Is it a clutch problem?
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 307
Likes: 2
From: OR
Performance Clutch - Ford PowerStroke
If okay with the mods. If not, delete.
My HD organic and flywheel is going in next week. YAHOOOO
If okay with the mods. If not, delete.
My HD organic and flywheel is going in next week. YAHOOOO
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,795
Likes: 1
From: Lubbock, Texas
Im actually going back and forth with a guy over on OB about SMF/DMF...he claims DMF is better and the only pro of the SMF is cost.
Each one has its own pros/cons.
Each one has its own pros/cons.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
Thats it.
Its a failure otherwise.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
Don't forget to tell him about the guide pins for the flywheel William! Great idea!
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
if DMF was that great, all the companies would still be using them.
DMF's slip, and slip and slip.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 115
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Likes: 2
From: Catheys Valley, CA
Got the package from Valair Friday. I went with the heavy duty organic. I don't tow much other than a M1 ft Monterey, but I do cut my own firewood.
I've got a Chiltons manual but it seems to cover a wide range of trucks, and for the transmission removal it does not list the steps for the transfer case. I've got the seats out and almost all of the inside the cab work done. I've got the shifters out, but all the stuff they bolt to is still in the truck. Any tips and pointers would be highly appreciated.
I've got a Chiltons manual but it seems to cover a wide range of trucks, and for the transmission removal it does not list the steps for the transfer case. I've got the seats out and almost all of the inside the cab work done. I've got the shifters out, but all the stuff they bolt to is still in the truck. Any tips and pointers would be highly appreciated.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
if you don't have a trans jack, use 2 floor jacks.
I built a part to go under the t-case to keep it from twisting. and use a 2x6 under the trans which I'll strap down to the trans to keep it from slipping.
Just pull parts and slide it down and back.
Be sure to take the bolt out of the 4x4 shifter. It will get caught on the floor pan.
I built a part to go under the t-case to keep it from twisting. and use a 2x6 under the trans which I'll strap down to the trans to keep it from slipping.
Just pull parts and slide it down and back.
Be sure to take the bolt out of the 4x4 shifter. It will get caught on the floor pan.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Likes: 2
From: Catheys Valley, CA
I have a trans jack. I also have 2 floor jacks.
Should I keep the t-case and transmission together or separate them? Also wondering if I have to remove the piece that goes into the top of the trans.
Should I keep the t-case and transmission together or separate them? Also wondering if I have to remove the piece that goes into the top of the trans.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
Pull the shifter and the shifter tower.
Leave the T-Case attached.
When you pull the shift tower, be sure to pull strait up with it in neutral.
When the shift tower is out, look inside and there will be a piece of metal with a spring.
Note how it goes in, then pull it out carefully and set it on the dash.
Don't forget to put it back in when you re-assemble.
But you dont want it to fall down inside.
Then stuff a rag in the top of the trans.
This will make it easier to get the trans back if you dont have a lift.
I usually have to put something under my oil pan to keep the motor from moving so the trans will break loose from it.
6 bolts.
They are all easy when you know where they are at.
The biggest PITA in my opinion is taking the trans crossmember out.
I don't remember which size the wrench is.
You can do it by yourself, but its easier to have somebody hold the one wrench for you.
I usually pull the trans mount first, then pull the cross member.
Before you fuss with that, make sure you break the bolts loose on the trans to the motor.
Leave the T-Case attached.
When you pull the shift tower, be sure to pull strait up with it in neutral.
When the shift tower is out, look inside and there will be a piece of metal with a spring.
Note how it goes in, then pull it out carefully and set it on the dash.
Don't forget to put it back in when you re-assemble.
But you dont want it to fall down inside.
Then stuff a rag in the top of the trans.
This will make it easier to get the trans back if you dont have a lift.
I usually have to put something under my oil pan to keep the motor from moving so the trans will break loose from it.
6 bolts.
They are all easy when you know where they are at.
The biggest PITA in my opinion is taking the trans crossmember out.
I don't remember which size the wrench is.
You can do it by yourself, but its easier to have somebody hold the one wrench for you.
I usually pull the trans mount first, then pull the cross member.
Before you fuss with that, make sure you break the bolts loose on the trans to the motor.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Likes: 2
From: Catheys Valley, CA
I got the tower off by removing the 4 allan head screws. Shifter came strait up, but I'm not seeing anything with a spring on it that can come out. Didn't hear anything drop either. 
I'm use to the starter having to come off on gas engines, but it looks like it doesn't on the Power stroke.
I'm use to the starter having to come off on gas engines, but it looks like it doesn't on the Power stroke.