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William has a neat helping hand for this. Take two of your old bolts that hold the flywheel on and cut the heads off of them, then thread them back into two of the holes so they become pins to hold the flywheel when it comes loose from the crank. Use the same pins to put the new fly wheel on. Start a couple of the new bolts, but don't tighten them, then unscrew the pins out. BE CAREFUL and don't let either of the flywheels fall on you! They are HEAVY!
To get your old dmf loose from the crank, after you put the two pins in, use a small pry bar on one side then the other to try to work it loose from the crank.
That trick works best on the PP, its so hard to line up and get bolts in.
Use 3 on the PP
Then remember when you tighten the PP down to the flywheel to rotate and work the PP flate, don't tighten one then move to the next.
Few cranks here few cranks there. Like a giant press.
I've had mine on and off so many times now, the flywheel is easy.
The PP is hard as hell though.
I've had continued release problems, so removed mine twice. Still not great, just live with it I guess-nothing else to replace. Why have you had yours in/out so many times?
I've had continued release problems, so removed mine twice. Still not great, just live with it I guess-nothing else to replace. Why have you had yours in/out so many times?
You have to pull it to get the trans/motor spacer out.
Mine broke, had it welded then it broke again.
Release problems can be attributed to burs or hangups on the imput shaft.
They say to clean the input shaft and check for burs before installation.
NEVER put grease on the input shaft either.
I used a scotch brite pad and went over it.
I wish it was a part you could lubricate, but i'd rather not get crap on my clutch either.
You have to pull it to get the trans/motor spacer out.
Mine broke, had it welded then it broke again.
Release problems can be attributed to burs or hangups on the imput shaft.
They say to clean the input shaft and check for burs before installation.
NEVER put grease on the input shaft either.
I used a scotch brite pad and went over it.
I wish it was a part you could lubricate, but i'd rather not get crap on my clutch either.
You can put grease or graphite on the input shaft, you just have to make it a LIGHT coating. I have done it with my last two clutches and Dan recommends to do it, especially with dual discs.
You can put grease or graphite on the input shaft, you just have to make it a LIGHT coating. I have done it with my last two clutches and Dan recommends to do it, especially with dual discs.
I wish I would have then.
Probably give it a good rub off with the rag after a coat.
Well, got the flywheel on, about to install the clutch. Other than the flywheel bolts what else do I need to use Loc-tight on?
Also, I'm having a hard time finding longer bell housing to cut the heads off of to use for guides. Autozone (big surprise) don't have anything bigger and the lumber yard don't either. Any ideas?
Well, got the flywheel on, about to install the clutch. Other than the flywheel bolts what else do I need to use Loc-tight on?
Also, I'm having a hard time finding longer bell housing to cut the heads off of to use for guides. Autozone (big surprise) don't have anything bigger and the lumber yard don't either. Any ideas?
You shouldn't need guide pins on the bell housing. The shaft of the trans will be your guide and there are two locator pins already on it. The bolts I was talking about cutting were the flywheel bolts, and using those to slide the flywheel on so you didn't have to hold it up there. Go ahead and put your trans in.
No loc-tite one the clutch bolts? Bell housing? I'm pretty sure the 4 bolts on the rear drive shaft will need it. Same style set up as my Marauder and it required it there.
No loc-tite one the clutch bolts? Bell housing? I'm pretty sure the 4 bolts on the rear drive shaft will need it. Same style set up as my Marauder and it required it there.
None needed on the bell housing bolts, and I never put any on the pp bolts, but you can, shouldn't hurt anything. Yes, definitely on the rear drive shaft bolts.
An extra set of hands is always helpful! I usually wind up doing it by myself and it can be rough. The last time I dropped out a trans and t-case still together, the thing rolled and pinned my hand between the jack and the stud sticking down out of the trans mount, almost pushed that stud right through the palm of my hand....OUCH! Ever since then I drop the t-case first and then the trans LOL! Good luck and I hope it all goes back together smooth! Let us know
Now this is a little bit scary..... The sheet from Valair says the torque specks for the PP bolts are 20 Ft Lbs.... My torque wrench won't go below 25 Ft Lbs. I'm thinking tight is tight.
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