Building som Traction bars!
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
To work like they should the brackets should be welded to the axle tube and the axle tube welded to the diff housing. I wouldn't use anything but 4130 chromoly and teflon lined hiem joints.
However the problem no one seems to care about is the fact that "traction bars" bind when used with leaf springs. They aren't designed to work with each other. It is physically impossible to build it where they won't bind.
However the problem no one seems to care about is the fact that "traction bars" bind when used with leaf springs. They aren't designed to work with each other. It is physically impossible to build it where they won't bind.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
From: Union,Ky
To work like they should the brackets should be welded to the axle tube and the axle tube welded to the diff housing. I wouldn't use anything but 4130 chromoly and teflon lined hiem joints.
However the problem no one seems to care about is the fact that "traction bars" bind when used with leaf springs. They aren't designed to work with each other. It is physically impossible to build it where they won't bind.
However the problem no one seems to care about is the fact that "traction bars" bind when used with leaf springs. They aren't designed to work with each other. It is physically impossible to build it where they won't bind.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 0
From: Dalton,Ga
To work like they should the brackets should be welded to the axle tube and the axle tube welded to the diff housing. I wouldn't use anything but 4130 chromoly and teflon lined hiem joints.
However the problem no one seems to care about is the fact that "traction bars" bind when used with leaf springs. They aren't designed to work with each other. It is physically impossible to build it where they won't bind.
However the problem no one seems to care about is the fact that "traction bars" bind when used with leaf springs. They aren't designed to work with each other. It is physically impossible to build it where they won't bind.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
From: west sacramento ca
i also want them on my drw. i know a couple guys who have them on their trucks. i have yet to hear of them having issues with em. none of the trucks are stock ride height- or wheeled that hard honestly. just tow vehicles or "mani-vans".
we are just gonna copy the set on my buddies duramax and slap em on my truck. it'll surely make my neighbor want a set.
we built a steering set up on a dodge with: 7/8 heim joints 1 1/2 od 1/4 wall dom. looks and works great. we are gonna use the same stuff on the traction bars.
there are multiple ways to mount them to your axle. we are gonna weld them on there.
my .02
kurt
we are just gonna copy the set on my buddies duramax and slap em on my truck. it'll surely make my neighbor want a set.
we built a steering set up on a dodge with: 7/8 heim joints 1 1/2 od 1/4 wall dom. looks and works great. we are gonna use the same stuff on the traction bars.
there are multiple ways to mount them to your axle. we are gonna weld them on there.
my .02
kurt
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 6
From: Marseilles IL
I just picked up a Pro Comp traction bar mounting kit at Jc Whitney for $165. It came with the bolt on mounts for the frame, and bolt on mounts for the axle, and the bushings and sleeves for both arms,and all hardware. They sell the bars seperatly for about $300 butt I'm gona make my own bars for free. I have plenty of leftover DOM rollcage tubeing from my exocage I built for my Jeep. The mounting kit is nice quality for the price.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
From: Union,Ky
I just picked up a Pro Comp traction bar mounting kit at Jc Whitney for $165. It came with the bolt on mounts for the frame, and bolt on mounts for the axle, and the bushings and sleeves for both arms,and all hardware. They sell the bars seperatly for about $300 butt I'm gona make my own bars for free. I have plenty of leftover DOM rollcage tubeing from my exocage I built for my Jeep. The mounting kit is nice quality for the price.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 6
From: Marseilles IL
Sorry don't know how to link and I'm on my I phone so I don't know if I can even if I knew how. I got them from Whitney because there warehouse is by my house and I had a $50 gift certificate. Summit has better pics anyway. The part # is 72099b for the brackets, and the bars are #72400b. Just google the #s and you will find them from many dealers I figure the time saved on making the brackets is worth it.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,347
Likes: 1
From: Maysville, Kentucky
I got my rear brackets from ballistic fab but they are weld on. I still have four of them I think. I'll have to look. If I do just run down here and get them if you want to go that route.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
I won't argue that they won't make a difference and all that. I am just saying that they bind even if you can't tell when driving. It is something that can only really be seen and witnessed with the vehicle off the ground and mechanically loading the suspension. This is why when you see 4 links, ladder bars, and other hard linked suspensions they are using coil springs normally.
Of coarse there is always exceptions like on vettes that split leaf springs and stuff.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 466
Likes: 0
You can build traction bars that don't bind. You build it with two mounts on the axle that go to one joint that is attached to a shackle and a bushing on the frame. They work great. Had on on my bronco ii with tons of flex
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
Did you see that in my post in the other thread?
Good videos! The problem with bars is leaf springs make the axle travel in a arc. Solid mounted bars like the ones in the video have a more strait up and down "vertical" travel. The video shows without the bars the rear axle twists under load (excessively because of the 8" blocks they have between the axle and springs). The bars simply keep the axle from twisting the leaf springs but still actually "twist" the rear axle in order to have suspension travel. They are binding the springs even though you can't totally see it or feel it. I know people do it every day and thats fine, it just causes stress on stuff.
There is no real alternative using leaf springs. For it to be done totally right coil over shocks/coil springs and separate shocks should be used with a 4 link configuration.
Just how it is.
There is no real alternative using leaf springs. For it to be done totally right coil over shocks/coil springs and separate shocks should be used with a 4 link configuration.
Just how it is.
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