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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 09:27 AM
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Another choke thread

Working on a 1977 F-100, 302/auto, non electric assist choke system. Does anyone here have a part # for a FULL ELECTRIC choke thermostat that will fit, and function in my factory Autolite 2150 carb choke housing?
I know how the hot air choke works, so I don't need a lesson on hooking that up, I just want to convert to full electric choke. The owner of this truck isn't too worried about having all the original heat tubes in place, he just wants the choke to work right, when it needs to. Thanks doe any part #s that will convert this carb to full electric choke.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 12:07 PM
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Rockauto.com lists 2 electric choke thermostats for that truck. You will need the tag number from the carb.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DB429SCJ
Rockauto.com lists 2 electric choke thermostats for that truck. You will need the tag number from the carb.
Both of those will physically fit my D7TE AFA carb, but they're NOT full electric choke heaters. That is the factory, electric assist, type heaters that still rely on the factory piped heated air to activate them before they will begin to heat up using the stator feed wire.
What I want is a choke heater that works solely on 12v, with no heated air required. There has to be one that will slide right in this carb. I hope.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 02:33 PM
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I don't have a number but I can tell you the full electric choke off my old 83 ranger's 2.0 one barrel fit right on my 78 f150s 351m two barrel. I hooked it to the stator wire on the alternator and everything. The ranger was full electric it had no coolant or hot air tubes going to it at all.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 02:40 PM
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Just a little relevant info:
If you end up with a Ford choke, then you want it powered from the Stator terminal on the alternator, which provides AC or alternated current.
Most other brands of choke heaters require 12V+ DC or direct current.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim C
I don't have a number but I can tell you the full electric choke off my old 83 ranger's 2.0 one barrel fit right on my 78 f150s 351m two barrel. I hooked it to the stator wire on the alternator and everything. The ranger was full electric it had no coolant or hot air tubes going to it at all.
That helps, Tim C. Thanks bud.

Originally Posted by meangreen92
Just a little relevant info:
If you end up with a Ford choke, then you want it powered from the Stator terminal on the alternator, which provides AC or alternated current.
Most other brands of choke heaters require 12V+ DC or direct current.
Yup, I know the Ford choke heaters are all wired from the stator terminal on the back of the alternator. Thanks for bringing that back up for others that don't know that, and didn't catch it in my last post.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 07:28 AM
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What I ended up using

This is what I ended up with to put on my 2150. Got it from Mountain Man Fuel Systems. Check out all his carb parts on ebay. I haven't gotten around to getting back on it yet. Will let you know how it works out. Thanks for looking.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/142175315539?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 10:39 PM
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So far this kit has been the ticket. Works flawlessly. Although I haven't had any sub freezing weather here yet.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 02:02 AM
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How long does it take to go from fully closed to fully open upon starting? I was sick of the electric assist and switched to fully manual; my heat tubes were all shot so the choke would never fully open. Never really considered going to full electric...
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by burnthelight88
How long does it take to go from fully closed to fully open upon starting? I was sick of the electric assist and switched to fully manual; my heat tubes were all shot so the choke would never fully open. Never really considered going to full electric...
We've had some low 30s weather, but mainly in the 40s and 50s. From initial fire up to actual idle time has been less than 45 seconds. Initial fire up results in full high idle cam engagement. Tapping the accelerator pedal immediately drops it to the middle notch in the cam. 15-30 seconds later, tap the pedal and it usually drops off and is on the idle set screw and will idle like a champ. On the coldest day, it may have been about 10-15 seconds longer. I'm happy with it.
 
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