51 F1 4x4 conversion "help"
#47
Wouldn't it just be easier to use the coil springs and radius arms?
It seems like a lot of hassle to just to run the stock leaf springs. Personally I'd just dump the leaf spring and mount the coil buckets to the F1 frame.
And I told you how to post pics by using Photobucket. But it seemed like you tried everything but photobucket?
It seems like a lot of hassle to just to run the stock leaf springs. Personally I'd just dump the leaf spring and mount the coil buckets to the F1 frame.
And I told you how to post pics by using Photobucket. But it seemed like you tried everything but photobucket?
#48
Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket click on this link, and try to get through the process if you've never been there before. No need to pay for anything on it.
And since it wasn't said, you MUST have the same gear ratio in both the front and rear axle if you plan to run the same size tires front and rear. So if you don't, it might be cheaper in the long run to find out what your rear axle ratio is, and then find a front axle with a matching gear ratio.
And since it wasn't said, you MUST have the same gear ratio in both the front and rear axle if you plan to run the same size tires front and rear. So if you don't, it might be cheaper in the long run to find out what your rear axle ratio is, and then find a front axle with a matching gear ratio.
#49
Not sure what hassle you're referring to fordman. To yank out one axle, and bolt in another to your leaf springs is a piece of cake - I have done it at least a dozen times. And the engineering is already done for you. To weld in brackets and strengthener's for the coil springs and radius rods to the already flimsey little f1 frame would be a ton of work, not to mention, maybe not a cery good idea safety wise. And the axle still needs to be narrowed, which is mostly just labor.
On the photo thing, you spelled it "photbucket", and another site came up - which I used - all seemed to go according to hoil, but no photo got downloaded. I will now try "photobucket". (I copied photbucket and pasted it into my browser.)
Also, thanks for the warning on gear ratios front and back - know all about that - and the new axle is the same as my rear.. thanks again guys.. oh, and BTW, for some reason Dana 44's out here in Colorado are priced like they are gold plated...... 7 - 8 hundred bucks..??
On the photo thing, you spelled it "photbucket", and another site came up - which I used - all seemed to go according to hoil, but no photo got downloaded. I will now try "photobucket". (I copied photbucket and pasted it into my browser.)
Also, thanks for the warning on gear ratios front and back - know all about that - and the new axle is the same as my rear.. thanks again guys.. oh, and BTW, for some reason Dana 44's out here in Colorado are priced like they are gold plated...... 7 - 8 hundred bucks..??
#52
Not sure what hassle you're referring to fordman. To yank out one axle, and bolt in another to your leaf springs is a piece of cake - I have done it at least a dozen times. And the engineering is already done for you. To weld in brackets and strengthener's for the coil springs and radius rods to the already flimsey little f1 frame would be a ton of work, not to mention, maybe not a cery good idea safety wise. And the axle still needs to be narrowed, which is mostly just labor.
On the photo thing, you spelled it "photbucket", and another site came up - which I used - all seemed to go according to hoil, but no photo got downloaded. I will now try "photobucket". (I copied photbucket and pasted it into my browser.)
Also, thanks for the warning on gear ratios front and back - know all about that - and the new axle is the same as my rear.. thanks again guys.. oh, and BTW, for some reason Dana 44's out here in Colorado are priced like they are gold plated...... 7 - 8 hundred bucks..??
On the photo thing, you spelled it "photbucket", and another site came up - which I used - all seemed to go according to hoil, but no photo got downloaded. I will now try "photobucket". (I copied photbucket and pasted it into my browser.)
Also, thanks for the warning on gear ratios front and back - know all about that - and the new axle is the same as my rear.. thanks again guys.. oh, and BTW, for some reason Dana 44's out here in Colorado are priced like they are gold plated...... 7 - 8 hundred bucks..??
The hassle I'm referring to is cutting off the radius arm wedges and modifying the center section to do a "bolt in swap". And if the F1 frame is so flimsy then maybe it's time to think about about a frame swap or beefing up the frame.
Obviously "photbucket" was a typo. I guess no one here ever has a typo or incorrect spelling on anything. But I also provided the correct link on post #27. Yet you obviously didn't check it out.
I was trying to offer a suggestion but you've done this " a dozen times" so you don't need any help. Good luck on your project.
#53
#55
Hey havi - thanks to fordman I can now post a pic... I've got the 79 Bronco 44 all figured out. I have found several posts on the web showing how to do it, and it's not any more work than cutting the C's off an early 44, and re-weld it.
They both are about the same amount of work. The older ones you just cut the C off, shorten the tube, stick it back in the hub and weld it up. The '79 Brono 44, you just cut the tube just inside the cast in wedge piece, cut the tube, stick it back in the cast in wedge piece, and weld it up. I think you guys are thinking that the cast in coil spring seat/radius arm wedge piece is in my way. But since my leaf spring centers are 29", and the coil spring seats centers are somewhere around 40", there is no conflict with my springs and the radius arm wedges. I have photos of these swaps but there in a word document copied off the web, and so I can't upload them to Photobucket, But I think I "can" post a photo finally - lets see if it works - it's a pic of the little f1 taking us to church - here goes....th_35.jpg?t=1328846838
They both are about the same amount of work. The older ones you just cut the C off, shorten the tube, stick it back in the hub and weld it up. The '79 Brono 44, you just cut the tube just inside the cast in wedge piece, cut the tube, stick it back in the cast in wedge piece, and weld it up. I think you guys are thinking that the cast in coil spring seat/radius arm wedge piece is in my way. But since my leaf spring centers are 29", and the coil spring seats centers are somewhere around 40", there is no conflict with my springs and the radius arm wedges. I have photos of these swaps but there in a word document copied off the web, and so I can't upload them to Photobucket, But I think I "can" post a photo finally - lets see if it works - it's a pic of the little f1 taking us to church - here goes....th_35.jpg?t=1328846838
#56
good point havi, but mine isn't one of the popular ones.. and I missed oyur point re finding an early broco d-44. I spent a long time looking, and finally gave up, and went for the '79 d-44 I've got. But I would be interested in knowing how you I go about finding an early bronco 44. thanks
#57
Early Broncos had the Dana 30, then Dana 44. Here's a link on how to tell them apart. How to tell if your Early Bronco has a Dana 30 or Dana 44 Front End. - Tom's Bronco Parts You'll just have to search for one just like any other part.
This is the axle JPB222 used, w/coil springs. I plan to go this route someday if I decide to do it. (I have a complete '66 Bronco running gear) As far as using the leaf springs, like you had planned, I would probably go with a narrowed F250 Dana 44, using the F150 Dana spindles, hubs, rotors, etc... I have an F250 Dana I plan to use someday in an old conversion like this also. It's just part of using parts of what I have laying around for the last few years, lol.
Anyway, I see nothing wrong with going the planned route you have picked. Just a bit of work is all.
This is the axle JPB222 used, w/coil springs. I plan to go this route someday if I decide to do it. (I have a complete '66 Bronco running gear) As far as using the leaf springs, like you had planned, I would probably go with a narrowed F250 Dana 44, using the F150 Dana spindles, hubs, rotors, etc... I have an F250 Dana I plan to use someday in an old conversion like this also. It's just part of using parts of what I have laying around for the last few years, lol.
Anyway, I see nothing wrong with going the planned route you have picked. Just a bit of work is all.
#58
#59
#60
51 F1 Marmon Herrington
Yes, I did a 4x4 conversion in my 51 F1. I did not use the coil spring Dana 44 set up as I discovered that because of the coil spring perch you cannot narrow the axle enough to get the correct width. I see so many of these conversions that do not look good because the wheels stick out too far. I used a Dana 44 out of a 77 F150 Super Cab, as this year truck and model for some reason came with the Dana 44 built for leaf springs. I narrowed it a total of about 7.5 inches. Roughly (don't remember exactly) 2.5 inches off the drivers side, and about 5 inches off the passenger side. Did all this myself, but had to send the axles out to be shortened. The narrowing of the axle was a big job, and had to be perfect. Had a pro do the final welding. The final width was to match a Ford 9 inch in the rear out of a 71 F150. Bolted up the the stock springs perfectly, just had to fab some shock towers
. I have a 302/AOD in my F1 and had to make some custom motor mounts for differential clearance. Had to use a steering arm off of Chevy Dana 44 (I think), had to alter the drag link to hook up to the steering arm, etc. And had to use a small diameter front driveshaft like in the old jeeps to clear everything. Also used a divorce type NP205 transfer case, with stock lever but self fabbed shifter bracket. Was lots of work and fun. And now works perfect. Bob
. I have a 302/AOD in my F1 and had to make some custom motor mounts for differential clearance. Had to use a steering arm off of Chevy Dana 44 (I think), had to alter the drag link to hook up to the steering arm, etc. And had to use a small diameter front driveshaft like in the old jeeps to clear everything. Also used a divorce type NP205 transfer case, with stock lever but self fabbed shifter bracket. Was lots of work and fun. And now works perfect. Bob