Ignition Switch Question
Ignition Switch Question
I put a new ignition switch in my 84 f150 a few weeks back and its acting up again just like before. The switch will turn all the way and do nothing. I've adjusted it twice and it fixes it for a week or so then it gets more and more play in it everytime before it works. Anyway if anyone knows what might be a matter with that I would greatly appreciate it?
Also I would like someone to tell me what wires I need to wire to a push button switch to start my truck. I have been left with the 'ole screwdriver on my starter solenoid one too many times. If I can't get the switch working right I just want to wire up a push button. I would like it to where I have to have the key in the on position though so i wont get my truck stolen. Could anyone tell me what wires I need to wire to a switch? Its a 1984 Ford F-150 as seen in my gallery.
Thanks a lot guys..Your help is always much appreciated!
Meh!
Also I would like someone to tell me what wires I need to wire to a push button switch to start my truck. I have been left with the 'ole screwdriver on my starter solenoid one too many times. If I can't get the switch working right I just want to wire up a push button. I would like it to where I have to have the key in the on position though so i wont get my truck stolen. Could anyone tell me what wires I need to wire to a switch? Its a 1984 Ford F-150 as seen in my gallery.
Thanks a lot guys..Your help is always much appreciated!
Meh!
Run a wire from the positive side of the battery to the switch and then back to the small post on the soleniod that you put the screwdriver on. This will crank the truck, but not start it without the key on. You can get a heavy-duty momentary switch at about any parts store.
Originally Posted by toyscout2
Run a wire from the positive side of the battery to the switch and then back to the small post on the soleniod that you put the screwdriver on. This will crank the truck, but not start it without the key on. You can get a heavy-duty momentary switch at about any parts store.
Thanks
Use an 18 gauge wire. All you are going to do is put a switch on the solenoid actuator. You wont be carrying a lot of current. 18ga is more than enough. You can run from the positive side of the bat through the dash into the cab and mmount the button there. From the other side of the button you run back out onto the small terminal of the starter solenoid. I have been through the same issue on my truck. I have a very large old screw driver for just that problem.
Originally Posted by ScottInTexas
Use an 18 gauge wire. All you are going to do is put a switch on the solenoid actuator. You wont be carrying a lot of current. 18ga is more than enough. You can run from the positive side of the bat through the dash into the cab and mmount the button there. From the other side of the button you run back out onto the small terminal of the starter solenoid. I have been through the same issue on my truck. I have a very large old screw driver for just that problem.
Thanks again!
Facing the front of the solenoid, the small connection you want is on the left. Mounted on the fenderwell, it is toward the front. The other is for a 12 volt feed for the coil so it gets more voltage during startup. And, yep, you can get the power for the switch from anywhere with 12 volts. You can even use a switched source and the engine won't crank without the key in the run position. However, be careful with you wiring. Whatever circuit you use will blow if the wires you added in short. I would rather run a wire from the battery with a fuse on it by the battery, then if you do short anything, you won't be killing any circuits except your emergency start. One more tip, there is wiring running through the firewall by the heater box. There are two firewall passthroughs, one in the heater box top under the hood, and one under the heater box. The wiring passing through the top of the heater box is easy to add too. I have seen lots of people putting wiring through the firewall by the steering column when it is much easier, and further from moving parts, to pass through the top of the heater box.
Originally Posted by toyscout2
Facing the front of the solenoid, the small connection you want is on the left. Mounted on the fenderwell, it is toward the front. The other is for a 12 volt feed for the coil so it gets more voltage during startup. And, yep, you can get the power for the switch from anywhere with 12 volts. You can even use a switched source and the engine won't crank without the key in the run position. However, be careful with you wiring. Whatever circuit you use will blow if the wires you added in short. I would rather run a wire from the battery with a fuse on it by the battery, then if you do short anything, you won't be killing any circuits except your emergency start. One more tip, there is wiring running through the firewall by the heater box. There are two firewall passthroughs, one in the heater box top under the hood, and one under the heater box. The wiring passing through the top of the heater box is easy to add too. I have seen lots of people putting wiring through the firewall by the steering column when it is much easier, and further from moving parts, to pass through the top of the heater box.
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The push on little wire post. No bolts on it. The stock wire is usually red with a green line on it on most trucks. ( I have had to do the screwdriver jump start many times over the years on various old fords and know that post well. -gg-)
Lee
Lee
actuator rod
I'm have a similar problem but I was stuck in park too. There are 2 rods, one is square and goes in the middle of column your shifter rides on it. Also no spring tension in key start position.Under the bottom shroud on your column you will see part of a square rod on top passenger side. This is part of the of the other rod that goes to your ignition switches(Keyed and electric). If it moves easy it's probably broken. Griff777




