When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Milli = 1000, so 1000 milli volts per volt. How many volts at the charge wore at start up and then after Gps are off? Mine charges at 14.4 to 14.8, but it takes a bit before it senses to start charging hard. How good are cables, clamps and grounds? Are batteries all topped up with deionized water and are all cells reading the same specific gravity? One bad cell will do what looks like a poorly working alternator. If you can measure SG of each cell, then have them load tested individually. A good charger on the batteries before trying to test batteries for load and to start the truck and check FICM is a good idea.
But as soon as RPM Drops NO More CHARGE Goes Down to 11.8-12.0Volts at Idle
could be bad alternator pigtail connector. then again, where's the charge going? lol. sorry i'm talking to myself again.
question. if starter is bad or bad wire to starter, won't it also drain watever charge there is too?
i'm just trying to cover the possibilities.
the last time funky stuff happened to me, damn alternator took out my batteries or vice versa. watever it is, i had to replace the alternator, and i changed my pigtail connector as well. u can get tat from auto zone and splice it in.
fortunately, both my motor crafts are still under warranty but the ford dealership only replaced one since the other one was replaced just before the alternator went out. they charged it back up but about a year later today, it leaked. so they changed it. i told ford to create a case number, then i spoke to the manager at the parts department, and she changed it out no problems. lol.
But as soon as RPM Drops NO More CHARGE Goes Down to 11.8-12.0Volts at Idle
that is low.... the alternator is toast.
you won't even charge the battery at 13.5 volts. you have to have enough
voltage above the static level of the batteries, to overcome the resistance
of the plates, so they will accept a charge.
with AGM batteries, you are looking at 14.5~14.8 volts to get it done.
you won't even charge the battery at 13.5 volts. you have to have enough
voltage above the static level of the batteries, to overcome the resistance
of the plates, so they will accept a charge.
with AGM batteries, you are looking at 14.5~14.8 volts to get it done.
Guys I can't read your posts since I'm driving but I could be on my scan gauge when I was sitting in his cab raised me and Jen its 1500 2000 rpm edit the voltage would come up that 13.6 13.8 and charge the battery
Guys I can't read your posts since I'm driving but I could be on my scan gauge when I was sitting in his cab raised me and Jen its 1500 2000 rpm edit the voltage would come up that 13.6 13.8 and charge the battery
if ur running ur DC power, shouldn't u be putting out higher volts like 14.4 to 14.8?
Try checking with a volt meter on the battery's. My scan gauge is screwy sometimes. It will read low 12's, jump out and check it with a meter and its never lower than 13.8v ever, so I dunno
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.