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have you checked your main bearing clearances? also, i would pull the timing chain off and see if you can rotate the bottom end by hand. good luck man, mike
Local race shop rebuilt the engine, I know he checked the clearances because I saw the paper with em all written on....
I just went over there & read the riot act to the 4 muppets who were working there, the boss was at lunch. Just as well otherwise I'd be in jail & he'd be in hospital...
Yeah, no fun when a new engine won't turn by hand.
I have had this problem in the past. A couple things to look for are...
as mentioned bearing clearance when torqued. Also are the rings gapped? An idiot expert helped me buld an engine and did not gap the rings, impossible to turn, he said it was just a tight engine, yeah right. No stuff(rags, rope, dirt, too much oil) in the cylinders right? The valves were clearance checked to make sure they don't hit the pistons right? No broken rockers, valve guides or bent valves?
A new engine should be turnable by strong hands or at least a breaker bar. My old Dodge B Wedge would sping the crank by hand without pistons very easily, and turn by hand with pistons when the heads were off. Unless you have an incredibly high compression or really tight clearances, you should be able to turn the engine with a breaker.
Some thing is wrong. Figure it out before you break something. And don't be so sure the "experts" really know what they are doing. Too many haven't a clue, including me sometimes, but then I don't claim to be an expert and get paid for it.
hi, a friend of mine just went through the same thing ..except he rebuilt the motor ,it ended up being a bent rod!,,he tightened and torqued everything down,,sure enough ..tight as a drum,,so he took all the rod caps off and checked them..sure enough the bent rod ate the bearing,, and that was only turning the crank over a few times!,,,so after a few swear words(just a few) and a new set of rods/bearings later ,,,his motor turns over,,,nicely!
It should take standing on a breaker bar to turn it with the plugs in. If you can turn it by hand with the plugs out, your clearances might be a little tight, but I'd start it anyway.
An old shadetree mechanic trick got me out of your particular situation on one of the first 385s I rebuilt, a mild 429. It was tight, so tight the starter wasn't able to to turn it over enough to fire without the primary wires getting near the danger point with heat. I pulled the #7 & #8 plugs, cranked it over with the coil wire off for a few minutes, replaced the coil wire, fired it for less than 15-seconds, replaced the plugs and it fired on the first click of the starter for the cam break-in. Ran fine for about 20k miles, when I tore it down again and made it a 460.
Originally posted by georgedavila It should take standing on a breaker bar to turn it with the plugs in. If you can turn it by hand with the plugs out, your clearances might be a little tight, but I'd start it anyway.
Hmmm..... I do have #1 gauge starter wire & dual batteries..... I can just about turn it by hand with a breaker bar.....
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