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Help Alternator wont charge Solution LOL

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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 06:26 PM
  #1  
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Help Alternator wont charge Solution LOL

Hey guys down here Helping BIG ATV Carl again and I asm coming up the Same as Before

Dam Alternator wont charge

I ran thru the pin point test and every time the same replace Generator

Well he Has

He has been told it good

Every test Says NO



How many Milli Volts to make a Volt??? 100??

I been testing my truck to when I checked I circuit and A circuits

the main red to battery checks at 27 MIlli volt drop same as mine

what am I missing

Oh the Battery/Charging warn light Turns on at KOEO But not when Idling here Running in driveway WHY ITS JACKED UP

The FICM is Droping out at 39 volts Its Cleariy taking a Beating from the Alternator Not charging
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 06:46 PM
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Milli = 1000, so 1000 milli volts per volt. How many volts at the charge wore at start up and then after Gps are off? Mine charges at 14.4 to 14.8, but it takes a bit before it senses to start charging hard. How good are cables, clamps and grounds? Are batteries all topped up with deionized water and are all cells reading the same specific gravity? One bad cell will do what looks like a poorly working alternator. If you can measure SG of each cell, then have them load tested individually. A good charger on the batteries before trying to test batteries for load and to start the truck and check FICM is a good idea.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 06:50 PM
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Guess I just need to pull the alt and take it for a Test
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 06:51 PM
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Nothing comes over 12 volt ever
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 07:25 PM
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It's toast, no testing required. Even at idle right after start it should hit 13s...... It's got several problems.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 07:35 PM
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Make sure the "I" circuit shows battery voltage with KOER

Make sure the "S" circuit shows battery voltage at all times regardless of KOEO or KOER

OHM the charge cable.

Josh
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 08:23 PM
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Alternator Bench Test GOOD


Alternator Volts Comes UP with RPMS to 13.5Volts

But as soon as RPM Drops NO More CHARGE Goes Down to 11.8-12.0Volts at Idle
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Alternator Bench Test GOOD


Alternator Volts Comes UP with RPMS to 13.5Volts

But as soon as RPM Drops NO More CHARGE Goes Down to 11.8-12.0Volts at Idle
could be bad alternator pigtail connector. then again, where's the charge going? lol. sorry i'm talking to myself again.

question. if starter is bad or bad wire to starter, won't it also drain watever charge there is too?

i'm just trying to cover the possibilities.

the last time funky stuff happened to me, damn alternator took out my batteries or vice versa. watever it is, i had to replace the alternator, and i changed my pigtail connector as well. u can get tat from auto zone and splice it in.

fortunately, both my motor crafts are still under warranty but the ford dealership only replaced one since the other one was replaced just before the alternator went out. they charged it back up but about a year later today, it leaked. so they changed it. i told ford to create a case number, then i spoke to the manager at the parts department, and she changed it out no problems. lol.

 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Alternator Bench Test GOOD


Alternator Volts Comes UP with RPMS to 13.5Volts

But as soon as RPM Drops NO More CHARGE Goes Down to 11.8-12.0Volts at Idle
that is low.... the alternator is toast.

you won't even charge the battery at 13.5 volts. you have to have enough
voltage above the static level of the batteries, to overcome the resistance
of the plates, so they will accept a charge.

with AGM batteries, you are looking at 14.5~14.8 volts to get it done.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Fulthrotl
that is low.... the alternator is toast.

you won't even charge the battery at 13.5 volts. you have to have enough
voltage above the static level of the batteries, to overcome the resistance
of the plates, so they will accept a charge.

with AGM batteries, you are looking at 14.5~14.8 volts to get it done.
true tat. tats a good point.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 09:01 PM
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Guys I can't read your posts since I'm driving but I could be on my scan gauge when I was sitting in his cab raised me and Jen its 1500 2000 rpm edit the voltage would come up that 13.6 13.8 and charge the battery
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Guys I can't read your posts since I'm driving but I could be on my scan gauge when I was sitting in his cab raised me and Jen its 1500 2000 rpm edit the voltage would come up that 13.6 13.8 and charge the battery
if ur running ur DC power, shouldn't u be putting out higher volts like 14.4 to 14.8?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 09:12 PM
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Its not my truck

But when you step on the gas it starts charging

Ficm Has the classic fail symptoms

It won't start with the block heater on plug plug the block heater and then I'll start

It's dropping down into the $35 to 39 volts
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 09:57 PM
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Try checking with a volt meter on the battery's. My scan gauge is screwy sometimes. It will read low 12's, jump out and check it with a meter and its never lower than 13.8v ever, so I dunno
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Its not my truck

But when you step on the gas it starts charging

Ficm Has the classic fail symptoms

It won't start with the block heater on plug plug the block heater and then I'll start

It's dropping down into the $35 to 39 volts
Since you are there helping him pull the alternator from your truck and throw it in his and try it.
 
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