Oil Filter Question
Oil Filter Question
I just changed the oil on my Mustang and showed my son/apprentice the difference in sizes of a standard oil filter compared to the FL-1A, which is longer. Tomorrow I will change the oil in my 97 E 5.4L, which brings me to the question!
Is there a larger/better than standard, oil filter available for my van?
Is there a larger/better than standard, oil filter available for my van?
I don't know about larger but I have read that Amsoil filters are pretty good /better than stock...Have you tried Donaldson ? they have a longer one for my 7.3 ...maybe they make one for yours ?
https://dynamic.donaldson.com/webc/W...47&kiosk=false
https://dynamic.donaldson.com/webc/W...47&kiosk=false
What's your oil/filter change interval?
I use dino oil, changing about every 3-4K and use the FL-820S MotorCraft filters---bought 12 from the stealership for $5.00 each.
Wix are said to be among the best filters in general---NAPA's Gold Line are made by Wix.
I use dino oil, changing about every 3-4K and use the FL-820S MotorCraft filters---bought 12 from the stealership for $5.00 each.
Wix are said to be among the best filters in general---NAPA's Gold Line are made by Wix.
So after searching around AC Delco offers 2 filter lengths of oil filters for the 5.4L.
PF1250 at 90.9mm in length. Rockauto price $3.63
PF1250Cl at 81.3mm in length. Rockauto price $6.97
Motocraft is advertised at 111mm, Rockauto price $3.47
So I am going to the parts counter today to look at these filters with my eyes and pick the longest with a good label.
PF1250 at 90.9mm in length. Rockauto price $3.63
PF1250Cl at 81.3mm in length. Rockauto price $6.97
Motocraft is advertised at 111mm, Rockauto price $3.47
So I am going to the parts counter today to look at these filters with my eyes and pick the longest with a good label.
some engines i've worked on need the shorter filter to provide clearance against the frame or other parts, so be sure you won't cause more problems than you solve for doing this.
i once met a jeep on the side of a logging road who just got his oil changed, and dumped it all because of a filter that was too long and rubbed. when you have space, bigger is better, but be sure you have space
i once met a jeep on the side of a logging road who just got his oil changed, and dumped it all because of a filter that was too long and rubbed. when you have space, bigger is better, but be sure you have space
The Motorcraft FL820S has a silicone anti drainback valve and the relief valve is on the engine end of the filter, so it is a better design than most others, works great, and is cheap. There are a number of oil filter tests on the Internet, and I use the FL820S most of the time, but have also used some Purolator Pure Ones (which I have gotten in deals bundled with oil), which have much more filtering area despite the length of the filter.
If you are desperate to add a tiny bit of oil capacity to the engine, you want a longer filter; if you want better filtration, it is more about design and actual fiter media area, which can vary tremendously between different filters. Use the search feature either on this forum, bob is the oil guy forum, or on the Internet in general and you can spend days reading about oil filters if you want to. I have done this and use what I told you I use.
George
If you are desperate to add a tiny bit of oil capacity to the engine, you want a longer filter; if you want better filtration, it is more about design and actual fiter media area, which can vary tremendously between different filters. Use the search feature either on this forum, bob is the oil guy forum, or on the Internet in general and you can spend days reading about oil filters if you want to. I have done this and use what I told you I use.
George
Well after a trip to the parts store they had 2 filters the Fram PH2and the Defense DL2. I looked at them both in and out to my eye they look the same from what I could see. Now the Fram filter has the grippy tar crap on the outside but that is the only difference.
Now I have been involved with working in the auto industry building lots of automotive assemblies over the years and I can tell you the tooling is the same and the filter media looks similar too.
Here is a post concerning Defense filters, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...l-filters.html
After looking at the filter placement a longer filter would be exposed to road rash, which would be a bad thing!
Thanks for all the input.
Now I have been involved with working in the auto industry building lots of automotive assemblies over the years and I can tell you the tooling is the same and the filter media looks similar too.
Here is a post concerning Defense filters, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...l-filters.html
After looking at the filter placement a longer filter would be exposed to road rash, which would be a bad thing!
Thanks for all the input.
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In any comparison of filters where they are cut open, Frams are built very, very cheaply, and it sounds like the Defense is a lower line Fram. I remember using Frams in the 70's because they used to score high in Consumer Reports, but the oil filter geeks (like me) avoid them whenever possible these last few years. They make some good filters with metal end caps and silicone anti drainback valves, but they are $10.
If you bought a Fram or Defense, and your engine clatters on cold startup, throw the filter in the trash and put a Motorcraft and another half quart of oil in your van. The anti drainback valves in Frams are nitrile rubber and seal against cardboard, so there is a possibility you will be starting your engine with an empty filter.
Again, what I use is the FL820S or the Pure One. Wix filters are good as well, particularly their higher end ones (including the NAPA gold, which is a high end Wix).
George
If you bought a Fram or Defense, and your engine clatters on cold startup, throw the filter in the trash and put a Motorcraft and another half quart of oil in your van. The anti drainback valves in Frams are nitrile rubber and seal against cardboard, so there is a possibility you will be starting your engine with an empty filter.
Again, what I use is the FL820S or the Pure One. Wix filters are good as well, particularly their higher end ones (including the NAPA gold, which is a high end Wix).
George
George when I start the engine I am not waiting for oil pressure to build, there is no delay as there is with a new filter. I have done many oil changes and can tell the difference.
As for Fram quality there are many posts for and against, I am for anything built in North America. I will cut open the filters I have here and take a look inside.
I only use the Ford FL-1A in my Mustang as I know it is a good filter for when I am buzzing the **** out of it. I just discovered I can us the FL-299 which is a longer filter used on the older Super-Duties.
As for the extra oil I do not know the clearances inside so I am not sure if the extra oil would be slapping the crank or not.
As for Fram quality there are many posts for and against, I am for anything built in North America. I will cut open the filters I have here and take a look inside.
I only use the Ford FL-1A in my Mustang as I know it is a good filter for when I am buzzing the **** out of it. I just discovered I can us the FL-299 which is a longer filter used on the older Super-Duties.
As for the extra oil I do not know the clearances inside so I am not sure if the extra oil would be slapping the crank or not.
Use what you want, but I have seen very little "pro Fram" buzz on the Internet in these last few years. Here is a page with a bunch of cut open filters and media specs--in the FL1A/Mopar family. The basic cheap Fram is under 200 square inches of media; the Motorcraft is almost 300 square inches, and the Pure One is 400 square inches. I use either of the last two. Note also the cardboard end caps on the Fram and the plastic relief valve. Built to a price point, as cheaply as possible, with a flashy orange can.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html
The FL820S adds a silicone ADB valve. Again, use what you like; chances are your engine will not die regardless of your choice, but I don't like the insides of Fram's construction and you will never know if you have a bad filter until you are done using it. You may wish to read the author's recommendations, filters he does and does not recommend based on construction.
When your van sits for a couple days, you may have some startup noise with a filter with a flawed ADB valve. I have experienced this with cheap filters and have read many accounts of Frams leaking down as well.
Purolators are US made as far as I know. Use what you want, really. I'm done; there is a lot more to read on the Internet; I have read a lot and have made my choices.
Good luck,
George
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html
The FL820S adds a silicone ADB valve. Again, use what you like; chances are your engine will not die regardless of your choice, but I don't like the insides of Fram's construction and you will never know if you have a bad filter until you are done using it. You may wish to read the author's recommendations, filters he does and does not recommend based on construction.
When your van sits for a couple days, you may have some startup noise with a filter with a flawed ADB valve. I have experienced this with cheap filters and have read many accounts of Frams leaking down as well.
Purolators are US made as far as I know. Use what you want, really. I'm done; there is a lot more to read on the Internet; I have read a lot and have made my choices.
Good luck,
George
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