Push Button Starter Help
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Dallas, GA
Thought about your last description. That sounds like it might be more mechanical then electrical. The lock/cylinder may be getting worn or all gummed up and sticking. That's all pretty easy to get to as well....next section in the manual.
Get that new switch on and adjusted per the manual and see what that does. If it is still sticking then you may be able to clean it up or that may need to be replaced. That rod gets stuck too like Franklin mentioned.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Redneck Paradise
I do believe it is just old and worn out. I'm gonna have to take a look at the rod also. Would that be a part where some graphite lube would help it perform better by helping to free it up some? The lock/cylinder I am going to replace it outright when I have a day off in the near future
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA
I do believe it is just old and worn out. I'm gonna have to take a look at the rod also. Would that be a part where some graphite lube would help it perform better by helping to free it up some? The lock/cylinder I am going to replace it outright when I have a day off in the near future
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 26
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From: Enumclaw
This sounds very relatable to a problem I'm having in my 75 f100. My problem is that even with a new ignition switch and solenoid, I keep getting constant power to the starter even with the key off (intermittently). PO must have bypassed the clutch switch as it starts without pressing the clutch. I posted more details in the 73-79 forum today. Any thoughts?
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Joined: Jun 2006
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If your key isn't returning after "start", it's not the lock, it's probably the switch itself. The lock is not spring loaded. If it rotates and turns on the ignition, I would rule that out. If the tailpiece on the lock breaks, nothing comes on as you rotate it.
I am not as well versed in the older models as I am the 87-91, so I'm not sure of their configuration. I would suspect the switch. It's either bad or out of adjustment.
I am not as well versed in the older models as I am the 87-91, so I'm not sure of their configuration. I would suspect the switch. It's either bad or out of adjustment.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA
If your key isn't returning after "start", it's not the lock, it's probably the switch itself. The lock is not spring loaded. If it rotates and turns on the ignition, I would rule that out. If the tailpiece on the lock breaks, nothing comes on as you rotate it.
I am not as well versed in the older models as I am the 87-91, so I'm not sure of their configuration. I would suspect the switch. It's either bad or out of adjustment.
I am not as well versed in the older models as I am the 87-91, so I'm not sure of their configuration. I would suspect the switch. It's either bad or out of adjustment.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA
This sounds very relatable to a problem I'm having in my 75 f100. My problem is that even with a new ignition switch and solenoid, I keep getting constant power to the starter even with the key off (intermittently). PO must have bypassed the clutch switch as it starts without pressing the clutch. I posted more details in the 73-79 forum today. Any thoughts?
just a stretch but I've heard of this on some of the old chevy's. Don't know the 70's wiring but does your coil get 12V from the starter relay when in start? If so...I've seen where these wires get crossed up and you end up supplying 12V to the solenoid (on the wrong side) rather then the solenoid being a sourse of 12V. Not sure if this is even possible on your wiring but something to check out
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Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
This sounds very relatable to a problem I'm having in my 75 f100. My problem is that even with a new ignition switch and solenoid, I keep getting constant power to the starter even with the key off (intermittently). PO must have bypassed the clutch switch as it starts without pressing the clutch. I posted more details in the 73-79 forum today. Any thoughts?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,992
Likes: 2,741
From: Virginia
I do believe it is just old and worn out. I'm gonna have to take a look at the rod also. Would that be a part where some graphite lube would help it perform better by helping to free it up some? The lock/cylinder I am going to replace it outright when I have a day off in the near future
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 26
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From: Enumclaw
82f100460, I think you are on to something. With the solenoid completely disconnected, performed a continuity test between both posts and no connection. Wire it up with key off and as soon as positive cable touches post the solenoid powers up starter. Disconnect and solenoid is frozen closed. Tap it with screwdriver and continuity test shows connection open again. Thought grounds were bad so moved battery ground to frame and ran grounding strap to fender wall near solenoid from battery. Cleaned ground contacts from hood to fire wall. To test coil do I connect everything to solenoid except starter, turn key on and test coil at positive post for voltage? If I get none then are we talking about the positive and negative leads being reversed? I appreciate any help. What affect would a bad or unplugged horn relay have on this system?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA
82f100460, I think you are on to something. With the solenoid completely disconnected, performed a continuity test between both posts and no connection. Wire it up with key off and as soon as positive cable touches post the solenoid powers up starter. Disconnect and solenoid is frozen closed. Tap it with screwdriver and continuity test shows connection open again. Thought grounds were bad so moved battery ground to frame and ran grounding strap to fender wall near solenoid from battery. Cleaned ground contacts from hood to fire wall. To test coil do I connect everything to solenoid except starter, turn key on and test coil at positive post for voltage? If I get none then are we talking about the positive and negative leads being reversed? I appreciate any help. What affect would a bad or unplugged horn relay have on this system?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Actually I think they are skimping on the silver content in the contacts, if they are putting any at all in them. That's what makes them last, but it's very expensive.