section 12-10....starts on page 12-5.

Thought about your last description. That sounds like it might be more mechanical then electrical. The lock/cylinder may be getting worn or all gummed up and sticking. That's all pretty easy to get to as well....next section in the manual.

Get that new switch on and adjusted per the manual and see what that does. If it is still sticking then you may be able to clean it up or that may need to be replaced. That rod gets stuck too like Franklin mentioned.

 

I do believe it is just old and worn out. I'm gonna have to take a look at the rod also. Would that be a part where some graphite lube would help it perform better by helping to free it up some? The lock/cylinder I am going to replace it outright when I have a day off in the near future

 

That's what I'd use yes...just not in the electrical switch. Graphite is conductive and will short it out so just in the mechanical part.

 

Awesome. Thanks 82f100460 and Franklin2 for your advice, I do believe I know where to go from here

 

This sounds very relatable to a problem I'm having in my 75 f100. My problem is that even with a new ignition switch and solenoid, I keep getting constant power to the starter even with the key off (intermittently). PO must have bypassed the clutch switch as it starts without pressing the clutch. I posted more details in the 73-79 forum today. Any thoughts?

 

If your key isn't returning after "start", it's not the lock, it's probably the switch itself. The lock is not spring loaded. If it rotates and turns on the ignition, I would rule that out. If the tailpiece on the lock breaks, nothing comes on as you rotate it.

I am not as well versed in the older models as I am the 87-91, so I'm not sure of their configuration. I would suspect the switch. It's either bad or out of adjustment.

 

Now that you mention it...the spring is in the switch yes!!

 

just a stretch but I've heard of this on some of the old chevy's. Don't know the 70's wiring but does your coil get 12V from the starter relay when in start? If so...I've seen where these wires get crossed up and you end up supplying 12V to the solenoid (on the wrong side) rather then the solenoid being a sourse of 12V. Not sure if this is even possible on your wiring but something to check out

 

"New solenoid" is the keyword here. If you have your old one, put it back on and try it. The new ones are cheap junk and weld themselves together. The next time it happens, run out and smack the solenoid with the handle of a screwdriver, and that might break it loose and stop the starter from turning.

 

If messing with all that doesn't fix it, I would suspect the neutral safety switch(if you have a automatic) or possibly the clutch switch if your year came with one and it's a manual tranny.

 

82f100460, I think you are on to something. With the solenoid completely disconnected, performed a continuity test between both posts and no connection. Wire it up with key off and as soon as positive cable touches post the solenoid powers up starter. Disconnect and solenoid is frozen closed. Tap it with screwdriver and continuity test shows connection open again. Thought grounds were bad so moved battery ground to frame and ran grounding strap to fender wall near solenoid from battery. Cleaned ground contacts from hood to fire wall. To test coil do I connect everything to solenoid except starter, turn key on and test coil at positive post for voltage? If I get none then are we talking about the positive and negative leads being reversed? I appreciate any help. What affect would a bad or unplugged horn relay have on this system?

 

The horn wouldn't work.

 

If you've proven that you have had the solenoid frozen shut and it opened after banging it with a screwdriver...then just replace that sucker. I've seen it writen on here a over and over that these cheap solenoids have a history of sticking. I've never had it done but I probably still have the original ford solenoid on there.

 

X2. I just returned a defective relay from Advance Auto Parts.
New from China doesnt always mean it works. Probably not enough lead content.

 

Actually I think they are skimping on the silver content in the contacts, if they are putting any at all in them. That's what makes them last, but it's very expensive.