Slight Vibe from rear end from 5-15Mph
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 518
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From: Woodstock
Slight Vibe from rear end from 5-15Mph
I just installed a lift on my truck yesterday, and it has a slight vibe in the rear end on it. It goes away after take off. Lift specs are 2.5 inch front leaf springs adjustable track bar and 4 inch rear blocks in the rear.
Do you Ford Guru's think I need to put a small spacer to drop my driveshaft a little bit. Talked to the guys at Ford and they said if it was u joints it would be doing it all the time.
Anyone else put 4 inch blocks in the rear and need a spacer?
Thanks.
Do you Ford Guru's think I need to put a small spacer to drop my driveshaft a little bit. Talked to the guys at Ford and they said if it was u joints it would be doing it all the time.
Anyone else put 4 inch blocks in the rear and need a spacer?
Thanks.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 518
Likes: 3
From: Woodstock
Well I went by Ford and had it aligned. The alignment was a little more expensive because I put an adjustable track bar on and they had to do a full adjustment on it. It ran me right at 130 bucks. The vibe is still there but not nearly as bad.
It goes away after I take it above 15 mph which is making me think it is not the U Joints. I might just need to get my tires balanced again. I am going to take it by my tire place and have them balance them again. If it is not the tires I will go from there and start looking for spacers to put on the drive shaft.
It goes away after I take it above 15 mph which is making me think it is not the U Joints. I might just need to get my tires balanced again. I am going to take it by my tire place and have them balance them again. If it is not the tires I will go from there and start looking for spacers to put on the drive shaft.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 172
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From: Milton,Ont,Can.
I would say that if you lifted the rear by 4 inches , then you will need to drop your centre carrier bearing to get the drive shaft in line .
I read that you need to drop your centre bearing 1/4 inch for every inch of lift . I might be wrong though but Skyjacker makes a shim kit for the carrier bearing .
Good luck getting it sorted out .
I just replaced all my u-joints and carrier bearing too trying to get rid of the vibrations in my truck . In hindsight , I should have left the original carrier bearing in it because it was still in good shape .
Oh well , live and learn . Now I will have to find an OEM carrier bearing to put back in it .
I read that you need to drop your centre bearing 1/4 inch for every inch of lift . I might be wrong though but Skyjacker makes a shim kit for the carrier bearing .
Good luck getting it sorted out .
I just replaced all my u-joints and carrier bearing too trying to get rid of the vibrations in my truck . In hindsight , I should have left the original carrier bearing in it because it was still in good shape .
Oh well , live and learn . Now I will have to find an OEM carrier bearing to put back in it .
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 518
Likes: 3
From: Woodstock
I would say that if you lifted the rear by 4 inches , then you will need to drop your centre carrier bearing to get the drive shaft in line .
I read that you need to drop your centre bearing 1/4 inch for every inch of lift . I might be wrong though but Skyjacker makes a shim kit for the carrier bearing .
Good luck getting it sorted out .
I just replaced all my u-joints and carrier bearing too trying to get rid of the vibrations in my truck . In hindsight , I should have left the original carrier bearing in it because it was still in good shape .
Oh well , live and learn . Now I will have to find an OEM carrier bearing to put back in it .
I read that you need to drop your centre bearing 1/4 inch for every inch of lift . I might be wrong though but Skyjacker makes a shim kit for the carrier bearing .
Good luck getting it sorted out .
I just replaced all my u-joints and carrier bearing too trying to get rid of the vibrations in my truck . In hindsight , I should have left the original carrier bearing in it because it was still in good shape .
Oh well , live and learn . Now I will have to find an OEM carrier bearing to put back in it .
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 518
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From: Woodstock
It appears to have a taper to it. You can only install them one way. Readylift's only specification for these blocks were height, year, and single wheel only. Cab was not mentioned in any of the details when ordering.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,815
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From: Houston
You might want to give them a call. I'm pretty sure the Ford blocks are flat for the crew cab trucks. I had flat blocks on my truck (crew cab/short bed) when I installed F350 blocks and I have a buddy that is running flat F350 blocks on his CC/SB 250 as well.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Woodstock
I will give them a ring. Supposedly the taper is built in and is in there to help with the pinion angle.
Though I share your thoughts on this, they really should be flat if they are made like OEM F350 blocks.
Though I share your thoughts on this, they really should be flat if they are made like OEM F350 blocks.
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