won't run
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Junior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 58
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From: Genoa, IL
won't run
My alternator in my 96 went wide open, and blew up one battery, the other was junked also. Had the alternator fixed and put new batteries in, now it wont start. I also through a cam sensor in because I was told very high or low voltage can hurt them, but still will not start. Any ideas in what could be wrong? I am going to try the IDM out of another truck, and can also get a PCM if necessary. I have no idea where to start.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,773
Likes: 1
From: Texas Coast
My alternator in my 96 went wide open, and blew up one battery, the other was junked also. Had the alternator fixed and put new batteries in, now it wont start. I also through a cam sensor in because I was told very high or low voltage can hurt them, but still will not start. Any ideas in what could be wrong? I am going to try the IDM out of another truck, and can also get a PCM if necessary. I have no idea where to start.
Also some details before the incident would be helpfull as well and then the actual incident description details.
Anything else you can think of too.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Genoa, IL
Yes, I checked all the fuses under the hood. The volt meter was pegged, trans started shifting in and out of overdrive, then the battery exploded, volt meter went to the bottom and the truck died. The shop that rebuilt the alternator said it was pushing 40 volts and 200 amps at some point. Now it just turns over and won't start.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 869
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Some wiring diagrams for 97s may or may not apply to your 96
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-links-4.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-links-4.html
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
Preliminary no-start questions:
* Does the WTS light come on?
* Does the tach move while you crank it?
* Any white smoke?
* Does the WTS light come on?
* Does the tach move while you crank it?
* Any white smoke?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,773
Likes: 1
From: Texas Coast
Sounds like it Glenn, I think its time to get the note book out and start recording everything starting when you went to the shop. You should have had some fuses blow like Pete mentioned and some fuseable links may have toasted as well. I would record everything and think about having the old one checked by another shop. You may be owed some cash in a civil court for this.
So it sounds like there were no reall issues accept for the alternator and then you took it to get it rebuilt and then as soon after the install it fried, Is that about right?
After the dash fuse check and under the hood box check repost your findings.
Edit add on
Does the truck turn over?
So it sounds like there were no reall issues accept for the alternator and then you took it to get it rebuilt and then as soon after the install it fried, Is that about right?
After the dash fuse check and under the hood box check repost your findings.
Edit add on
Does the truck turn over?
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
I'm reading this as the original alternator failed which caused all the issues then after the alternator rebuild and batteries replacement the truck won't start ????
In any case here are a few questions to get started ...
1. Does the WTS light cycle as normal?
2. Does the GPR click ON when first turning the key?
In any case here are a few questions to get started ...
1. Does the WTS light cycle as normal?
2. Does the GPR click ON when first turning the key?
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Junior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Genoa, IL
Sorry for not responding been busy at work. The wts light and the cel blink rapidly, all the fuses in both fuse boxes are good. plugged in different IDM, wasn't the problem. The GPR is fried also, if I disconnect it the CEL stays off and the WTS cycles like normal. I shorted the posts on the relay to heat the glow plugs but still no start. No white smoke at all, so no fuel.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
That means either the GPR / plugs are drawing too much current, or the batteries are too weak to power both the GP system and the starter at the same time. If the WTS/CE were blinking even with the key in RUN, not trying to start it, that points to the weak batteries.
When you cranked it with the GPR disconnected, did the tach move? Did it crank at a pretty normal speed, or slow?
When you cranked it with the GPR disconnected, did the tach move? Did it crank at a pretty normal speed, or slow?
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