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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 09:32 PM
  #166  
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Check some junkyards. We got some for my dad's F250 off of a rolled truck in a junkyard.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 09:41 PM
  #167  
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Oh I've been looking. I can't even find any use ones online
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 09:56 PM
  #168  
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Ok I just can't win... The 6k960 belt is too short barely and the next size up is a 6k968 which I can JUST slide on by hand with out moving the tensioner... Looks like I'll be shimming the alternator out with a few washers to take up the slack....
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 11:37 PM
  #169  
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Well I ended up shimming the alternator with a 1/2" nut under each bolt and sofar so good.


I seem to have a ticking sound you can hear in the first video below anyone know how I might be able to get rid of the ticking?
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/8cMP3RaZMkQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

And another clip of my exhaust now
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ilniiIyn-Ac" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 11:53 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by Midnite1987
I seem to have a ticking sound you can hear in the first video below anyone know how I might be able to get rid of the ticking?
I remember having a ticking noise a while back after having the timing chain replaced, and it turned out to be the EGR tube. Had a hole in it. Shop replaced it for me free of charge and voila, no more ticking!


And what does removing the smog stuff and bypassing the idler pulley benefit?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:20 AM
  #171  
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dont know if removing the smog stuff will bennifit anything more then less stuff in the engine bay.... lol the hoses were tight between the alternator and the inner fender and the block was hittinf the firewall on the back side. when i pulled the bracket to remove the broken tensioner bolt i had to cut a hose clamp on the air piping and just decided to remove it all together.

now bypassing the idler gave me the best wrap of the belt on the other pulleys, with still using the idler the tensioner didnt do much. i could have gotten a idler for the air pump location but im cheap lol.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:37 AM
  #172  
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Oh alright. Thanks for clearing that up haha.

Good luck finding the cause of that ticking noise.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:44 AM
  #173  
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i say check the 3/8' pipe plug for leaks, doesnt look like theres any other lines to check.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:52 AM
  #174  
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Yeah I'll check that one tomorrow if that is it not sure how else to seal it
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:59 AM
  #175  
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my dad (88dually) crimped an brazed the end of his
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 02:01 AM
  #176  
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I tried to pinch the piece I cut off and that crap is HARD lol
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 02:09 AM
  #177  
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I'm thinking possibly some Jb weld around the plug if that is where it's comming from. I'll take a closer look tomorrow
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 02:20 AM
  #178  
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jb welds a good idea. put it on the threads as you re-screw it
 
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 11:13 PM
  #179  
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well went out to look at that pipe and the ticking is gone... hmmm...

on another note i got a different belt yet again . i ended up with a 94.5" belt and even found a gatorback one for $18 and i changed the routing on it again back to the stock routing using the idler just without the air pump in place. and back up and running again with no squealing



and got a couple small loads of dirt today so of course had to play in it sorry bout the quality
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ntSLfDVekWk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 08:08 AM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by Midnite1987



Those Goodyear Gatorback's are one of the best belts on the market. If available, that is the only belt that I use on any of my vehicles. I don't know if it is still available or not, but they used to be covered by a lifetime warranty.
 
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