When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I love project midnight updates. 2 questions: now that you have the bed off can you take a few photos of the crossmembers under and from top. I am wondering if it is worth it to take my bed off and treat mine, but not knowing the condition of the tops It's hard to decide, the bottoms look kind of crappy but if yours do to and it is just some bottom rust I might not bother. second question: does that trailer have ramps or a beavertail?
Will get some pics for you tomorrow as the truck is at work.
It has a set of ramps that slide in under the back. No beaver tail.
Or the flat deck loaded up to bring to work. Not sure how I'm going to mount the 8' deck I place of my shortbox tho lol going to have to get creative and I think im going to replace the boards while I'm at it.
Any suggestions on what do do for the gas fillers?
The gas filler tubes are pretty flexible, so I might just lower the deck on and see where they land. then clamp them to the underside of the flatbed with strap metal to hold them in place. If they don't stick out too much from the side you wont have to size them and if you ever wanted to go back to the old bed they would fit. as far as the boards go, I would just treat them with one thin coat of linseed and two coats of boiled linseed oil. wont bring the color back but it'll shed water for quite a while. As far as mounting the new bed?????? you have what 18" or so of overhang on the back??? This may sound stupid buy it seems it would be easier to resize the bed that it would be to resize the frame rails/whatever. So long as your Polaris fits on who cares? If you ever sell it you would be left with a truck completely customized to haul it so I would customize the bed rather than the truck.
thinking more about the filler tubes, I would just buy some flexible tubing and make new ones, keep the old ones if you go back to the old bed. attack the new ones to the bottom of the new bed with some strapping metal, a small drill bit and some self tapping screws.
My issue is I need the full 8' for the rzr to fits. An thats pushing it. The short box sits at 7'1" overall length and the deck is 8'3" overall length so it will be 14" difference which might not be too bad. Will have to figure out how o either move the factory bumper back or make one to sit under the deck. Possibly a piece of C channel bolted to the frame to extend the bumper to the end of the deck. Then the hitch will sit just under the end of the deck which will work for me.
Maybe you can get some square channel or even round channel that would fit INSIDE the rear "ears" of the frame. I think there is too much stuff, mounted outside, like wire harnesses for trailer and rear lights and such to go outside the frame.
got the deck all mocked up and support welded in, just need to bolt it on and see if it holds the rzr
still not sure on the rear bumoer tho... thinking it might have to go ....also thinking about flipping the tube on the hitch so the receiver is on top of the bar to bring it up a bit higher
i think im going to spray the boards on the deck black once finished too.... and still gotta paint the front bumper black
ok here we go
without rzr it measures 37 1/4" from ground to bottom of deck
have to load it backwards as most of the weight is at the back of the rzr
dropped to 34" so dropped 3 1/4" with the 1000lb rzr on it.
all strapped down.
Some states (like pa) have strict bumper height laws. And some inspection places frown upon non factory bumpers for some reason (probably on lifted trucks though)
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.