Stripped Fuel filter cap
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 3
From: River Valley AR
Ideas-
Clean and dry it, then put a heat gun on the plastic until it softens up.
Tap it with a chisel from several angles to get it to collapse/crack/break into the center.
Many contact cleaners will make some plastics brittle. Spray it and break it off. Don't get it in your fuel system though, no telling what it does to o-rings.
Try to find an internal pipe wrench. It would have to be bigger than any I have seen though.
http://www.acmetools.com/tools/RECTO...ipe+Wrench+Set
Clean and dry it, then put a heat gun on the plastic until it softens up.
Tap it with a chisel from several angles to get it to collapse/crack/break into the center.
Many contact cleaners will make some plastics brittle. Spray it and break it off. Don't get it in your fuel system though, no telling what it does to o-rings.
Try to find an internal pipe wrench. It would have to be bigger than any I have seen though.
http://www.acmetools.com/tools/RECTO...ipe+Wrench+Set
Last edited by bodabdan; Mar 24, 2012 at 11:23 PM. Reason: link for internal pipe wrench
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
If you have an international truck dealership near by, they sell the the direct replacement part for the 6.0 engine cheeper. I got it hear in south Fla. for 15.00. Remember the 6.0 enging is built by International, and they also used the 6.0 engine in alot of their trucks and buses as well. The part was identical to the ford cap, but it came in a plain brown box, not the fancy motorcraft part box.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
Tried everything........
Stripped it, broke it with the socket, screwdrivered it, chiseled it.
Now with just really the threaded part in the housing, what would you recommend? It never budged and I am almost sure at 130K someone(Ford) has never seen the inside of this filer housing.
What to do now?
Stripped it, broke it with the socket, screwdrivered it, chiseled it.
Now with just really the threaded part in the housing, what would you recommend? It never budged and I am almost sure at 130K someone(Ford) has never seen the inside of this filer housing.
What to do now?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...el-filter.html
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Southlake
Holy cow, finally........ I am guessing that it just needed to cool overnight to loosen it up some.
Not sure if I came out ahead on this or not but it seems that the job is done. Thanks for all the help with this.
Not sure if I came out ahead on this or not but it seems that the job is done. Thanks for all the help with this.
New User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Red Bluff ca.
stripped cap nut fuel filter 7.3
If you have the one piece filter and strip the nut here is how I finally got it off. Drill two holes across from each other into the lid as far apart as you can without getting into the down edge. Insert lag bolts. Then you use something that is not flexible to lay across the top and crank on it. The screws hold up well, leverage is the key, You also have to remove the power stroke bracket to get enough room. Sure hope this helps someone as it was hours before we came up with this,
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: DFW, TX
All above are good ideas. I,also, had a stripped plastic one, (stupid metric system...apparently a da.nm is 10% if a nm which means about 10in# vs 100'lbs which is what I torqued it to. ..😂😂😂😂😨😨😨😡😡😡😡😱😱😭😭😭😭
but any way, I COMPLETELY destroyed the top, also only leaving the internal threads. Ultimately I gently and carefully used a hammer and chisel to cut a V into the side of the plastic, and got it to the point I could break out the v shaped piece with a screw driver then squeeze the plastic ring together out of the threads. I didn't damage my threads but it was close! I went with an aluminum one because it was cheaper or close enough in cost than a stock plastic one and I won't have to ever worry about it again. Amazon.com
but any way, I COMPLETELY destroyed the top, also only leaving the internal threads. Ultimately I gently and carefully used a hammer and chisel to cut a V into the side of the plastic, and got it to the point I could break out the v shaped piece with a screw driver then squeeze the plastic ring together out of the threads. I didn't damage my threads but it was close! I went with an aluminum one because it was cheaper or close enough in cost than a stock plastic one and I won't have to ever worry about it again. Amazon.com
Last edited by ajsemtb; Mar 26, 2018 at 11:02 AM. Reason: Wasn't done typing
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Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,335
Likes: 344
From: Breckenridge, TX
I want to pause this celebration of necromancing to point out: HOLY **** 100 lb-ft? 
It's got an o-ring, you don't really even have to torque it 
That's a good story though.
It's got an o-ring, you don't really even have to torque it That's a good story though.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: DFW, TX
😂😂😂😂😂 trust me, I know! In retrospect I remember thinking wow it wasn't this hard to take off! Lol
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