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PCM: Auto vs. Manual

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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 10:34 AM
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PCM: Auto vs. Manual

Does anyone truly know the difference between PCMs for an auto vs a manual? I've heard several things and would like to know what is true.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 11:15 AM
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Physically there is no difference.

Software wise is the differences.
Things to check for transmission on the auto, which isn't there on the manual of course.

Different fueling patterns for the auto vs manual too I think, due to the trans.
And trans TC lock up stuff on the auto.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 11:29 AM
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This might help? I donno. Full list with description anyways

PCM Codes - 1994-1997 Power Stroke FAQ
 
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Talyn
Physically there is no difference....
Actually the atuo PCM's have additional hardware, I assume for shifting, that is not in the manual PCM's. You can see with the boxes of each open and compare.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 04:51 PM
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OK. I've also heard things about the cruise control functioning differently between an auto and manual PCM. Jody said in an email that the auto reads from the ABS and brake pedal but the manual reads from the clutch and that if I get re-burned with manual programming and don't change some wiring(after doing a 5 speed swap) my cruise won't work. We are playing phone tag and I haven't gotten to actually talk to him yet. Does that just mean that I need my clutch starter interlock wired up properly and remove the jumper from it being an auto?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by redman84
OK. I've also heard things about the cruise control functioning differently between an auto and manual PCM. Jody said in an email that the auto reads from the ABS and brake pedal but the manual reads from the clutch and that if I get re-burned with manual programming and don't change some wiring(after doing a 5 speed swap) my cruise won't work. We are playing phone tag and I haven't gotten to actually talk to him yet. Does that just mean that I need my clutch starter interlock wired up properly and remove the jumper from it being an auto?
I'd like to know the answer to this as well. I'm planning an e4od to zf 5 swap for the near future.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 05:57 AM
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This was covered in another forum, I'll see if I can find it.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by DZL JIM
This was covered in another forum, I'll see if I can find it.
That would be awesome. Thank you Jim!
 
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 11:24 AM
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Just got this from Jody Tipton:

"There is a communication line between the pcm and clutch position switch which even if hooked up goes to a different pin on the manual pcm.
Pin 29 for the auto harness has a tan and white wire which hooks to the OD cancel switch. On the manual pcm, that same wire is for the clutch
position switch. If you take the Tan/WH wire from the cancel switch and connect it to the tan/LB wire from the clutch position switch,
effeectively you give the pcm back the signal to cancel/engage the speed control.

The other part will be taken care of when you install the different transmission harness."
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 02:38 PM
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thanks for the info, this will save me so much time and headache!
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 08:24 AM
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I'll add, this is what I was told:

-- "Pin 31 should be hot all the time, thats the brake pressure switch black and yellow.

Pin 92 should be hot when on the brake and not otherwise, that brake on/off switch and is lt green.

Pin 29 looks like it needs to be hot all the time as well. Thats the clutch pedal position switch input/nuetral safety. On an Auto the wire should be tan and on a manual looks like tan and lt blue but both go to the same pin.

if all those voltages check out it should work as long as you have a speed input."

-- "It was wire 29...I added voltage and everything works including the safety switches....it is so nice to have cruise!!!"
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DZL JIM
I'll add, this is what I was told:

-- "Pin 31 should be hot all the time, thats the brake pressure switch black and yellow.

Pin 92 should be hot when on the brake and not otherwise, that brake on/off switch and is lt green.

Pin 29 looks like it needs to be hot all the time as well. Thats the clutch pedal position switch input/nuetral safety. On an Auto the wire should be tan and on a manual looks like tan and lt blue but both go to the same pin.

if all those voltages check out it should work as long as you have a speed input."

-- "It was wire 29...I added voltage and everything works including the safety switches....it is so nice to have cruise!!!"
Jim,
What is the context on the guy above's problem? Did he swap PCMs or what? I did full auto to manual swap but kept the auto PCM and just had it burned to manual. Now I'm working on getting the cruise back.

I'm looking at wiring diagrams in my Chilton's manual. Says it is enigine wiring for a 1994-1996 7.3L vin F. It looks like Pin 91, the black and yellow, is always hot except when the brake is pushed in. If I successfully splice 29 into 91 should I be in business or how did this other fella add voltage to make everything work?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2021 | 06:36 PM
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Reburn

Originally Posted by redman84
Jim,
What is the context on the guy above's problem? Did he swap PCMs or what? I did full auto to manual swap but kept the auto PCM and just had it burned to manual. Now I'm working on getting the cruise back.

I'm looking at wiring diagrams in my Chilton's manual. Says it is enigine wiring for a 1994-1996 7.3L vin F. It looks like Pin 91, the black and yellow, is always hot except when the brake is pushed in. If I successfully splice 29 into 91 should I be in business or how did this other fella add voltage to make everything work?


Who did your reburn from auto to manual?
 
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