The choke/thermostat on my 351W is dead. It is the heat type with no electrical assist. I am looking to replace my dead choke/thermostat within electric one. How do I know which one I need based on these facts:
-Motorcraft 2150 carb
-351 winsor motor
-1978 Ford f250
-Carb tag reads something like this: "D7TECTA"

Does anyone know what choke I need for this carb? I'm not really sure which one i need for my truck and I don't really want to buy the wrong one.

 

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i've got the same problem, only the PO put a manual choke on it and that don't work either.

 

Dorman sells a repair kit for the choke hot-air stove to restore your original choke. You can also make a new hot-air stove out of brake line. What is the problem with your current hot-air choke; is the stove gone? Or is the stove there, but the choke cap is dead? Either problems are straightforward to solve (the latter being even easier).

If you find a factory Motorcraft choke with electric assist from another carburetor, it will not work without the original hot-air stove in place. The electric assist on those chokes does not kick in until the choke thermostat reaches a certain temperature - so they rely on the hot-air stove to heat them up first, and the electric assist only kicks in at the end. It's not a fully electric choke.

Holley and Edelbrock sell electric choke kits for their carburetors - however I do not know if they physically fit on a Motorcraft carburetor. They look similar, but I have never tried.

 

As far as I'm aware, my chokecap is the only dead part. My thermostat also doesn't work, but i don't know if that relates to this or not. I'd also rather just replace the heat powered choke with an electric for easier operation. I found a choke cap that says it should fit my carb, the only problem is that the number on the site doesn't match the number on the carb tag. Here's a link to the choke I'm considering: http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Moto...oke_p/1098.htm. Do you think this will fit/ work on my carb?

 

No idea, you might call and ask. If it's a true factory replacement, then it's not what you're looking for. The factory choke needed the hot-air stove to heat it up most of the way, then the electric part kicked in at the end. With an aftermarket one such as this, who knows.

 

My original choke is just the hot air only one. I'll check the carb number next week when its hopefully warmer.

 

If the thermostat is open all the time, i would think that would stop the choke from getting heated up enough. I would think if the truck is really running cool all the time then that could be a problem.

 

I dont think i would change to electric. Just my 2 cent$

 

My temperature gauge in the truck doesn't work, but I can tell that the truck is running very cold even on a warm day. It starts rough, then runs for about a minute, then it dies (or comes close to it). Any ideas? I am positive that the choke cap and the thermostat are dead.

 

A bad thermostat will certainly delay the choke opening in an otherwise functioning setup, but it will open eventually because the heat is taken from an exhaust crossover and not a coolant passage. Regardless of what the choke is doing, if your thermostat is stuck open as you suspect, you must replace this immediately. The engine needs to run at 192 to 195 degrees F; prolonged operation at lower temperatures is bad for the engine. Also do not rely on the factory temperature gauge to tell you much.

What is the actual problem with the choke? What is it doing (or not doing) that it should not (or should) do? Is it stuck closed, but does not open? Is it stuck open and will not close? Does it start closed and open like it should, but open too quickly or too slowly? In each of these cases, you first have to make sure that the heat source is actually present, the choke is set properly, and the linkage is engaged.

With that said, what are the actual symptoms of the choke cap - not the truck in general? What is the choke doing now if you watch it during a cold start? Make sure to answer all these questions. Keep in mind with any carbureted engine, you must press the pedal once before a cold start (not pump) to free the fast idle linkage and load the choke.

 

The chokeplate doesnt open at all even after the engine has warmed up, and the choke cap itself stays ICE cold even after the engine has been (somewhat) running. The choke plate and the rest of the linkage works when I open it manually and hold it open with a screw driver.

 

Does your choke have a heat tube coming from the exhaust manifold. These will rust away allowing no heat to choke.

 

In this case, you don't know if the choke cap works yet because it's not getting heat. The choke cap may be fine, but you have no way of knowing because the heat source is gone. A brand new choke cap will do the same thing.

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