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E4OD to ZF5 - In Process

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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 07:51 PM
  #76  
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redman84
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Why not just leave the switch on the pushrod? Then just use the auto jumper when you drive it, and plug in the switch when she drives it.
Funny you should say that. I was messing around under my dash a few minutes ago and saw it still on there so just left it.
Originally Posted by madpogue
I always bypass this switch on my passenger cars. On at least three occasions, I've been able to "push" the car out of harm's way with the starter when they've broken down.
Nice. Gotta love the manuals.
Originally Posted by madpogue
** Note: whether you jumper it or use the switch, you can unplug it for a poor-man's kill-switch when you park it in, er, sub-optimally secure locations.
Never did think of it that way. I doubt a would-be thief would ever look down there.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 10:23 PM
  #77  
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Ok. So it's done.

We removed the 4407 t case and put the 1356 from the donor in. We decided this was probably the best idea, until we can find a rear drive shaft from a zf5 with the 4407, ECLB. At that point, we may switch it all back out, but we can cross that bridge when we get there. At any rate, we got all the drivetrain installed.

Now for the PCM. We decided to go ahead and give the '94 PCM a try. When we started it up...voila - no romping. The engine did sound different though, if that doesn't sound crazy. Unfortunately, when we finished everything up got it out on the road...no cruise control. I guess we'll have to deal with this later. The 4x4 lights are also not working, for some reason. I think we're going to try to replace the switch on the tcase and see if that might be bad. Otherwise, we don't know why this would not be working. Any ideas?

For the steering column cover, we used the top piece from the donor (since this part has the key release from the manual) and the bottom piece from my truck, which as the tilt-wheel function. Best of both worlds with no mods.

I think that's about it. We calculated up the hours spent on the project: Including tearing down the donor, tearing down mine, and reinstallation - about 28 hours. Not too bad, we thought. Two 7 hour Sundays, and 3 evenings. We'll still have a little troubleshooting to do with the 4x4 lights and the cruise control (i've read that it will work...somehow). But everything is back in the truck and it is running great.

I will post pictures later. I have to resize them so I can get them on here.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 10:49 PM
  #78  
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Oldsmoky92
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Hey nice work! Im glad i did the swap. This cruise control issue has got to be simple, im gonna try unpluging my chip and see what happens. Reason is i believe the cruise working prior but im not for sure.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 06:47 AM
  #79  
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No cruise control huh? Guess I better warm up that crow before I eat it.....

I might, just MIGHT wait until you get the issue with the 4x4 lights sorted out though. No sense eating my foot if I don't have to.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 08:51 AM
  #80  
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So...I was reading another thread started by redman84 ( https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...vs-manual.html ) ...and I'm wondering if this will work in my application:

"Just got this from Jody Tipton:

"There is a communication line between the pcm and clutch position switch which even if hooked up goes to a different pin on the manual pcm.
Pin 29 for the auto harness has a tan and white wire which hooks to the OD cancel switch. On the manual pcm, that same wire is for the clutch
position switch. If you take the Tan/WH wire from the cancel switch and connect it to the tan/LB wire from the clutch position switch,
effeectively you give the pcm back the signal to cancel/engage the speed control.

The other part will be taken care of when you install the different transmission harness." "

I'm thinking that this has to work...possibly.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 11:46 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by redman84
Thanks for this redman84. I didn't see this before. Very good info that I will need tonight!
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 12:14 PM
  #82  
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So now, on a different note, by swapping out the Auto PCM for a Manual, would a person also swap out the harness from the main to the trans as well? (Swapping out E4OD harness for ZF)..
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 02:48 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Midwest Dually
So now, on a different note, by swapping out the Auto PCM for a Manual, would a person also swap out the harness from the main to the trans as well? (Swapping out E4OD harness for ZF)..
Well, that's what we did. We took the both the PCM and the trans wiring harness from the donor truck (the one with the zf5). Others have modified the auto wiring harness, but we just used the one from the manual.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 03:06 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
I might, just MIGHT wait until you get the issue with the 4x4 lights sorted out though. No sense eating my foot if I don't have to.
Nah man. Go ahead and start eating.
Originally Posted by TyBragg
Unfortunately, when we finished everything up got it out on the road...no cruise control. I guess we'll have to deal with this later. The 4x4 lights are also not working, for some reason. I think we're going to try to replace the switch on the tcase and see if that might be bad. Otherwise, we don't know why this would not be working. Any ideas?
I have an idea. And it isn't the t case switch.
This is post #4 in this thread. See the bold, blue words this time.
Originally Posted by TyBragg
-Front and rear driveshafts
-Transfer Case (1356, but I think I'm going to use my 4407 in my '97)
-ZF5, clutch, flywheel, and big spacer thingy behind flywheel (don't know what it's called)
If you're talking about the aluminum adapter plate, you don't need it. It's the same as what's already on your truck. If there's a spacer directly between the flywheel and crank it's out of place. The flywheel typically bolts directly to the motor.
-Wiring Harness
-Crossmember
-Master/Slave Cylinder
-Pedal Assembly
-Center Hump ( it just unbolts) and shifter
-Steering Column Cover
-Starter (not sure if we need it or not)
Nope. Universal fit for 7.3L PSDs(and maybe older IDIs too) although the super duty ones are different(and better).

Add to the list the black plate from the donor to replace your PRND21 indicator.

1) Will my 4407 TC work in lieu of the 1356?
Sure will. It may connect to the driveshaft different that the 1356. If so, just take the flange off of the front of your original drive shaft and put it on front of new driveshaft. Still may be some spacing issues to resolve since it is not a slip joint. I did this and had exactly one inch to fill between t case mount and driveshaft.
2) I've read about some wiring modifications that need to be made. Does anyone have any good documentations or diagrams of this? I'm not sure where the mods need to be made. (To get the Cruise, Back Up Lights, etc to work and get the neutral safety switch to be operational. I think the neutral safety switch will just plug into existing plugs, but I've read that guys can't initially start the truck with the key until mods are made.)
If you have cruise now and keep your PCM it will not be effected. Once/if you flash it to a manual then you will have some wiring to address but not a huge deal. Your reverse light should already work when you put the manual harness on. Your 4x4 indicators probably won't work and your truck won't fire with the key. Moving three wires in the manual harness will fix this no problem. If you want neutral safety then you just have to remove the cap on the harness under the dash and put on a clutch starter switch from a parts store or your donor. I personally like being able to start my truck without the clutch in but there is risk involved.
It's literally all plug and play until a PCM reflash with the exception of moving the three wires in the harness which takes all of 15 miinutes. I'm not sure if there are any wiring issues if you use a manual PCM.
3) Will the PCM from the Auto work? From what I've read, it will ,but does it need to be "flashed" to a manual?
It will be just fine. Mine ran better when flashed to manual but I attributed most of that to the tuning I also had done. Did have to splice some pins to get the cruise to work after the flash though.
Maybe Joseph wrote it down when I told him the other day but I believe it is positions 15 & 16 in the manual trans harness that are the 4x4 lights. Move them respectively into positions 5 & 6 and you'll have them again.
To move wires in the trans harness you: pop out the red thing inside the plug w a small flathead or o ring pick or something, pop up the plate on the back of the plug that the wires run through, back the plate up the wires some to give you room, back the rubber insert up the wires toward the plate, pull the wires you need to move out through the rubber and plate, drill new holes in the plate where they are going to, push them through the hole down into the plug, rubber back in, plate back on, and red retainer back in. You can put a little RTV in the holes left over form where the wires used to be. This is how I moved the red/lt blue jumper wire but I think you spliced it in the main harness.
Originally Posted by TyBragg
I think that's about it. We calculated up the hours spent on the project: Including tearing down the donor, tearing down mine, and reinstallation - about 28 hours. Not too bad, we thought. Two 7 hour Sundays, and 3 evenings. We'll still have a little troubleshooting to do with the 4x4 lights and the cruise control (i've read that it will work...somehow). But everything is back in the truck and it is running great.
Make sure and read all of the cruise stuff I wrote and not just Jody's info. There was some stuff in the diagram I looked at that made me use a combo of what jody and Ryan said. Also since we still don't have any concrete info on what all, if any, bearing the PCM has on cc there is still the possibility that your cc won't work with the 94 PCM.
Originally Posted by Midwest Dually
So now, on a different note, by swapping out the Auto PCM for a Manual, would a person also swap out the harness from the main to the trans as well? (Swapping out E4OD harness for ZF)..
I'd do that in a manual swap anyway. If you don't then you won't have reverese lights. OR you will have to have them all the time and would still have to address the starting from the key issue if you leave the E4OD harness in anyway because you'd have to leave it in the R position on the switch at the trans end of the harness to get lights. Check out post #5 on the first page of this thread for a little info on that.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 03:21 PM
  #85  
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Wouldn't it be simpler just to swap the whole transmission wiring harness into the truck if he has it there in his donor truck? I really don't like the taste of crow....
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 03:40 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
Wouldn't it be simpler just to swap the whole transmission wiring harness into the truck if he has it there in his donor truck? I really don't like the taste of crow....
Lol. Yeah I've had it quite a few times. I prefer humble pie.

Yes. Use the donor harness that goes with the ZFs. But you HAVE to move wires around one way or another to make it start with the key and have 4x4 indicators. You can spend a while wiring in all kinds of ways to start it and all or just take the 15 minutes it is to move the wires in the trans harness head and use the keys and know what the t case is doing.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 03:48 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
Wouldn't it be simpler just to swap the whole transmission wiring harness into the truck if he has it there in his donor truck? I really don't like the taste of crow....
That's what we did.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 03:59 PM
  #88  
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When i did my swap the 4x4 lights worked, it started with the key and the cruise worked for awhile, the BU lights did not work. My rig is a 95 donor was a 93.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 04:49 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by redman84
Maybe Joseph wrote it down when I told him the other day but I believe it is positions 15 & 16 in the manual trans harness that are the 4x4 lights. Move them respectively into positions 5 & 6 and you'll have them again.
I am looking at this right now, and the backup lights are in positions 15 and 16 on the trans harness, and there are no wires currently in positions 5 and 6. However, on the truck side of the plug, there's only one wire in position 5, and there's nothing going into pin 6. Will this still work?
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 05:44 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by TyBragg
I am looking at this right now, and the backup lights are in positions 15 and 16 on the trans harness, and there are no wires currently in positions 5 and 6. However, on the truck side of the plug, there's only one wire in position 5, and there's nothing going into pin 6. Will this still work?
I used a multimeter and tested the auto harness for continuity between each small end(trans and t case) for the matching wire at the main end to see what position I needed to move the ones in the ZF harness to. You can try that. I'll go outside in a bit and see on mine the exact locations.
 
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