Push Button Starter Help
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From: Redneck Paradise
I never thought to check those areas, much less the clutch switch.
I work in armed security and its habit to say words associated with military/police jargon since most of my division is prior law/military and is also a requirement when on duty. Me, I was basically a mid-level chef for 5 years and wanted a change of pace and worked my way into the armed field and I enjoy it. As for Kings Bay, I bought the truck from a guy there who worked at the base, 2nd owner from craigslist
I work in armed security and its habit to say words associated with military/police jargon since most of my division is prior law/military and is also a requirement when on duty. Me, I was basically a mid-level chef for 5 years and wanted a change of pace and worked my way into the armed field and I enjoy it. As for Kings Bay, I bought the truck from a guy there who worked at the base, 2nd owner from craigslist
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From: Dallas, GA
I never thought to check those areas, much less the clutch switch.
I work in armed security and its habit to say words associated with military/police jargon since most of my division is prior law/military and is also a requirement when on duty. Me, I was basically a mid-level chef for 5 years and wanted a change of pace and worked my way into the armed field and I enjoy it. As for Kings Bay, I bought the truck from a guy there who worked at the base, 2nd owner from craigslist
I work in armed security and its habit to say words associated with military/police jargon since most of my division is prior law/military and is also a requirement when on duty. Me, I was basically a mid-level chef for 5 years and wanted a change of pace and worked my way into the armed field and I enjoy it. As for Kings Bay, I bought the truck from a guy there who worked at the base, 2nd owner from craigslist
very cool....I was in the Navy for 9 years. Never stationed there but have been there and knew several people stationed there. Too bad you're not a little, or a lot, closer and I'd run over and help you out with your starting issue. I'm just outside Atlanta
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From: Dallas, GA
couple other things I want to mention.
First off....where you put that pushbutton is really cool. Great idea and looks great there so good job.
Second...the pushbutton will only put power to the relay to crank the motor. it will not provide power to you ignition system so to start the truck you will still have to put the key in run...then push the button
First off....where you put that pushbutton is really cool. Great idea and looks great there so good job.
Second...the pushbutton will only put power to the relay to crank the motor. it will not provide power to you ignition system so to start the truck you will still have to put the key in run...then push the button
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From: Redneck Paradise
I appreciate your offer for help and should I find myself outside of Atlanta I will make sure to look you up. I'm a 40 minute drive away from Kingsland Naval Base and a 1.5 hour drive from Ft. Stewart in Savannah & 4.5 hours from Macon (exit 2 on I-16E) Maybe one day we Georgia boys could hold a FTEGTG somewhere in the middle so none of us would have to travel long distance. I'll bring a case of Pabst 
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From: Redneck Paradise
couple other things I want to mention.
First off....where you put that pushbutton is really cool. Great idea and looks great there so good job.
Second...the pushbutton will only put power to the relay to crank the motor. it will not provide power to you ignition system so to start the truck you will still have to put the key in run...then push the button
First off....where you put that pushbutton is really cool. Great idea and looks great there so good job.
Second...the pushbutton will only put power to the relay to crank the motor. it will not provide power to you ignition system so to start the truck you will still have to put the key in run...then push the button
I wanted to give the push button a stock-looking location and to hide it from prying eyes since theft has been on the rise in my area. My truck didn't come with a factory cigarette lighter so I figured it would be best to put it there instead of drilling not-needed holes in the dash. I figure that this will only be a temp fix until I have enough cash set aside to fix it properly
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From: Virginia
Are you sure this is the easier quicker way to fix this thing?
I hope you protected that 10 gauge wire good that is hooked to the + side of the battery. With no fuse, if it gets shorted it's certain to cause a fire.
I hope you protected that 10 gauge wire good that is hooked to the + side of the battery. With no fuse, if it gets shorted it's certain to cause a fire.
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From: Redneck Paradise
I thought about changing from the 10 gauge to a 6-8 gauge wire and using an inline fuse, but I wouldn't know what amperage fuse to use. I have a 100 amp inline fuse from my old sound system from my pt cruiser, but I don't know if that would be overkill.
For me to replace the key switch, which what I was lead to believe is whats causing my problem in the first place by my father-in-law, I would have to have the steering wheel pulled and I don't have the time nor money to take it to a shop to have that done. 82f100460 made some good points on what else could be causing my problem and I will be looking there in the morning when I get off duty
For me to replace the key switch, which what I was lead to believe is whats causing my problem in the first place by my father-in-law, I would have to have the steering wheel pulled and I don't have the time nor money to take it to a shop to have that done. 82f100460 made some good points on what else could be causing my problem and I will be looking there in the morning when I get off duty
Last edited by siloketh; Mar 18, 2012 at 08:07 PM. Reason: incomplete
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From: Virginia
The only current going through the fuse would be what is required to activate the solenoid on the fender. I would think a 10 or 15 amp fuse would be plenty. You could even go up to 30amp, and still have good fire protection. I am not sure exactly what the coil in the factory solenoid draws, but it's not very much.
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From: Redneck Paradise
Good deal, thanks Frank. I'll get a 30 amp fuse just to be on the safe side. Any other suggestions as to what could be causing my problem? And don't tell me to remove my radiator cap and swap out a new truck under it
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From: Virginia
Well, I am not sure you described your "real" problem good enough for me to guess. But if you can turn the key, and everything lights up, but you just can't seem to turn the key far enough for it to crank, and you have a tilt wheel, your little pot metal piece down in the column is probably broken. It's a very common problem on these trucks. If this is the problem, you can turn the key to run, take the short column cover off that is near the cluster, and take some pliers and grab the rod that is running down on top of the column, and "help" it downward with the pliers and it should crank if that's the problem.
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From: Dallas, GA
definately should be temporary. btw...as far as I know, you don't have to pull the steering wheel to replace the ingnition switch. It's really quit simple to do. depending on which style you have, you may have to take a couple bolts out to lower the steering column...but even that's pretty simple.
O'Reilly has one for $15...original motorcraft for $25..if it turns out to be that.
O'Reilly has one for $15...original motorcraft for $25..if it turns out to be that.
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From: Dallas, GA
Well, I am not sure you described your "real" problem good enough for me to guess. But if you can turn the key, and everything lights up, but you just can't seem to turn the key far enough for it to crank, and you have a tilt wheel, your little pot metal piece down in the column is probably broken. It's a very common problem on these trucks. If this is the problem, you can turn the key to run, take the short column cover off that is near the cluster, and take some pliers and grab the rod that is running down on top of the column, and "help" it downward with the pliers and it should crank if that's the problem.
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From: Redneck Paradise
No steering wheel tilt. My truck seems to be as base model as one could get. I can put the key in and turn it all the way and it would start. And sometimes I can do the same and nothing would happen, except for my gauges and lights to kick on like normal. When it does start properly, I have to turn the key switch back just a touch until I feel slight resistance so my blinkers and gas/temp gauge will work. From my research done here on FTE, I found a thread where a guy had an issue with his switch and the spring inside wasn't returning the key back to a normal position.
I can deal with turning my key back manually. But the starting issue seems to be intermittent/regularly occurring and is a inconvenience to me especially when its raining and I have to trick the solenoid to start my truck. I bought the key switch and the ignition switch from O'Rielly's for $25 only to realize the next day according to my Haynes manual that I would need to remove my steering wheel to replace those parts.
Once I have the time & money to grab some loaner tools from O'Riellys I want to fix the ignition issue properly and go from there
I can deal with turning my key back manually. But the starting issue seems to be intermittent/regularly occurring and is a inconvenience to me especially when its raining and I have to trick the solenoid to start my truck. I bought the key switch and the ignition switch from O'Rielly's for $25 only to realize the next day according to my Haynes manual that I would need to remove my steering wheel to replace those parts.
Once I have the time & money to grab some loaner tools from O'Riellys I want to fix the ignition issue properly and go from there
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From: Dallas, GA
Read it again Bud....I'm looking at the Haynes manual right now. What is says is to remove the bolts that secure the column to the braket. Basically you will remove 2 bolts and the column will come down just to get to the switch...which is mounted on the top side of the column.