GearWrench. Best Tool Invention EVAR (well, recently, anyway). I remember their predecessors from the '70s-'80s, those ratcheting box wrenches with the very coarse ratchet pawls, and huge box heads, and the action was awful (they'd always jam). The GearWrench brand that's been out the last 6 years or so is light-years better.

Someone tackling this solo _might_ be able to do it from above with a properly placed mirror on the floor below.

It'd be fun to leave the auto dipstick in place after the transplant, just to mess with anyone servicing the truck in the future....

 

You have the same steering wheel cover as is in my truck.

 

Yup, I remember that one. God, that was miserable!

 

By the way, I didn't need to remove the accelerator pedal. I had the steering column out, though.

 

I had those same running boards on my truck when I bought it, although they went fender well to fender well.

Looking good. Great time to do a 3" DP with the trans out

 

And then some!!!

 

Ok. So the tranny is in! We started what that yesterday...got it in with no real problems. The only real hold-up was getting the top cross-member bolts down through the top of the frame. They are tough, as many of you know and I have read on here before, because you can't fit them between the bottom of the cab and the top of the frame without moving something. Luckily, the FIL has a porta-power, so we got it out and were able to quickly spread the cab away from the frame enough to slide the bolts down through the hole. I don't know how you could get them in there any other way, unless you unbolted the cab and used a pry bar to lift it up. Here's a pic of the trans in, then on with it completely installed including the cross-member.





Then put the t-case on. No problems there. Now it was the moment of truth for the drive shafts. I read that if you used the 4407 Tcase, which is what I have in my good truck, that the drive shafts out of one with the zf5 and 1356 Tcase will be short. They are - exactly as we read before - almost exaclty 1". I think BuckHammer or redman84 had the same problem, as I'm sure others have. We thought about it and look at it for a while deciding what to do. We thought that we'd go ahead and pull the drive shaft up so it connects, since it has the slip yoke right behind the carrier bearing. Then we took some measurements to see how much travel we had left in the slip yoke. Then we thought about putting the spacer between the flange on the tcase and the drive shafts. We weren't entirely comfortable with that - there is a center piece on the ds that actually goes into the flange to hold it centered. Without this connection (with a spacer), all the force is placed on the bolts, which seems like they might possibly get wallered out over time and the ds would flop around at that joint.

So, we decided that today, we will pull the 4407 out and put in the 1356 from the donor and be done with it. Plenty of folks run the 1356's without any problems. I've read that there's really no difference as far as performce goes, especially using the truck for normal things and not as a performance truck. We'll do that this evening, then the drive shafts should hook right back up, after we swap back out the flange connection with the original slip yoke on the drive shaft.

Then it was time for the electrical connections. Got the manual harness plugged in from the donor, then decided to see if we were lucky and it would crank as is. Nope. So we went back to the knowledge we found on here on various posts. Ultimately, we determined that there was only two wires that needed to be jumped. Rather than messing with the harness, it seemed easier to do the connection on the PCM side of the main plug (the one under the hood on the driver's side right in front of the brake booster and the clutch master cylinder). There are two red/blue wires that go to pin 4 and pin 12, and we determined that those need to be connected to complete the circuit so it can crank using the key. We made a temporary connection between the two as a test, and voila! It starts. Here's a few pics, one showing the location, and one showing the detailed connection we made:





Bad news. It lopes. I've seen this before, but not with everyone.

The question: Will flashing the PCM to manual fix this? I'm calling the ford dealership today to see if they can do it. I know some of you have experienced this problem. What fixed it?

More tonight.

 

Looking good. Generally when the engine lopes at idle it is because the PCM is "confused" beciause it is not seeing a sensor that it is looking for. IMO the lope at idle is because the PCM is looking for the transmission range sensor and doesn't see it. You should be able to test this theory by plugging in the sensor and starting the truck. If that fixes it, then you can either try to find a work around or just have the PCM re-flashed to a manual PCM. At this point I wonder what would happen if the TRS was plugged in and just fastened out of the way under the truck. Might be worth a shot.

 

Redman84 - Did you ever start this thread? I may need some of this info soon.

 

Ok, so I just talked to my local ford dealership. They WILL NOT flash the automatic PCM to manual. They guy acted like they had never heard of it before, and said you can't do that. I said well, whatever. Then I called back to ask if they could reprogram the MANUAL PCM to have cruise control functionality (my truck has it, my donor does not). This was a different guy, and he said - "Honestly, we've been running into a lot of stuff like that, and we do one thing and it messes up something else, so it's really a liability issue..." He said the only thing they can do is program the PCM to it's VIN, that's it.

So...any suggestions?

 

Sounds like you don't want that dealer working on your PCM. I don't think they know what they're doing. Use the PCM from the donor truck if you have it. As far as I know, there is no difference in PCM programming between the two. The only thing necessary to add cruise to a truck is the steering wheel pad with the buttons, AFAIK.

 

would getting a re-flash by one of the Tuners help solve the issue? I'm not sure if their re-flash would but I assume it would...

 

Yes that would be an alternative as well. DP Tuner will re-flash your PCM with a custom tune for around $100 I believe.

 

I had my PCM flashed by DP Tuner. I don't remember why that was my choice but I'm happy with it. I can't remember exactly the total cost but it was under $100 for sure.
Yessir. Here ya go.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11330784

 

Well, if I use the PCM from the manual, which I have (from the donor truck), will the cruise work when plugged up, if it is equipped on my steering wheel (which it is)? I guess cruise is not that big of a deal, but it will bug me with the buttons on the steering wheel and them not working.

So, I think tonight we're going to pull the manual wiring harness and try to do any mods on the auto harness to see if that makes a difference with the TRS installed (to stop the romping starts).

I've been scouring the internet for a wiring harness from the PCM to the tranny for both the e40d and the zf5 so we can compare what controls what. Does anyone have this? Thanks.

Tyler