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My 97 250 HD has the "4X4" and "airbag" on the (as you called it) lens and it has NEVER had either one..
The clusters will be set up to cover most all of the models that use it but they only put bulbs/sockets and wiring in what each particular vehicle uses.
I realize that. But, as I mentioned...I thought a computer-controlled EFI truck should have had the check engine light. My truck has the 4wd and Lo Range spots too...even has some diesel related spots I think..I just thought it should have had the CEL
I realize that. But, as I mentioned...I thought a computer-controlled EFI truck should have had the check engine light. My truck has the 4wd and Lo Range spots too...even has some diesel related spots I think..I just thought it should have had the CEL
I'm sure Ford had a reason, most likely related to money and expense... I would imagine they incorporated it at the same time as other changes were incorporated and doing it all at once made better economic sense for them.
My 1986 Tempo has TBI and an OBD1 computer but doesn't have the CEL, whatever that's worth.
This is actually pretty cool cuz I need to pass yearly emissions tests, and there's no place for the testing-place droids to plug in their code reader so all they can do is look under the hood and then do a tailpipe test on a dyno.
I've always just counted blinks of a test light to see what it's complaining about.
Hahah I never thought of it like that. I mean, I don't have emissions here but that WOULD get around it...nice!
On a bad note...the surging idle is back, along with the same 3 codes. I'm kinda wondering if I don't have a bad EEC...codes 23, 67 and 95 keep recurring...
23 = Closed throttle TPS voltage higher or lower than expected.
I will bet you that is directly related to your engine idle problems.
Ford lists the codes in order of highest priority (most important) first, so I would focus on that one problem and go from there.
I'm assuming you have cleaned the electrical contacts for the TPS, checked all the wiring for obvious (and even not obvious, by unwrapping harnesses) degradation problems?
That's where I would begin.
A TPS can be tested with an ohm meter, I would replace it if it tested bad.
Sorry, man, I forget what you've done already, and this thread later got off track it seems....
Yea, I updated the original thread (Erratic Idle Problems Are BACK! Please Help!) If you care to read...
I didn't know about the priority thing. And yes, I bet the TPS code is the main problem too. I haven't tested it with a multimeter yet. The other day I was going to, but when I hooked the battery back up, she ran so good I didn't bother. Like I said, it's a new TPS, and the wiring "looked" ok, but I'll look closer/test the TPS. Thank you so much for your help!
I had a surging idle on my 302, it would wind to 3,000rpms then itwould idle down to about 600. So if the codes lead you nowhere, check for vacuum leaks. (I checked mine no leaks anywhere.) The surging means it is getting unmetered air from somewhere i.e. vac leak but mine ended up being the throttle body, the bushings were wore enough that the plates would stick. I went to the jy any found one and problem solved. Oh and my iac was ok as was my tps.
So clean your iac
Check your tps
Check for vac leaks
If it spuradically revs between shifts, its most likely the tb bushings
Thanks bud! Yea, I had an '88 Mustang GT with the 5.0 HO/5-speed that had a high/surging idle and it was a bad intake gasket. So I'll definitely look into that. The TPS is new as is the IAC...but I know that doesn't mean a whole lot, lol
Is there a way to wire in one? You could wire it into the check engine ground on the EEC or the self-test plug, couldn't you? Just run a light to the gauge cluster with an ignition-switched 12V+ and allow the EEC to ground/illuminate the light?
My '87 with the EFI 302 did not come wired for the check engine light either. I think it was an '87 thing across the board. I got mine working by cutting the wire and moving the pin in the cluster connector from the "EMISS" light (the one that's on a timer) circuit, along with the bulb and socket to the Check Engine circuit. I had an old mustang chassis harness that I robbed pins and wire pigtails from and added them to the main firewall connector. I connected from the firewall to the pigtail on the cluster, then under the hood I spliced into the STO wire in the self test connector on the engine harness. The Check Engine light now works as it should.
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