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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Check engine light randomly coming on, mostly on.

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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 12:20 PM
  #16  
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Well I replaced it and sure enough the problem still seems to exist. I haven't pulled the codes again and since it is still running the same as before I need to do se more searching. Is it necessary to clear the codes to have the truck right again after a problem throws a cel?
 
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 12:59 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by bulla
Well I replaced it and sure enough the problem still seems to exist. I haven't pulled the codes again and since it is still running the same as before I need to do se more searching. Is it necessary to clear the codes to have the truck right again after a problem throws a cel?
OK, good idea to replace the damaged coilpack.

Yes we're supposed to clear/wipe the computer codes after a repair, so that the computer knows a repair has been made. We can clear all codes & wipe the KAM by removing the battery B- cable & turn on an electrical load, like leave a door open, turn the light switch on, ect, for a few minutes to wipe the KAM. Then turn the electrical load off & reconnect the battery B- cable & if we have an auto tranny, to prevent possible driveabiity problems, go through the cold & warm idle relearn strategy.

All that said, you may have more than one problem, so wipe the KAM, drive it some, pull & post ALL additional codes found & go where they lead.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 08:43 PM
  #18  
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Thanks for all the help and will do!
 
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 04:22 PM
  #19  
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Ok so I pulled the codes after replacing the coil but didn't clear the codes. Drove it for a few days. It threw a 222, 223, &224. So I cleared the codes per pawpaws read and I'm still immediately getting the 222 after cranking the truck. Not sure if it would throw the code without it running. I didn't give it a chance to see. I have looked over the wires and plug ins but with no signs of damage. If its coming on immediately after starting do you think it's something shorted out? I'm clueless and at the mercy of you guys.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 06:35 PM
  #20  
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OK, good idea to poat the additional trouble codes, the 224 code suggests that something it amiss with the primary leads, so check the coilpack primary electrical connector pins/spckets & wires for problems. Maybe do a wiggle test if a visual inspection doesn't reviel anything. Check both coilpack plugs & wiring.

The 223 code is for loss of dual plug inhibit control.

Any idea how the old coilpacks electrical connector got damaged like that????
 
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 08:35 PM
  #21  
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Now I did unplug the forward most coolly pack while the truck was running before I changed the coil pack. So this kinda sounds like what might of caused the 223, and 224 code. Also I put the new coil pack to the front cause I thought it was the primary one. Was that the right thing to do?
I did however get to drive it today for about 15 miles with the cel light off and man did it run good. But the next time I cranked it the light was back on.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 09:48 PM
  #22  
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Pull the coilpack electrical connector & probe it with your multimeter, while doing a wiggle test at KOEO & see if B+ is intermittent to the primary winding connections.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 06:21 PM
  #23  
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I did get to verify voltage to coil packs today. Both passed the wiggle test as well. One thing I tried was unplugging the coil packs while the truck was running. Results, unplug the forward one and the truck dies. Unplug rear and there is absolutely no change, like ts it even doing anything at all.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 06:43 PM
  #24  
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More news for reference. On my drive home about 3 miles before the house the cel went out and power was returned. I made up my mind if the light was still out once I got home I was going to unplug the forward coil pack to see if it would stay running. Guess what, it did stay running! As soon as I unplugged it the motor shook just a little, but continued running. I immediately plugged it back in and it went back to purring. So I then unplugged the rear pack and sure enough it stumbled a hair but kept running. Plugged it back in and cleared right up. Went and looked at the dash and still no cel. So what actually controls these two coil packs?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 10:05 PM
  #25  
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OK, good feedback on the wiring wiggle test & B+ test.

The 2.3L ignition system uses a 2 vane crank shaft sensor that provides basic timing info to the ECM/computer, to have it have the ICM ground switch the coilpacks to make spark. If the crank sensors output to the computer, or the ICM grounding of the coilpacks is corrupt, spark can be affected. So you need to do some more checking of the ground wiring between the coilpack & ICM & between the crank sensor & the computers firewall connector. Look for damage or debris on the crankshaft, or crank sensor or its vanes. Make sure the crank sensor is mounted securely & its wiring insulation is ok. Maybe do a wiggle test of the crank sensors wiring with the engine at idle & see if you can cause rough running.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 10:35 PM
  #26  
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Where is the crank sensor?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 10:52 PM
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On the front of the engine, just above the crankshaft.
 
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