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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 05:51 PM
  #1  
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Dp switch order

Im about to order a dp tuner and wondering if the order of switch positions is a big deal. I'm purchasing the F5, and want to get it right the first time.
No start, stock, lop idle, 80E, 60tow, 80tow, brake, 120race.

Thanks
 
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 06:06 PM
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Almost how I have mine... I would put your brake/decel tune between your two tow tunes so you'll only have to hit it once to engage your brake. As for the rest, I like it... mine goes like this:

0=no start, 1=stock, 2=80e, 3=120r, 4=80t, 5=60t, 6=40t

I put my race tune after my economy tunes just because I'm empty more than I tow and I didn't want to have to dial through my tow tunes (I have alot) just to get to my race tune.

Just my $.02
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by trevstaff
Im about to order a dp tuner and wondering if the order of switch positions is a big deal. I'm purchasing the F5, and want to get it right the first time.
No start, stock, lop idle, 80E, 60tow, 80tow, brake, 120race.

Thanks
I put my decel tune between my 60T and 80T tunes,I see you have lope idle listed,this is just me but the lope idle was cool for awhile,it smokes when engaged so I would roll up and start smoking out my friends to annoy them,but it's a tune I don't really use anymore,if I was you I would replace it with a high idle tune,they're great for warming in the winter and cooling in the summer,it's handy if you need to jump start another vehicle too..Phil
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by schlepprock250
it's handy if you need to jump start another vehicle too..Phil
Just a reminder, Phil, you NEVER want YOUR engine running when jumping another vehicle to get THAT ONE started.

You want to use your BATTERIES, NOT your alternator, to get the other one running.

It can be really hard on your alternator's diodes if you do it any other way.

If you wish to put a little charge into the other vehicle's battery before attempting to start it, that's OK, but when it comes time to crank the other's starter motor, shut yours OFF first.

Just sayin'.....

Pop
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Just a reminder, Phil, you NEVER want YOUR engine running when jumping another vehicle to get THAT ONE started.

You want to use your BATTERIES, NOT your alternator, to get the other one running.

It can be really hard on your alternator's diodes if you do it any other way.

If you wish to put a little charge into the other vehicle's battery before attempting to start it, that's OK, but when it comes time to crank the other's starter motor, shut yours OFF first.

Just sayin'.....

Pop
Thx Marv..
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 12:19 PM
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I would put the lope in between no start and stock, then the brake between the to tow tunes as mentioned.

I have high idle between no start and stock. It is one of those things you probably don't want to inadvertently go into if switching on the fly.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 12:27 PM
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I still have my lope idle,I have it at the #8 slot,last in line...see sig...lol
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 12:52 PM
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Any suggestions on what hi idle?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 01:35 PM
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I went with 1100 RPMs...
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 05:03 PM
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Where and why (from the pea brain of Tugly)
0 No start - Obvious

1 Warmup Idle or Hi Idle - be specific with this one. Hi Idle (jumper/charge mode) will not have the EBPV activated, where Warmup uses more exhaust backpressure to speed up warming the engine. I have 1100 Warmup in the cold North.

2 Stock - I call this "Stealth" and it has its uses.

3 80e - If you're like me, your truck will pretty much live here for daily driving.

4 120 Race - C'mon, you think you're going to want to click several times just right to "get on it" from your 80e? I see the scenario... 80e down the highway and a riceburner or a truck is ******* a hill or just driving too slow on a 2-lane. One click to 120r and you are in "Instapass" mode, then one click back to normal so you can see behind you again. Surfing for the right tune at that critical moment on the highway will likely put you in Decel and you'll just plain look goofy. Go ahead, tell me I'm wrong on this one - I can take it.

5 80t or 60t, depending on what you pull and how often. 60t pulls a bigger load, so If you are more likely to pull big, it goes here. If you have something lighter that you pull on a regular basis, 80t goes here.

6 Decel - one click away from either tow tune.

7 Whichever least-used tow tune you didn't pick for position 5.

8 Whatever trips your trigger here - Lope might be OK the first few times, but it gets old fast. Maybe you'd prefer a Quiet tune for ordering a coffee at the driveup, pay a road toll, or B.S. out the window... that has more practical purpose than fun factor.

$0.02

Oh... I went F6 and twisted my tunes until I got the order I found most useful. That's where I derive my input from. I don't regret the extra coin of the F6 - not even for an instant.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Just a reminder, Phil, you NEVER want YOUR engine running when jumping another vehicle to get THAT ONE started.

You want to use your BATTERIES, NOT your alternator, to get the other one running.

It can be really hard on your alternator's diodes if you do it any other way.

If you wish to put a little charge into the other vehicle's battery before attempting to start it, that's OK, but when it comes time to crank the other's starter motor, shut yours OFF first.

Just sayin'.....

Pop
Really? Well then OOPS. Guess that may explain why I go through an alternator about every 16 months. Thank god for warranties only had to pay for the first one. Good to know. I'll start changing my methods when jump starting. Thanks for the tip!
 
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