Any ideas if you don't have the stuff that holds it in the retracted position?

 

No, it looks more like a small white plastic ball that has been cut in 1/2.

 

Push and squeeze, push and squeeze, grunt, curse, push and sqeeze!

 

Would a couple nylon ties around the whole cylinder, to include the rod when retracted work?

 

I've pushed, squeezed, grunted, pushed, squeezed, cursed, pushed, squeezed and even threw a few tools for good measure and I still cant get it in. Maybe there's too much blood in my alcohol system.

 

You should try getting the slave installed without the cap/clips with a dual disc in there. It's a PITA.

Which style slave cylinder do you have? Aftermarket slave cylinders actually push into the bracket and then twist a 1/4 turn to hold it into the bracket. The original style does not do that, so you have to compress the rod, then push the whole bracket/slave on before the rod pushes out.

If you have the original style slave cylinder, it helps to have an extra hand. I take the cap off the clutch master cylinder, put the slave/bracket up beside the mount on the trans, push the rod all the way in using a nut driver, then push the bracket/slave onto the trans while trying to keep the rod pushed in with the nut driver. Just make sure the pivot arm is pushed away from the slave as far as it goes before hand. It's a PITA, but you'll get it. Just gotta be quick.

If you have the aftermarket, parts store style slave cylinder, you can twist it and pull it out of the bracket. Push the bracket onto the trans, then push the slave cylinder into the bracket. The rod will hit the pivot arm, then you can push and compress it and once you get it all the way in the bracket, twist the body of the slave cylinder to lock it into the bracket.

 

Thanks. That helped a lot. It is the OEM slave cylinder.

Got it in and now I have a couple new problems. When you start to let out on the clutch it is making a hell of a racket. I don't think I have the clutch in backwards, I didn't take the sticker off until I was ready install it and I followed the directions.

I'm also having a hell of a time getting the down pipe to seal at the turbo.

Any Ideas?

 

The racket is called gear rollover. It's common with the SMF conversion.

For the down pipe, make sure the clamp is on all the way around before you tighten it, then as you tighten the clamp, kinda wiggle the dp back and forth, you can almost feel where it needs to be.

 

I hope the noise lessens as the clutch wears in.... It is a gear roll over sound, but I think it will drive me nuts even after I get the carpet back down & the seats in it.

Got the DP leak fixed.... I think.

While I've got the carpet up I think I'll give her a good thorough deep cleaning. Get all the mud and dirt out from under the carpet & sill plates, shampoo the seats & carpet, etc. Almost be like a new truck again.

 

To lessen the effect of that gear rollover you can over-fill the transmssion by one quart. It is easiest to do by removing the shifter tower, and since you don't have it all back together yet, it should be pretty straight forward. Just open it up and dump in an extra quart of ATF.

 

Exactly what Nate said. If you haven't changed the fluid in the trans in awhile, now would be a good time to do so. Drain the fluid and fill it up through the shifter tower with 4 1/2-5 quarts.

 

Should it be making the noise in neutral? It's loud... Twice as loud as the engine.

 

That's when it does it the loudest, in neutral with the clutch engaged. Sounds like you filled the trans with rocks!

 

Yeah. Mine's loudest in neutral with the clutch engaged. That's the only time that I really hear it, but my exhaust is loud, so YMMV.

 

It's quiet when I have the clutch pushed in, but loud when I let out.

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