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Actually the atuo PCM's have additional hardware, I assume for shifting, that is not in the manual PCM's. You can see with the boxes of each open and compare.
OK. I've also heard things about the cruise control functioning differently between an auto and manual PCM. Jody said in an email that the auto reads from the ABS and brake pedal but the manual reads from the clutch and that if I get re-burned with manual programming and don't change some wiring(after doing a 5 speed swap) my cruise won't work. We are playing phone tag and I haven't gotten to actually talk to him yet. Does that just mean that I need my clutch starter interlock wired up properly and remove the jumper from it being an auto?
OK. I've also heard things about the cruise control functioning differently between an auto and manual PCM. Jody said in an email that the auto reads from the ABS and brake pedal but the manual reads from the clutch and that if I get re-burned with manual programming and don't change some wiring(after doing a 5 speed swap) my cruise won't work. We are playing phone tag and I haven't gotten to actually talk to him yet. Does that just mean that I need my clutch starter interlock wired up properly and remove the jumper from it being an auto?
I'd like to know the answer to this as well. I'm planning an e4od to zf 5 swap for the near future.
"There is a communication line between the pcm and clutch position switch which even if hooked up goes to a different pin on the manual pcm.
Pin 29 for the auto harness has a tan and white wire which hooks to the OD cancel switch. On the manual pcm, that same wire is for the clutch
position switch. If you take the Tan/WH wire from the cancel switch and connect it to the tan/LB wire from the clutch position switch,
effeectively you give the pcm back the signal to cancel/engage the speed control.
The other part will be taken care of when you install the different transmission harness."
-- "Pin 31 should be hot all the time, thats the brake pressure switch black and yellow.
Pin 92 should be hot when on the brake and not otherwise, that brake on/off switch and is lt green.
Pin 29 looks like it needs to be hot all the time as well. Thats the clutch pedal position switch input/nuetral safety. On an Auto the wire should be tan and on a manual looks like tan and lt blue but both go to the same pin.
if all those voltages check out it should work as long as you have a speed input."
-- "It was wire 29...I added voltage and everything works including the safety switches....it is so nice to have cruise!!!"
-- "Pin 31 should be hot all the time, thats the brake pressure switch black and yellow.
Pin 92 should be hot when on the brake and not otherwise, that brake on/off switch and is lt green.
Pin 29 looks like it needs to be hot all the time as well. Thats the clutch pedal position switch input/nuetral safety. On an Auto the wire should be tan and on a manual looks like tan and lt blue but both go to the same pin.
if all those voltages check out it should work as long as you have a speed input."
-- "It was wire 29...I added voltage and everything works including the safety switches....it is so nice to have cruise!!!"
Jim,
What is the context on the guy above's problem? Did he swap PCMs or what? I did full auto to manual swap but kept the auto PCM and just had it burned to manual. Now I'm working on getting the cruise back.
I'm looking at wiring diagrams in my Chilton's manual. Says it is enigine wiring for a 1994-1996 7.3L vin F. It looks like Pin 91, the black and yellow, is always hot except when the brake is pushed in. If I successfully splice 29 into 91 should I be in business or how did this other fella add voltage to make everything work?
Jim,
What is the context on the guy above's problem? Did he swap PCMs or what? I did full auto to manual swap but kept the auto PCM and just had it burned to manual. Now I'm working on getting the cruise back.
I'm looking at wiring diagrams in my Chilton's manual. Says it is enigine wiring for a 1994-1996 7.3L vin F. It looks like Pin 91, the black and yellow, is always hot except when the brake is pushed in. If I successfully splice 29 into 91 should I be in business or how did this other fella add voltage to make everything work?
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