E4OD to ZF5 - In Process
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Southern West Virginia
E4OD to ZF5 - In Process
I'm new to FTE, and I'm a new Ford Truck owner. I recently bought my '97 F250 7.3 PSD Extended Cab Long Bed truck after months of searching for a 7.3 and lots of research. I finally found this one and bought it. So far, it's been a great truck, except that it's an Auto (E4OD) and I really wanted a manual. I didn't know about any of the troubles that many folks have this this trans, until my O/D light began blinking and I began researching. My father-in-law has owned a lot of 92-96 F series trucks, so he has a lot of good advice to offer, and he's a great mechanic. He told me that the E4OD is known for having problems behind the diesels, and that the 5-speed was much better during these years. So, we decided to consider doing a swap and recently began looking for a donor truck. This website has been a great asset for information about doing the swap, and I want to start this post to follow my progress with the swap and post lessons-learned for others to use, and also because I know I will run into problems along the way. I welcome any comments, advice, notes, suggestions, or corrections along the way.
We found our donor truck this last Tuesday in an ad in our local trading paper. It's a '94 F250 IDI (so we thought) ECLB with the ZF5, so it is perfect as a donor truck. My father-in-law stumbled on a poorly written, non-descriptive ad in the paper and called, and luckily it was prefect. Price...$750. So I took it, knowing that this was as close as I would come to getting my exact truck. Runs good and drives good.
We began tearing into the donor today to get all the parts off we need. As we were taking the seats out, we noticed the center cover off the engine (Not sure of the exact terminology) sitting in the back seat. We picked it up, and saw the "Direct Injected" writing. The guy we bought it from said that it was not a Powerstroke, and we didn't really need the engine, so we never thought twice. So we did some research, and found that you can tell if it's a PSD by the 8th digit in the VIN. If it's a PSD, the digit will be an "F". If it's an IDI, it will be a "K". It was an "F"! So it was a PSD! We were pretty stoked about that, since I could use the flywheel and clutch (if it was in good shape). If it was an IDI, i'd have to get all new. Plus, my father-in-law was looking to get a PSD for an F350 he's rebuilding. Win-Win.
Then, my father-in-law was doing something under the hood and saw a sticker that said the truck was equipped with a solid mass flywheel...etc. So, someone had already upgraded to a solid-mass flywheel and HD clutch, which I wanted to to anyway. When we pulled the trans out, it really did have a solid-mass flywheel and HD clutch, and they were in pretty good shape. I think I hit the lottery. I can't believe my luck.
Anyway, we got all the parts out (I think) that we need to do the swap. Here's the list...unless I forget some:
-Front and rear driveshafts
-Transfer Case (1356, but I think I'm going to use my 4407 in my '97)
-ZF5, clutch, flywheel, and big spacer thingy behind flywheel (don't know what it's called)
-Wiring Harness
-Crossmember
-Master/Slave Cylinder
-Pedal Assembly
-Center Hump ( it just unbolts) and shifter
-Steering Column Cover
-Starter (not sure if we need it or not)
It will probably be a few weeks before we tear in to my 97. I've got to get a new throw-out bearing, and we've got to clean the trans down really good. So, I think we've got a pretty good start, but there are a few things we're still not sure of. I'll list them here:
1) Will my 4407 TC work in lieu of the 1356? We took some measurements and it looks like it should fit. I'm sure someone has done this who would know.
2) I've read about some wiring modifications that need to be made. Does anyone have any good documentations or diagrams of this? I'm not sure where the mods need to be made. (To get the Cruise, Back Up Lights, etc to work and get the neutral safety switch to be operational. I think the neutral safety switch will just plug into existing plugs, but I've read that guys can't initially start the truck with the key until mods are made.)
3) Will the PCM from the Auto work? From what I've read, it will ,but does it need to be "flashed" to a manual?
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to get this kicked off. Hope nobody minds.
Again, any comments are welcome at any time. Thanks in advance to all those who have way more expertise than me. I'll post as we progress.
We found our donor truck this last Tuesday in an ad in our local trading paper. It's a '94 F250 IDI (so we thought) ECLB with the ZF5, so it is perfect as a donor truck. My father-in-law stumbled on a poorly written, non-descriptive ad in the paper and called, and luckily it was prefect. Price...$750. So I took it, knowing that this was as close as I would come to getting my exact truck. Runs good and drives good.
We began tearing into the donor today to get all the parts off we need. As we were taking the seats out, we noticed the center cover off the engine (Not sure of the exact terminology) sitting in the back seat. We picked it up, and saw the "Direct Injected" writing. The guy we bought it from said that it was not a Powerstroke, and we didn't really need the engine, so we never thought twice. So we did some research, and found that you can tell if it's a PSD by the 8th digit in the VIN. If it's a PSD, the digit will be an "F". If it's an IDI, it will be a "K". It was an "F"! So it was a PSD! We were pretty stoked about that, since I could use the flywheel and clutch (if it was in good shape). If it was an IDI, i'd have to get all new. Plus, my father-in-law was looking to get a PSD for an F350 he's rebuilding. Win-Win.
Then, my father-in-law was doing something under the hood and saw a sticker that said the truck was equipped with a solid mass flywheel...etc. So, someone had already upgraded to a solid-mass flywheel and HD clutch, which I wanted to to anyway. When we pulled the trans out, it really did have a solid-mass flywheel and HD clutch, and they were in pretty good shape. I think I hit the lottery. I can't believe my luck.
Anyway, we got all the parts out (I think) that we need to do the swap. Here's the list...unless I forget some:
-Front and rear driveshafts
-Transfer Case (1356, but I think I'm going to use my 4407 in my '97)
-ZF5, clutch, flywheel, and big spacer thingy behind flywheel (don't know what it's called)
-Wiring Harness
-Crossmember
-Master/Slave Cylinder
-Pedal Assembly
-Center Hump ( it just unbolts) and shifter
-Steering Column Cover
-Starter (not sure if we need it or not)
It will probably be a few weeks before we tear in to my 97. I've got to get a new throw-out bearing, and we've got to clean the trans down really good. So, I think we've got a pretty good start, but there are a few things we're still not sure of. I'll list them here:
1) Will my 4407 TC work in lieu of the 1356? We took some measurements and it looks like it should fit. I'm sure someone has done this who would know.
2) I've read about some wiring modifications that need to be made. Does anyone have any good documentations or diagrams of this? I'm not sure where the mods need to be made. (To get the Cruise, Back Up Lights, etc to work and get the neutral safety switch to be operational. I think the neutral safety switch will just plug into existing plugs, but I've read that guys can't initially start the truck with the key until mods are made.)
3) Will the PCM from the Auto work? From what I've read, it will ,but does it need to be "flashed" to a manual?
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to get this kicked off. Hope nobody minds.
Again, any comments are welcome at any time. Thanks in advance to all those who have way more expertise than me. I'll post as we progress.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 115
I've got a 1996. When I swapped in a S5-42 from an old IDI, I used the transfer case from my 1996. I've never heard of anyone having any problems doing it that way. Also, the PCM in the truck is the automatic one, and it works just fine. I haven't had it flashed yet. You may have to do some modifications to the donor wiring harness to make it work. It's not too tough. With a little guidance from someone who had done it, I did it no problem. I don't know if that will be relevant, though, since your donor is a Powerstroke.
Good luck. I've done the swap, so let me know if you have trouble and I'll see if I can help you. I'm going to go ahead and give you the link to my thread.
My Transmission Thread
Good luck. I've done the swap, so let me know if you have trouble and I'll see if I can help you. I'm going to go ahead and give you the link to my thread.
My Transmission Thread
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 584
Likes: 0
From: Southern West Virginia
Anyone familiar with the wiring mods - I welcome any advice I can get. Thanks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 6
From: College Station, TX
-Front and rear driveshafts
-Transfer Case (1356, but I think I'm going to use my 4407 in my '97)
-ZF5, clutch, flywheel, and big spacer thingy behind flywheel (don't know what it's called)
If you're talking about the aluminum adapter plate, you don't need it. It's the same as what's already on your truck. If there's a spacer directly between the flywheel and crank it's out of place. The flywheel typically bolts directly to the motor.
-Wiring Harness
-Crossmember
-Master/Slave Cylinder
-Pedal Assembly
-Center Hump ( it just unbolts) and shifter
-Steering Column Cover
-Starter (not sure if we need it or not)
Nope. Universal fit for 7.3L PSDs(and maybe older IDIs too) although the super duty ones are different(and better).
Add to the list the black plate from the donor to replace your PRND21 indicator.
1) Will my 4407 TC work in lieu of the 1356?
Sure will. It may connect to the driveshaft different that the 1356. If so, just take the flange off of the front of your original drive shaft and put it on front of new driveshaft. Still may be some spacing issues to resolve since it is not a slip joint. I did this and had exactly one inch to fill between t case mount and driveshaft.
2) I've read about some wiring modifications that need to be made. Does anyone have any good documentations or diagrams of this? I'm not sure where the mods need to be made. (To get the Cruise, Back Up Lights, etc to work and get the neutral safety switch to be operational. I think the neutral safety switch will just plug into existing plugs, but I've read that guys can't initially start the truck with the key until mods are made.)
If you have cruise now and keep your PCM it will not be effected. Once/if you flash it to a manual then you will have some wiring to address but not a huge deal. Your reverse light should already work when you put the manual harness on. Your 4x4 indicators probably won't work and your truck won't fire with the key. Moving three wires in the manual harness will fix this no problem. If you want neutral safety then you just have to remove the cap on the harness under the dash and put on a clutch starter switch from a parts store or your donor. I personally like being able to start my truck without the clutch in but there is risk involved.
It's literally all plug and play until a PCM reflash with the exception of moving the three wires in the harness which takes all of 15 miinutes. I'm not sure if there are any wiring issues if you use a manual PCM.
3) Will the PCM from the Auto work? From what I've read, it will ,but does it need to be "flashed" to a manual?
It will be just fine. Mine ran better when flashed to manual but I attributed most of that to the tuning I also had done. Did have to splice some pins to get the cruise to work after the flash though.
-Transfer Case (1356, but I think I'm going to use my 4407 in my '97)
-ZF5, clutch, flywheel, and big spacer thingy behind flywheel (don't know what it's called)
If you're talking about the aluminum adapter plate, you don't need it. It's the same as what's already on your truck. If there's a spacer directly between the flywheel and crank it's out of place. The flywheel typically bolts directly to the motor.
-Wiring Harness
-Crossmember
-Master/Slave Cylinder
-Pedal Assembly
-Center Hump ( it just unbolts) and shifter
-Steering Column Cover
-Starter (not sure if we need it or not)
Nope. Universal fit for 7.3L PSDs(and maybe older IDIs too) although the super duty ones are different(and better).
Add to the list the black plate from the donor to replace your PRND21 indicator.
1) Will my 4407 TC work in lieu of the 1356?
Sure will. It may connect to the driveshaft different that the 1356. If so, just take the flange off of the front of your original drive shaft and put it on front of new driveshaft. Still may be some spacing issues to resolve since it is not a slip joint. I did this and had exactly one inch to fill between t case mount and driveshaft.
2) I've read about some wiring modifications that need to be made. Does anyone have any good documentations or diagrams of this? I'm not sure where the mods need to be made. (To get the Cruise, Back Up Lights, etc to work and get the neutral safety switch to be operational. I think the neutral safety switch will just plug into existing plugs, but I've read that guys can't initially start the truck with the key until mods are made.)
If you have cruise now and keep your PCM it will not be effected. Once/if you flash it to a manual then you will have some wiring to address but not a huge deal. Your reverse light should already work when you put the manual harness on. Your 4x4 indicators probably won't work and your truck won't fire with the key. Moving three wires in the manual harness will fix this no problem. If you want neutral safety then you just have to remove the cap on the harness under the dash and put on a clutch starter switch from a parts store or your donor. I personally like being able to start my truck without the clutch in but there is risk involved.
It's literally all plug and play until a PCM reflash with the exception of moving the three wires in the harness which takes all of 15 miinutes. I'm not sure if there are any wiring issues if you use a manual PCM.
3) Will the PCM from the Auto work? From what I've read, it will ,but does it need to be "flashed" to a manual?
It will be just fine. Mine ran better when flashed to manual but I attributed most of that to the tuning I also had done. Did have to splice some pins to get the cruise to work after the flash though.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 6
From: College Station, TX
Here's some useful-ish threads and such:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...peed-swap.html
Info on ZF S5-42
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/download/S5-42.pdf
Original question:
My best attempt at an answer:
<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->I forgot to tell you the other day. I don't think IDI to PSD matters. I'm pretty sure it is strictly an auto to manual differnce in the pin settings. My donor was a 95 PSD. Yours and Kris's were IDIs but we all required the same wire changes.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...peed-swap.html
Info on ZF S5-42
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/download/S5-42.pdf
Original question:
Originally Posted by dan7.3stroke
im working on a zf5 s42 swap were the e40d was and not sure how to elimnate the neutral saftey switch at the trans could someone please help?
Originally Posted by Redman84
If you are using the harness for the ZF then you've eliminated nuetral safety by proxy of removing the E4OD harness. There is a series of circuits that have to be completed before your truck will start with the key. I think there are three: One under the dash, one on the trans wiring harness, and one at the key.
No matter your trans configuration the key portion is the same. Turn key to start position=circuit closed.
There is a harness under the dash that, on an automatic, just has a dead end jumper wired correctly to keep the circuit closed. That same harness is present on a manual. This is where you would find the clutch-starter interlock switch - the thing that goes around the clutch rod and plugs into the harness. It has a series of wiring that when the clutch is pressed it closes the circuit that is always closed by the auto trans jumper=truck cranks when key turns. When the clutch is out the circuit is open and your truck will not start with the key.
The other is on the trans harness. The main harness from the truck that the trans harness plugs into has two pins that have to be connected in order for the truck to fire when the key turns. On the auto trans there is a rotating part at the end of the harness that moves when you change gears. In the P and N positions the circuit is closed and the truck fires when the key is turned. Subsequently it is wired so that the circuit is left open in all other positions so that the truck will not fire by the key when left in gear.
So...when swapping from auto you have many options. Under the dash: you can use the jumper from the auto setup. This will allow the truck to be started without the clutch in. Gotta be carfeul though because it also allows the truck to be cranked while in gear. OR...You can buy a clutch-starter interlock switch, put it on the clutch pushrod, and plug it into the harness. Now, the clutch has to be pressed in to crank by the key.
On the trans harness you can: use the auto harness, plug it into the main truck harness, plug it into your t-case if 4x4, put the rotating switch in the P or N position, and tie that part up out of the way. This will allow your truck to crank with the key as long as the under dash circuit has been addressed, your 4x4 indicator lights will work(if applicable), but WILL NOT activate your reverse lights. You can use the manual harness but you may have to move the wires around. It has five wires(if 4x4). One positive and one negative for the reverse lights, one positive and one negative for 4x4 lights, and a red/blue one that comes out of and then goes right back into the head of the harness. The red/blue is what closes the trans-harness circuit in a manual since the truck really has no clue whether or not the trans is in gear. This is also the reason that there is a need for a clutch-activated switch. The auto always has closed circuit under the dash and is dependant on rotation of the trans harness to a closed position, the manual always has a closed harness circuit and is dependant on the clutch switch. In a factory configuration, for safety reasons, either vehicle CANNOT start while in a gear.
I used the jumper under the dash because I like being able to start the truck without getting in but I am the only person who drives it. Not much room for someone unfamiliar to crank it in gear. But for that occasion I have a clutch-starter interlock switch in the glovebox. And for the trans harness I used a manual harness from a 95. I had to move the wires around to the positions they were in on the auto harness from my 96. I just used a multimeter and searched the pins for continuity from one end to the other for the indicator and reverse lights and for the red/blue wire I searched for continuity within the head of the auto harness to see what pins composed the closed circuit when in P or N and positioned the red/blue wire accordingly within the manual harness.
Hopefully this makes a little sense. It's actually pretty simple with eyes on the different harnesses and parts.
No matter your trans configuration the key portion is the same. Turn key to start position=circuit closed.
There is a harness under the dash that, on an automatic, just has a dead end jumper wired correctly to keep the circuit closed. That same harness is present on a manual. This is where you would find the clutch-starter interlock switch - the thing that goes around the clutch rod and plugs into the harness. It has a series of wiring that when the clutch is pressed it closes the circuit that is always closed by the auto trans jumper=truck cranks when key turns. When the clutch is out the circuit is open and your truck will not start with the key.
The other is on the trans harness. The main harness from the truck that the trans harness plugs into has two pins that have to be connected in order for the truck to fire when the key turns. On the auto trans there is a rotating part at the end of the harness that moves when you change gears. In the P and N positions the circuit is closed and the truck fires when the key is turned. Subsequently it is wired so that the circuit is left open in all other positions so that the truck will not fire by the key when left in gear.
So...when swapping from auto you have many options. Under the dash: you can use the jumper from the auto setup. This will allow the truck to be started without the clutch in. Gotta be carfeul though because it also allows the truck to be cranked while in gear. OR...You can buy a clutch-starter interlock switch, put it on the clutch pushrod, and plug it into the harness. Now, the clutch has to be pressed in to crank by the key.
On the trans harness you can: use the auto harness, plug it into the main truck harness, plug it into your t-case if 4x4, put the rotating switch in the P or N position, and tie that part up out of the way. This will allow your truck to crank with the key as long as the under dash circuit has been addressed, your 4x4 indicator lights will work(if applicable), but WILL NOT activate your reverse lights. You can use the manual harness but you may have to move the wires around. It has five wires(if 4x4). One positive and one negative for the reverse lights, one positive and one negative for 4x4 lights, and a red/blue one that comes out of and then goes right back into the head of the harness. The red/blue is what closes the trans-harness circuit in a manual since the truck really has no clue whether or not the trans is in gear. This is also the reason that there is a need for a clutch-activated switch. The auto always has closed circuit under the dash and is dependant on rotation of the trans harness to a closed position, the manual always has a closed harness circuit and is dependant on the clutch switch. In a factory configuration, for safety reasons, either vehicle CANNOT start while in a gear.
I used the jumper under the dash because I like being able to start the truck without getting in but I am the only person who drives it. Not much room for someone unfamiliar to crank it in gear. But for that occasion I have a clutch-starter interlock switch in the glovebox. And for the trans harness I used a manual harness from a 95. I had to move the wires around to the positions they were in on the auto harness from my 96. I just used a multimeter and searched the pins for continuity from one end to the other for the indicator and reverse lights and for the red/blue wire I searched for continuity within the head of the auto harness to see what pins composed the closed circuit when in P or N and positioned the red/blue wire accordingly within the manual harness.
Hopefully this makes a little sense. It's actually pretty simple with eyes on the different harnesses and parts.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 584
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From: Southern West Virginia
redman 84,
1) I am talking about the aluminum adapter plate. I wasn't sure if my e40d had it on there or not, but we slid it off anyway, just in case.
2) We were planning on using the black plate - I forgot that, but we haven't torn into the dash yet...just the steering column cover.
3) TC - I remember reading your thread about having to put the spacer in. We've planned on potentially having to do that, but were hoping not to have to do it.
4) I do have cruise now. I'll use all the great info you provided and have to go look at the truck to tell. Like you said - probably easier when you're looking at it.
-One other question that I forgot - We were looking at the key release assembly (push to release the ignition key) on the steering column. Does that mechanism need to be removed from the manual and swapped as well? My auto does not have a "push to release" button, but we figured that it might just be built into the Auto shifter so when you put it in park, it allows you to turn the ignition back and pull the key out. We assume, at this point, that we will have to swap this assembly out.
I'm sure there will be more questions to come.
Oh, and as a side note, we were pretty excited to find that someone had replaced the stock leaf pack on the donor with springs from an F350 (it has 7 leafs in the pack), so I'll be swapping that over to my truck as well. All I need now is a dana 60 Solid front axle and I guess I'd have an F350.
Thanks for all the help so far guys.
1) I am talking about the aluminum adapter plate. I wasn't sure if my e40d had it on there or not, but we slid it off anyway, just in case.
2) We were planning on using the black plate - I forgot that, but we haven't torn into the dash yet...just the steering column cover.
3) TC - I remember reading your thread about having to put the spacer in. We've planned on potentially having to do that, but were hoping not to have to do it.
4) I do have cruise now. I'll use all the great info you provided and have to go look at the truck to tell. Like you said - probably easier when you're looking at it.
-One other question that I forgot - We were looking at the key release assembly (push to release the ignition key) on the steering column. Does that mechanism need to be removed from the manual and swapped as well? My auto does not have a "push to release" button, but we figured that it might just be built into the Auto shifter so when you put it in park, it allows you to turn the ignition back and pull the key out. We assume, at this point, that we will have to swap this assembly out.
I'm sure there will be more questions to come.
Oh, and as a side note, we were pretty excited to find that someone had replaced the stock leaf pack on the donor with springs from an F350 (it has 7 leafs in the pack), so I'll be swapping that over to my truck as well. All I need now is a dana 60 Solid front axle and I guess I'd have an F350.
Thanks for all the help so far guys.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 6
From: College Station, TX
Man it looks like you've made a score. If the key release thingy goes into your truck easy I'd put it in. I forgot to look on mine and that truck is long gone.
And yeah, you definitely have to use a backing plate because I believe that's how the starter mounts up but they should be the exact same so use the one in best shape. You can ask William(Talyn) about those breaking...
And yeah, you definitely have to use a backing plate because I believe that's how the starter mounts up but they should be the exact same so use the one in best shape. You can ask William(Talyn) about those breaking...
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 584
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From: Southern West Virginia
Yeah...we felt pretty lucky. We were thinking we were lucky to find an ECLB with the zf5, even if it was an IDI. Then to find out it's a PSD. Then to find out it already has the SMF and HD Clutch. All for $750. And it runs and drives like a champ. It does smoke pretty good though. My father-in-law and I were talking, and he thinks it needs some new rings and maybe a few gaskets and it would be pretty good for a while. So he's going to use the engine now. But for the swap, we don't need the engine.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 115
Yeah, I took the key release out of my donor column and put it on the column that was originally in my truck. I had both columns out, so it was a piece of cake. The column is not difficult to remove, for what it's worth.
I used the adapter plate that was originally on my truck. To be more specific, I didn't even mess with the adapter plate at all. I haven't had any problems driving it so far.
Be careful testing out your cruise control once you get the truck together. It will work, and if your PCM still is programmed for the automatic transmission, your truck will not even realize that the clutch is there. In other words, hitting the clutch will make your engine redline if you are using cruise. Please don't ask me how I know, LOL.
I didn't mess with the starter, either. In fact, I never removed it the whole time. I haven't had any problems with the starter since.
Any questions about the wiring, you're going to want to take to Jacob. I'm pretty dumb when it comes to electricity, so I won't be much help.
I used the adapter plate that was originally on my truck. To be more specific, I didn't even mess with the adapter plate at all. I haven't had any problems driving it so far.
Be careful testing out your cruise control once you get the truck together. It will work, and if your PCM still is programmed for the automatic transmission, your truck will not even realize that the clutch is there. In other words, hitting the clutch will make your engine redline if you are using cruise. Please don't ask me how I know, LOL.
I didn't mess with the starter, either. In fact, I never removed it the whole time. I haven't had any problems with the starter since.
Any questions about the wiring, you're going to want to take to Jacob. I'm pretty dumb when it comes to electricity, so I won't be much help.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 115
Is that what is causing the romping starts? I figured it was bad glowplugs or something. It only does it about 50% of the time for me, and there's always a ton of white smoke when it happens.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 6
From: College Station, TX
That's interesting. I remember Kris's video of it. It was pretty bad. I never had any of that at all.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
e4od to zf5 swap
New user here. I am TyBragg's father-in-law and Iwould like to start by thanking all of you guys for all of the helpful info and tips! Not only with the swap we're doing , but with other projects of mine. I've been turning to you guys for info for a while now but just never joined. When TyBragg told me he joined last night I had to join! If for no reason other than to defend myself from any slander that could be generated from this swap we're doing together!!!LOL Just kidding. Couldn't ask for a better son-in-law, he loves FORDS! This tranny swap has spawned a whole new project for me. My '92 F350 crew cab 4x4 is a 460 gasser with a ZF5. I purchased the truck with intentions of a 12V cummins swap. I already have the cummins and a lot of the disassembly of the truck is done. I have all new or 100% rust free body parts to put it back together with. The only thing I'm keeping from the original body is the cab. Since TyBragg and I scored on the '94.5 PSD for $750, and all he needs is the stuff to do the tranny swap, I'm going PSD BABY!!! I'm selling the cummins and going Friday to buy a rebuilt ZF5 to bolt up to the 7.3 and start guttin! After TyBragg's tranny swap is done of course. Wish us luck guys and THANKS!