Great point jp. So I have decided this is the "only" way to go, especially since I am running used stuff, and who knows how long my AOD will last. So it will be much easier to replace tranny's without having to mess with a married T/C. And my backup 302 is identical to what I have in the truck - mid 80's 302 convert to carb w/AOD. This package, once rebuilt will eventually go into the f1. More reasons to go with the divorced T/C.

I am going with an "axle over spring" approach, to keep it as low as possible, having Alcan make custom springs so I get enough clearance.

jp, what type of steering set up did you go with? Were you able to keep the stock steering box, etc. I want to keep the stock steering box (actually going with a Toyota power steering setup from bobsf100.com). Thanks

 

re my previous post - I tried to post an image using Imagehosting.com - doesn't look like it worked - :-{

 

Here is the post where I described building mine, you can see what I had to do to use the stock steering box...which is what I really wanted to do with my truck.. make it look and feel as much as possible like a 50's 4x4 conversion.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...d-f-1-4x4.html

if you springs have enough arch you can consider a PS box in front of the axle. like a scout, early bronco, f-150 4x4 etc..etc...

 

WOW jp, what a great thread - and article. You have helped me immensely!! So now I can get all these engineering nightmares out of my head - and get some sleep - lol.

"thanks"

 

jp, also, you don't need to go to the trouble of digin' out that Dana for measurements. Since I have decided to go with the np205, I have found one at one of our local dismantler's. Its totally blown - when spinning the yokes, lots of crunching-grinding sounds emit ... so I have those dimensions, which will work fine. "thanks"

 

Glad I could help, good luck and have fun!!!!

 

10-4

I'm on the same mission as you... trying to do this with the least amount of $$$ possible. Found the truck in Darby, MT a few years ago. Picked up the complete 302 package for $225. The 9' rear for $200 - drive shaft mod - $150, seats, wheels and brand new tires off of a Ford Ranger project, the guy was unemployed - got all of that for $250. The most expensive part was the Lokar 24" AOD floor shifter kit $350.00 (ouch). And new front/rear glass $340.00. Not doin' too bad. And the original patina (powder blue oem paint, and rust) is so cool, don't plan on spending any $$$ on body work and paint.

I'll keep you all posted on progress - and "thanks again",

Bob

 

Welcome to the board!!

As you can see you found the friendliest place on the net for us Ford truck maniacs.

Good luck with your truck

Bobby

 

Yeah Bobby - pretty "awesome" - only wish I could post some photos. I went to freeimaging.com, uploaded my photo, pasted the url into the FTE Forum photo pasty thingy... a "VOILA".... nothing.... zip..... nada...... zilch.

Maybe I have to be a member longer.

 

Yeah Bobby - pretty "awesome" site!! musch thanks to everybody for their generous assistance - even makes this project "more funner" - - only wish I could post some photos. I went to freeimaging.com, uploaded my photo, pasted the url into the FTE Forum photo pasty thingy... and "VOILA".... nothing.... zip..... nada...... zilch.

Maybe I have to be a member longer than just a few days - lol

I would also like to learn how to insert all of my "life-long FOMOCO's"

 

I'll add my welcome, too!

FWIW, the BW1356 and NP208 were designed around a 37.5" wide frame with tall enough frame rails to fit inside a bit. These were 1980 and newer.

The '79 and older F100 and F150 had the same 37.5" frame out back, but a 34" wide front half. That's how the front axle would work from the '79 Bronco (only 2" difference). Also, the NP205 (and NP203, don't bother with that) was designed to fit this chassis, and thus is plenty narrow enough for the '80 and newer frames. Also, the BW1356 can fit a '79 and earlier half ton with some clearancing of the aluminum case. It will not fit a '79 and earlier frame if left alone. It will not fit the early trucks due to a difference in rail height, as the BW1356 in my '79 Bronco has the clearanced tcase fitting "inside" the rail a bit. The early Bronco with their Dana 20's are a good candidate, but as JPB222 said, we tend to hang onto our parts til death, lol. Anyway, the "hi-boy" F250 of the '73-77 era had divorced NP205 tcases (some had the smaller Dana 21 or 24, I forget which) and they kept the 34" wide frame like your F1's back half would be, and therefore the divorced NP205 would be your best candidate regardless of what type of tranny you have. As long as you have a 2wd tranny with a yoke, you can use a short shaft, and the rear driveshaft would remain unchanged between the tcase and rear axle. Clear as mud? lol

 

Thanks havi ... havi?? and hey, great pic of you... too... ;-) (looks like you would have a great appetite - for "Saber Tooth Tiger... ? :0~

But really, thanks for this great info.. as I stated to jp, you guys at FTE have quelled my fears, and I am now sleeping all night like a baby... well, a 66 y/o "never" sleeps like a baby - but thanks to all you guys for answering all of my engineering nightmares. Hope to post some photos someday.

 

oh.....I figured I may mention something else that may end up messing up your sleep schedule.

I you plan on going with leaf springs or want to narrow your axle you may run into an issue If your axle housing has "cast on" coil spring wedges....these types of wedges cannot be ground off unless you cut them out completely and re-tube your axles.

You may have lucked out and got a pair of welded on wedges....these can be cut off the tube and ground down. most all 66-77 front dana 44's were the weld on type but a lot of the later 78 and 79 trucks and bronco's had the cast on type.

If your are the cast on type you may want to consider a different front axle...if you are not doing the tube work yourself.

 

Yeah, I have heard of this problem. But have also read somewhere that they can be shorten'd at the pumpkin. So instead of removing the outer C's, you can cut off the tube where you need at the diff housing, and insert and reweld there. The spring spacing on the f1 is like around 29", so, supposedly the coil spring wedge can just be left as is. Since you have "been-there-done-that", sort of, does this approach sound feasible? I think my axles are not the weld on spring wedges type. May be a bummer. dang, just when I was gettin' some sleep.... I'm going to do all but the welding myself, so maybe re-tube the whole thing won't be that expensive. Do you know if that tubing is available?

Looking at the pictures in your FTE thread, the coil spring pad might just fit in the space outside of the leaf spring perch. I am in Montana right now for another few weeks, so I can't go out and measure them...

 

I just went to my "f1 4x4 conversion" archives, and I have a copy of a thread from a jeep forum, where the guy used the same Dana 44 as I've got (with the fully cast spring pad wedges) his center to center of leaf springs was 32" (mine are 29"). He cut off the required inches from the tube on the punkin side of the cast spring pack pieces. I would guess cutting the tube and getting it out of the cast spring pack wedge would be about the same as getting it out of the C unit. Waddya' think?