on I have done this on another vehicle and it worked but it wasn't a Ford Escape. I will bring engine to TDC before I attempt it. I will tie the chain to each sprocket so it won't move off of sprocket and mark everything so it goes back together the exact same way it came apart.
If anyone has tried this and it didn't work please let me know, and if it works or doesn't work I will post it. Any Help or suggestion would be appreciated
So I am going to remove the cam shafts so I can replace the lifters on the head next to the radiator and get a better look at valve stem coming up through the valve spring.
Does anyone know if the timing sprockets are just pressed onto the end of cam shaft I don't see a bolt. there's a pulling on the back side of one of the cam shafts (water pump)and I can find a diagram on how to pull that one off but not the timing sprockets.
I am going to attempt on pulling the sprockets off without removing the timing cover and the chain still on I have done this on another vehicle and it worked but it wasn't a Ford Escape. I will bring engine to TDC before I attempt it. I will tie the chain to each sprocket so it won't move off of sprocket and mark everything so it goes back together the exact same way it came apart.
If anyone has tried this and it didn't work please let me know, and if it works or doesn't work I will post it. Any Help or suggestion would be appreciated
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From: suburban atlanta
I would not do it that way. The shop manual says to remove the cover, remove the ignition pulse wheel, all spark plugs, rotate the crank to put the key at 11:00, check the LH cam is in 'neutral', then rotate an additional 120deg to put the RH cam in 'neutral' (one cam dot at noon, other at 3), remove the RH tensioner arm, remove bolts,arm, guide, chain. Rotate 600 degrees, verify LH cams in neutral, remove LH chain tensioner and arm, remove the chain and guide, remove damper bolt & sprockets.
I do not see how you get the chain off w/o removing all the stuff.
tom
I do not see how you get the chain off w/o removing all the stuff.
tom
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Thank you TomW I already read the manual and know what I am in for but I want to try a short cut first don't have to worry about bending anything since the lifter are self adjuster and they wont be primed
Thank you David7.3 And your right if it comes off I will be tearing it apart but I need to give it a try if it works then its a shorter time limit and if it don't then I will have to tear into the front.
I did this on another vehicle similar to the same setup and it worked hoping it will work again. But I still don't know if the sprockets on the cams are pressed on I am thinking they are .So I guess I will see if I can get one of my pullers onto one of them and try it. Getting the sprocket off with the chain still on is the easy part its putting them back on with the chain on. I will post my results when done still waiting on the parts Napa said 3-5 days once parts arrive then I will start
Thank you David7.3 And your right if it comes off I will be tearing it apart but I need to give it a try if it works then its a shorter time limit and if it don't then I will have to tear into the front.
I did this on another vehicle similar to the same setup and it worked hoping it will work again. But I still don't know if the sprockets on the cams are pressed on I am thinking they are .So I guess I will see if I can get one of my pullers onto one of them and try it. Getting the sprocket off with the chain still on is the easy part its putting them back on with the chain on. I will post my results when done still waiting on the parts Napa said 3-5 days once parts arrive then I will start
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From: suburban atlanta
From what I think I know... the sprocket is placed, and the lobes are arrayed around and along a hollow tube cam 'blank'. The blank is then pressurized internally to expand into the inner bore of the lobes & sprocket. It is not a 'ground' cam, but one assembled of a pile of lobes, a sprocket and a tube.
If you think you can press the sprocket on & off, good luck. It is beyond anything I would try.
As an alternative, why not drop the pan and inspect the #4 rod bearing, etc for damage? Taking the cam apart to inspect for bent / damaged valves seems a step too far before other checks are made. I've not heard of cam/follower/lifter problems nearly as much as bottom end problems.
Have fun and don't forget to let us know how things went. A possibly even quicker, cheaper, and faster solution is to find a Taurus/Sable dohc 3.0 and swap that in place. There are posts about successful transplants, but you have to be vintage careful.
tom
If you think you can press the sprocket on & off, good luck. It is beyond anything I would try.
As an alternative, why not drop the pan and inspect the #4 rod bearing, etc for damage? Taking the cam apart to inspect for bent / damaged valves seems a step too far before other checks are made. I've not heard of cam/follower/lifter problems nearly as much as bottom end problems.
Have fun and don't forget to let us know how things went. A possibly even quicker, cheaper, and faster solution is to find a Taurus/Sable dohc 3.0 and swap that in place. There are posts about successful transplants, but you have to be vintage careful.
tom
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Update
Sorry for the long wait everything went as planed car runs good. They should of bolted the water pump on instead of pressing it onto cam pulling it off seemed to be the hardest part of the job
Thank you for all the comments
Thank you for all the comments
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From: suburban atlanta
What did you find as the cause of the noise?
Were you able to disconnect the cams from the timing chain w/o removal of the front cover? "as planned" just doesn't relate much...
tom
Were you able to disconnect the cams from the timing chain w/o removal of the front cover? "as planned" just doesn't relate much...
tom
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Yes I was able to get to the lifters without removing the front timing cover I zip tied the chain to the cam shafts timing sprockets and then I wedge a flat bar down between the cover and the chain so the chain wouldn't come off the tensioner. The water pump pulling was hard to remove and I have all sorts off pullers but it was a pain in the ***
I found stuff that could of been metal so I removed oil pan and had found that the #4 cylinders rod bearing was shot so I replaced all the rod bearings everything works fine
I found stuff that could of been metal so I removed oil pan and had found that the #4 cylinders rod bearing was shot so I replaced all the rod bearings everything works fine
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