Glad you got it figured out. Now, I'm wondering where the NP shifter is going to come through the tranny cover on mine.

 

I think the old cage acted as a spacer for the shift handle on the ZF. Since you're using the NP208 shift handle, and assuming that the shifter bolt boss is the same distance away from the rear edge of the ZF as it was on your C6, you should be okay.

It's always great to measure though.....

 

Measure? Is that like reading the book that I bought on fasteners? Duh! Good idea! I'd kinda come to that conclusion as well - with two bolt bosses I don't know which one to use, if either. May have to make a plate that sits across them and puts the shifter someplace between.

 

That's where I'm stuck at as well. But since it's only $5 for the correct adapter, I'm not gonna waste the metal.

 

I am running ARP flex plate bolts on the Bronco. However, they wont see the abuse that flywheel bolts see on a standard tranny. ARP anything is a good product. They get an arm and a leg for their stuff though. I am glad you found a supplier for the exact need in your application.

 

I feel pretty sure that the ARP flywheel bolts would have worked. But, for essentially the same price I got the length I wanted, which ARP didn't have, and the head configuration I wanted. So, it was a no-brainer and I'm now confident, not just pretty sure.

 

Got the new bolts in yesterday and they look exactly right.

And, I did some measuring today, although some of it wasn't too precise:

• The C6 measures 4 9/16" from the center of the shifter pivot bolt to the rear flange of the extension housing, and the ZF5 measures the same from the front of the two tapped holes.
• The ZF5 appears to be ~3/4" longer than the C6, both in 4wd version.

So, I'm pretty sure the t-case shifter will work fine in the front hole. And, hopefully the driveshaft(s) will work fine as well.

 

That's interesting because that's what I have for the Borg Warner extension housing on my C6. I thought there was a difference between our extension housing bolt spacing, but that goes to show there isn't.

Oh well, I still want an extension housing from a C6/NP208 truck, and one that doesn't say E7TA.

 

I mentioned that the clutch linkage is badly worn, and I'm thinking about how to fix it. Obviously I could buy new linkage from Ford, but I expect that would be expensive, although I'm going to check it out. Or, I could get linkage from a salvage, but expect that would be as worn as what I have.

So, I'm thinking about another alternative - make it/fix it myself. The linkages have the holes are worn oblong and the pins are worn out of round. While I could weld up and re-drill the holes, but there are no bushings - at least in the linkage I have.

So, what I'm thinking I'll do is to make new links by using rod and threading it so i can put home-made end pieces on, which will be be drilled and taped to go on the rod. And, the pieces they connect to will have either bronze/Oilite bearings or plastic bushings.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

 

Do you think you can get a bearing to stay in place?

 

I can get a flanged bushing to stay in place, something like the one in the upper right here: Beemer Precision, Inc. - Oilite - Sleeve & Flange Bearings, Flexible Couplings - Sintered Products It would be trapped between the end of the linkage and the arm.

 

Gary, I went back and looked at the linkage pics.

I think I would find some teflon lined heim joints and 3/8" rod threaded at the ends to make the linkage. Maybe even 1/2".

But I could also see using those oilite bushings in sleeves welded to the linkage.

 

Greasable Heim joints.

 

Don beat me to it.

(or NON grease PTFE coated Heim joints.)
We used to get ones that had rubber boots to contain the lube and exclude grit.

 

I should have included the seals part, but good catch.