I was only kidding about the lead. It seems like everything they sell has a high lead content.

Somewhat back on topic, when my NEW relay stuck and the starter kept rollin', I am pretty sure it damaged my TFI module. I had never had any problem with it before until that episode.

 

#A... I'm doing the same tests with now three different solenoids and results are all the same. second... triple checked grounds in engine compartment and did a continuity from negative battery post and starter cable (with it disconnected from solenoid) and i get clean continuity thru grounds to engine to starter.#3... engine off no power to s post on solenoid. key in Run 7 volts to solenoid. key in Start 7 volts to solenoid. new ignition switch and old one had no sign of shorting out. last... installed an interrupter between s post and lead that connects to it thinking that at least I can get it on the road for now.finally... when it starts I can not turn it off with key(pull + cable to turn it off), wire from + side of solenoid still overheats and perform continuity test on solenoid it is frozen closed again. solenoid has good ground. ( The reason I asked about horn relay is, if I read it right, the wire that is overheating branches to relay at some point and I had an old Nissan that wouldn't run when the horn relay went out.)

 

Hey Robert!!! You ever get this figured out? What the thing doing for you lately?

 

The best long term solution to the crappy starter solenoids, 1 buy only Motorcraft, or 2 go to a PMGR starter so the solenoid doesn't have to handle as much current.

 

Ya know the hydraulic pump on my motorhome has a solenoid that looks identical to a ford one. Replaced it last year and within a month it's sticking again. Bigest problem is its for an "RV" so the thing cost $120. Mounts right on the pump so it looks custom. I'm gonna get an old ford out of a JY and mount it on there some way

 

Well, if you can afford a motorhome, buddy, I don't feel real sorry for ya....