So do you have a write up for your ZF5 swap (yet) ?

 

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll have to check the linkage for the NP208 t-case to see what problems I might have there. Again, thanks.

EDIT: Ok, I've checked and don't have a linkage problem w/the NP208 - assuming I use the shift mechanism that came on the ZF. I don't have the shift mechanism off of Dad's truck to check to see if it is different, but it must be as the length of the link isn't right using the ZF's shifter so I'll have to make some changes if I use it.

Anyway, here's a pic from the top showing the NP208 bolted to the ZF and the link connected to the t-case shifter. You can see that it'll take some tweaking. (Sorry it is from such a strange perspective, but it is on the bench and I can't move it w/o using the shop crane and ...... your sanity isn't worth the hassle. )

 

Being that the 208 has a mechanical linkage, it won't be too hard to make it right, Gary.

You've come really far with this ZF5 swap onto the Modified.

So will this thread become a sticky when finished?

 

Thanks! But, I don't think we would ever get someone to wade through this whole thread to understand the issues and solutions. Just too much to & fro'ing, starting over, and chasing of rabbits (aka 460 fuel pumps). So, my plan is to write a how-to sticky and include Bradd and Wyoming's ideas as well as mine.

In fact, here's kinda what I'm thinking about, but hope you'uns will tell me what I'm missing or shouldn't include:

• Outline the problem areas at a high level
• Then list each problem area, such as pilot bearing engagement, and explain what the known solutions are
• Then provide a list of the three options I'm aware of and what's needed to get there

But, I'm open for suggestions. I'd like to make it easy to read and understand.

 

That sounds like a plan. That should be enough to get from A to B.

 

photos and mock ups of everything if you haven't check my albums yet. zf tranny issues. will upgrade photos soon. Been a busy year for me and not much truck time.

 

Ok, here's the deal on the place bolts for attaching the flywheel & spacer to the crank. First, Eagle Bolt doesn't stock them and wouldn't/couldn't help me. In fact, they didn't understand the term "place bolt". And, Fastenal doesn't stock them either nor does it have them in its catalog, but they understood what I was looking for.

So, I did some searching on the internet and found three suppliers and sent each of them a note last night. First thing this morn I got a response from Aetna Screw Products which has them and is a supplier to Fastenal. They said I'd need to buy from Fastenal and gave me a phone # for Fastenal to call them. I just got off the phone w/Fastenal: Buying 6 bolts they are $18.37 each plus shipping and tax, which will bring the total to ~$125! Or, I could get the cost/bolt down to $8.69 by buying 50, but that brings the total to close to $500!

Ok, so how about Summit Racing? Found flywheel bolts in their on-line catalog but couldn't find anything but stock lengths of 1", so went to on-line chat. Nope, nothing longer than 1" in flywheel bolts, but have general use ARP bolts that are available in 1.250 and 1.500 lengths. However, the head might contact the clutch so don't recommend them.

Hmmm, ARP!? I called them and they have "flywheel bolts" in 7/16-20x1.250 length. Yes, I'm giving up .050" of thread engagement but longer bolts aren't available from them so I'll go that way. A package of 6 is winging its way to a mailbox near me for $37 inc shipping.

As for the length of bolt that can actually be used, I've done some measuring and will record here what I've found - assuming that someone down the road wants to search for longer bolts:

• I measured the depth of the threads in the crank below the face of the crank - which is important since the threads don't start at the face, as .706". I did that by threading one bolt all the way in by hand on each hole in the crank, measuring the distance between its face and that of the crank and subtracting that value from the length-under-head of the bolt. Then I chose the shortest hole as that's the one that would bottom if the bolt were too long.
• I measured the flywheel's hub (.404") and the spacer (.300") to get a distance of .704"
• That says the bolt can be 1.410". Bolts of 1.375" are available, leaving .035" - which I think should be enough clearance.

 

Update: I got a response from another of my queries, and they have exactly what I want: 7/16-20x1.375 place bolts. And, they are just slightly more expensive than ARP's 1.250" flywheel bolts. So, I called ARP back and canceled that order and then called and ordered the place bolts.

The quote is attached for posterity, but the company is Wilson-Garner Company and apparently they actually make the bolts themselves. I say that because Marion said "You want 6 but we only have 40 in stock so will have to make more if many people want them". US made for sure.

 

That is great that you found the proper place bolts.

 

Cool, they look as though they have the castlenated heads on them as well.

 

Yep. Those heads are a big part of what makes a "place bolt" work. Apparently the "AA" in the quote means place bolt.

 

I knew you'd do it right Gary.

More than anything I like finding the little 'hole in the wall' place that has what I need.

 

Thanks. I kinda sorta believe the ARP flywheel bolts would have worked, but there's always the nagging fear that they won't hold - both due to the design and the length. So, I'm glad to find exactly the right bolt to fit the need.

And, I'm glad to have found a US manufacturer. One web site I looked at said to make sure you get a US-made bolt as there are many clones that are of inferior material. This way I know I'm getting good stuff and I'm helping a US company.

 

Took the t-case shifter off of Dad's truck and played with it as well as the one that came on the ZF5. Here's what the pic's show:

1. Here's the shifter that came with the ZF, and you can see that the linkage is too long. I could cut the linkage and put it back together at just the right length for that shifter. But, I think I prefer the original syle shifter.
2. Here you can see that the shifter locks the t-case in 4Lo and the only way out is to pull the lever to the side to get into 2 & 4 Hi.
3. Here's the original t-case shifter out of Dad's truck attached to the ZF. Looks like it'll work fine, but I did have to swap the lever on the t-case itself to accomodate the link that came on Dad's truck as it doesn't have the plastic insert.
4. Here's a shot of the two different levers - the one on the left is the one that came on Rusty and expects the link to have the plastic insert. The one on the right is the one that came on Dad's truck and doesn't use a plastic insert, but has a c-clip to retain the link.
5. But, there's a minor problem using the NP's shifter on the ZF's extension housing - the link runs at a slight angle, as can be seen where the link hits the lever on the t-case. My thinking is that I can tweak the lever slightly in the vise to line up with the link.

 

Gary, the ZF5/BW1356 linkage and "cage" is completely different than what the 87+? BW1345 runs. One of the differences is that your ZF setup was probably for an 88-96 style cab with the shifter on the side of the transmission tunnel instead of on top. The 1987 trucks and Broncos had their T-Case shifters in the same spot as the 1980-1986 trucks.

I realized today that my adapter is definitely different from your C6/NP208 adapter, so I will be grabbing the one off of the truck that I grabbed my cross-member from. While I'm there, I'll grab the 1345 cage assembly from the Bronco so that I can have the entire assembly; adapter, cage, shift handle, and ****.